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Old 06-04-2022, 03:18 PM   #1
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Default RT190 Dometic Fridge issues

Hi all,
Trying to figure out my Dometic Fridge operation in my 2001 Roadtrek.
I have the installation and operating instructions for the fridge.
I don't have the wiring diagram for this Roadtrek.
The RV was checked out before I bought it last year, at an RV center.
Haven't used it much, and never used the fridge.
The RV center said it worked fine on Propane and 12v, but for 120v either they didn't test it or it didn't work, the sheet is blank for that test.

Plugged it into house AC power, set Dometic on AC, Cooling level to 4 - nothing. Checked AC outlets in the camper, all working.

Set Dometic to 12v, with the coach battery circuit turned on - nothing.

Have checked the fuse panel in the RV, all fuses good.
Have looked at wiring in back of fridge but with no wiring diagram, hard to tell if everything is as it should be.

Questions:
1. does the 12v setting on the Dometic operate when the engine is working (i.e. meant for driving down the road)?
2. any idea why the AC setting does not seem to work?

Thanks.
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Old 06-04-2022, 04:03 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rstl99 View Post
Hi all,
Trying to figure out my Dometic Fridge operation in my 2001 Roadtrek.
I have the installation and operating instructions for the fridge.
I don't have the wiring diagram for this Roadtrek.
The RV was checked out before I bought it last year, at an RV center.
Haven't used it much, and never used the fridge.
The RV center said it worked fine on Propane and 12v, but for 120v either they didn't test it or it didn't work, the sheet is blank for that test.

Plugged it into house AC power, set Dometic on AC, Cooling level to 4 - nothing. Checked AC outlets in the camper, all working.

Set Dometic to 12v, with the coach battery circuit turned on - nothing.

Have checked the fuse panel in the RV, all fuses good.
Have looked at wiring in back of fridge but with no wiring diagram, hard to tell if everything is as it should be.

Questions:
1. does the 12v setting on the Dometic operate when the engine is working (i.e. meant for driving down the road)?
2. any idea why the AC setting does not seem to work?

Thanks.
The 12dc setting works off the house battery whether driving or not. Check for dc at the connecting block near the refer.

Not sure, but the refrigerator is probably just plugged into a 110ac socket. Follow the refer cord to the socket, and test the socket with a what? light bulb, multi-meter.....
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Old 06-04-2022, 04:30 PM   #3
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As Bud said: check the specific AC outlet that the fridge is plugged into.

Remember that the fridge will still take hours to cool down. In Phoenix mine can take 4-5 hours before I can put my hand in the freezer and feel that the back is getting cold.

What model is yours? I do have some information and wiring diagrams on the early models (as mine is original in a 1997 PW).

glenn
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Old 06-04-2022, 05:37 PM   #4
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Thanks guys for clarifying about 12v source, and time required to get some cooling to happen. I just figured I'd hear a noise or something, but nothing... Maybe I'll just connect house AC to the camper and let the fridge run on 12v setting for a few hours and see what happens.

About fridge and AC, kind of hard to see what's going on with the wiring in behind, but I'll try to make some sense of it and take some measurements. There's also some a fridge wiring diagram on a metal plate that seems stuck inside so can't easily see what it says.

Oh well, by figuring all this out I'll much better know that part of the RV's electrical circuits, which is always a good thing.

Thanks again.
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Old 06-04-2022, 05:55 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by rstl99 View Post
Thanks guys for clarifying about 12v source, and time required to get some cooling to happen. I just figured I'd hear a noise or something, but nothing... Maybe I'll just connect house AC to the camper and let the fridge run on 12v setting for a few hours and see what happens.

About fridge and AC, kind of hard to see what's going on with the wiring in behind, but I'll try to make some sense of it and take some measurements. There's also some a fridge wiring diagram on a metal plate that seems stuck inside so can't easily see what it says.

Oh well, by figuring all this out I'll much better know that part of the RV's electrical circuits, which is always a good thing.

Thanks again.
You may have what some call 'idiot lights' or something like that. LED's that indicate the voltage state of your house battery(s). No shore power, just turn the fridge to dc, the voltage drop will be a LOT. You'll see it!

A multi meter can be used to do the same, kind of a necessity with an rv. dc will not make the heat that propane or ac will. Many of us run down the road using propane or ac with an inverter, not dc.

Have fun with your new B.

Bud
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Old 06-04-2022, 05:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bud View Post
You may have what some call 'idiot lights' or something like that. LED's that indicate the voltage state of your house battery(s). No shore power, just turn the fridge to dc, the voltage drop will be a LOT. You'll see it!

A multi meter can be used to do the same, kind of a necessity with an rv. dc will not make the heat that propane or ac will. Many of us run down the road using propane or ac with an inverter, not dc.

Have fun with your new B.

Bud
Don't like it when I have to quote myself. I meant to be more explicit. You don't have to wait on cold. If the voltage does not drop Now, the fridge is not heating. If the light bulb does not light, the fridge is not heating.
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Old 06-04-2022, 10:21 PM   #7
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All seems well with the fridge.
No idiot lights on it, and didn't check for the voltage drop on 12v, but when I plugged house AC in and let it run for a couple of hours, there was a noticeable drop in temperature inside. WHen I ran it on 120AC, the drop was dramatic and it became cold very quickly.
Glad to see it was just a matter of my letting it run longer than I had before.
Also I can see how 120v will cool down MUCH faster than 12v, so I'll look into the suggestion of using an inverter when driving down the road.
Thanks to everyone.
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Old 06-04-2022, 10:30 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by rstl99 View Post
All seems well with the fridge.
No idiot lights on it, and didn't check for the voltage drop on 12v, but when I plugged house AC in and let it run for a couple of hours, there was a noticeable drop in temperature inside. WHen I ran it on 120AC, the drop was dramatic and it became cold very quickly.
Glad to see it was just a matter of my letting it run longer than I had before.
Also I can see how 120v will cool down MUCH faster than 12v, so I'll look into the suggestion of using an inverter when driving down the road.
Thanks to everyone.
The idiot lights are Not associated with the refer, rather the house battery(s) where you might turn on your water pump........ You won't be able to drive if it does not work as the propane flame might be blown out driving, B's vary. Can be modified to do this. Or the previous owner may have arranged to run on ac with the inverter, unlikely.
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Old 06-09-2022, 03:56 PM   #9
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Make sure the fridge is level not just the trailer
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Old 06-09-2022, 04:15 PM   #10
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I pre-cool my fridge the night before we leave, while tethered to my garage with a heavy duty extension cord. That gets the fridge cold. My departure checklist includes switching to 12v DC. 12v is just enough to keep it cool and the engine keeps the battery charged. When I arrive in camp, I switch to propane. It can be hard to see the pilot light through the little glass lens in the full light of day. I repeat the process when I leave for a day trip; switch to DC while driving, and back to propane when parked.

I’ve forgotten to switch to propane when I got to camp or parked the van and went for a hike. That really takes a toll on the house battery. It would probably deplete the battery in 4-6 hours.
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Old 06-09-2022, 05:06 PM   #11
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Ha Asked some of the same 1 yr ago There IS no noise And you have to wait Try overnight
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Old 06-10-2022, 05:28 AM   #12
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Ha Asked some of the same 1 yr ago There IS no noise And you have to wait Try overnight
I agree wait over nite for test
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Old 06-10-2022, 10:10 AM   #13
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As mentioned above and I think needs repeating since you are new to RV fridges...

Never run your fridge if it isn't level - will ruin it.

Running your fridge on 12 volt is very inefficient - won't work as well and will run down the battery very quickly unless it is being charged at the same time.


Glad to hear it is getting cold - enjoy!
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