Suburban water heater maintenance tip

[Soyouz9]

Hi folks
For those of you who are winterizing their rig, now is the time to remove and inspect the anode (sacrificial rod) of your tank. This is what mine looks like after one season of operation since I’ve replaced my old SW6D heater by a new one last year. The corrosion is obvious and I’m glad that the material came out of the rod instead of the tank itself. Electrogalvanic corrosion occurs for various reasons, but mainly from high variations of mineral contents in the water we are using even though it is drinkable, but I do not want to start a thread on the matter, just to remind you guys to inspect and replace the rod once a year if it needs to, it will give your heater tank a longer life. By the way, this is a 20.00$C part, Camco #11563 for the Suburban SW6D.
Have a nice day

[SteveJ]

And do get the magnesium rod vs the aluminum. I get about three years out of a rod before it is down to about 1/3rd and time to replace.

[rowiebowie]

Originally Posted by SteveJ

And do get the magnesium rod vs the aluminum. I get about three years out of a rod before it is down to about 1/3rd and time to replace.

With the hard water at my home and where we've filled our tank during trips, I only get a year from a magnesium annode. And by then it's time to flush all the minerals out (which is almost a cup full).

Because of this, I tried an aluminum rod but it was nearly pristine after 3-4 months, so I was afraid it wasn't working. I went back to magnesium and it looked almost like the pic after 3 months.

[Soyouz9]

Originally Posted by SteveJ

And do get the magnesium rod vs the aluminum. I get about three years out of a rod before it is down to about 1/3rd and time to replace.

I do agree with your point about the magnesium rod.
Most Suburban water heaters comes with the magnesium anode as standard part #232767, but they do sell the aluminium option part #232768, and they suggest it should be used in hard water situation.
Camco #11563 is aluminium
Aluminium being very conductive, the degradation process occurs at a lower voltage, and the loss of material is then reduced.
As I said, and I’m sorry if I mislead anyone with my mention of the Camco part, the main issue here is to schedule a regular inspection of the part.

[rowiebowie]

Originally Posted by Soyouz9

As I said, and I’m sorry if I mislead anyone with my mention of the Camco part, the main issue here is to schedule a regular inspection of the part.

Not a problem and no need for apology. You raised a good issue regarding one of the most over-looked maintenance items in the rv world.

[GallenH]

Originally Posted by rowiebowie

Not a problem and no need for apology. You raised a good issue regarding one of the most over-looked maintenance items in the rv world.

I agree! I ordered a new anode just now. Thx for the reminder.

[rvsprinterguy]

I buy magnesium anodes two at a time on Amazon, and replace the one in the water heater every year. I don't think our water is especially hard, but it really does a number on the anodes.

Don't try this: forget to release the water pressure before removing the anode. Witness said anode shooting out like small rocket amid exciting spray of water.

[rowiebowie]

Originally Posted by rvsprinterguy

Don't try this: forget to release the water pressure before removing the anode. Witness said anode shooting out like small rocket amid exciting spray of water.

I've never forgotten, but certainly a good safety tip.

Does anyone know what becomes of all the white mineral deposits that are in the tank between flush outs? Why don't these deposits get picked up and clog water lines?

[booster]

Originally Posted by rowiebowie

I've never forgotten, but certainly a good safety tip.

Does anyone know what becomes of all the white mineral deposits that are in the tank between flush outs? Why don't these deposits get picked up and clog water lines?

The water enters the bottom and goes out the top, and the deposits are heavier than the water so they lay on the bottom of the tank until you pull the anode rod.

[rowiebowie]

Originally Posted by booster

The water enters the bottom and goes out the top, and the deposits are heavier than the water so they lay on the bottom of the tank until you pull the anode rod.

I've had two clogged cold water washer-screens that stopped water flow to my toilet and bath faucet but no clogged hot water washer-screens. So it must work.