To winterize

[Stinky]

I don't worry about sanitizing. I don't drink it or shower with it. It gets boiled for coffee. The system gets drained and flushed yearly. The fresh and hot tanks get drained and left open to air over the winter. Different strokes, experiences and intentions. What works for me works for me.

[Lori NH]

Originally Posted by rtbill

The danger is inadvertently pressurizing and cracking the fresh tank. Hopefully the overflow cap would blow out but it might not.

that is why we use a water pressure regulator because the water at RV parks can be too strong for the RV plumbing

[Stinky]

I work exclusively off my tank and pump. Never felt the need to have an external supply go directly through the system. Go info though. I'll keep the over pressure thing in mind.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by rtbill

The danger is inadvertently pressurizing and cracking the fresh tank. Hopefully the overflow cap would blow out but it might not.

The standard way to blow out the system is via the city water inlet. There is (or should be) a check valve between that and the fresh tank, so pressurizing the tank should not be possible. I suppose if the rig has one of those fancy "fill the fresh tank from the city water inlet" features, then there is the possibility of user error. Don't do that.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by Stinky

I don't worry about sanitizing. I don't drink it or shower with it. It gets boiled for coffee. The system gets drained and flushed yearly. The fresh and hot tanks get drained and left open to air over the winter. Different strokes, experiences and intentions. What works for me works for me.

Your choice. But, you might want to inspect your system some time. There are very likely areas that never dry, and mold growth can be a big problem, even if you aren't worried about pathogens. Vent tubes in particular can get pretty gross. Probably won't make you sick, but still...

[RossWilliams]

Originally Posted by rtbill

Municipal water is potable in the short term but far from sterile. Stuff can grow in water left sitting in tanks and lines.

I think this is important to remember. Its probably even more true for well water provided at some parks and campgrounds.

As I understand it, the propylene glycol used in many rv anti-freeze products retards the growth of bacteria. Another reason for using it for winterization. I don't think that means it will replace sterilization, just that it will not allow the bacteria growth you might get with any plain water left in the pipes.

If you are using the water in your tanks as drinking water you might want to flush the fresh water and disinfect the system periodically. If you have water that's been parked for a long time in the hot sun, you may want to disinfect even for wash water.

[RossWilliams]

Originally Posted by Bertiboo

No matter what, DO NOT USE propylene glycol (automotive) antifreeze for plumbing. RV plumbing antifreeze is not poison, though I’m not sure it’s healthy it won’t kill you.

I think automotive anti-freeze is often/usually/always ethylene glycol which is highly toxic. Auto coolant also usually has ingredients that raise the boiling point, not just prevent freezing.

Propylene glycol is a common RV anti-freeze and is considered safe for humans. At least until future scientists discover it makes us all into social media addicts who require wifi when camping in the great outdoors.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by RossWilliams

I think automotive anti-freeze is often/usually/always ethylene glycol which is highly toxic. Auto coolant also usually has ingredients that raise the boiling point, not just prevent freezing.

Propylene glycol is a common RV anti-freeze and is considered safe for humans.

This is correct. Propylene glycol is gross, but it is perfectly safe.

[RossWilliams]

The instructions I have for my Roadtrek explicitly say not to use air pressure. I would be cautious about some of the old-timers advice here. Technology and construction methods change.

I recall a Arizona condo developer in Minnesota who didn't put any heat vents between floors. It worked just fine as long as they were using old-fashioned metal duct work that leaked heat as it ran under the floor. Then they switched to new plastic duct that didn't leak. I spent Christmas day dealing with a host of burst pipes that ran through those unheated floor areas.

It may be that you can use high pressure to blow out the pipes on newer units. It might be you can on some and can't on the others. But I would trust your manufacturers instructions before you trust advice from the internet.

[avanti]

The upfitters prefer pink stuff because it is more foolproof. They are merely trying to minimize warranty repairs. I do not deny that it is easier to screw up a blow-out, either by doing an incomplete job or by using too-high pressure. If you are uninterested in acquiring the minimal skills involved, by all means stick with antifreeze. But, it is hardly rocket science. If you don't trust yourself, use a pressure-regulated compressor and set it to the same pressure as your water pump.

As I said, the idea that a plumbing system of any kind is adequate for pressurized water but not pressurized air defies logic.

[GeorgeRa]

This is maximum intake of polypropylene glycol according to the World Health Organization: “The World Health Organization recommends a maximum intake of 11.4 mg of propylene glycol per pound of body weight (25 mg/kg) per day. The estimated exposure to propylene glycol through foods in the US is 15 mg per pound (34 mg/kg) per day”

https://www.healthline.com/nutrition...OC_TITLE_HDR_4

So, for 75kg person maximum daily dose would be 2.5ml or 0.086 fl.oz., or 1/10 of a shot of vodka. To qualify if something is poisonous or not defining maximum exposure / intake helps.

Not all pink stuff is propylene glycol. This one from Walmart is not, https://www.lowes.com/pd/SPLASH-1-Ga...E&gclsrc=aw.ds This pink stuff is reasonably safe, ethanol with glycerin, flammable but it can kill in volume.

Air flushing with Pink Stuff in drains is as safe as water shore connection with air and water pressures being equal, physics.

[@Michael]

Originally Posted by avanti

That's funny. If it is "too delicate" for compressed air, it is too delicate for pressurized water. Yeah, I want one of those...

[Just to be clear: That last sentence is sarcasm. There is nothing wrong with RT plumbing, as far as I know.]

The key though, is to regulate the pressure of the compressed air when blowing the lines. I run my garage compressor at 120PSI, so before using it to blow out the lines, I adjust the regulator down to something less than 40psi.

My Truma, for example, has a 40PSI limit.

[HappyCamper1]

...Thanks to everyone with their recommendations..compressed air versus rv antifreeze..Late responding myself because of 'puter problem...think I'm leaning toward the antifreeze method....

[Dieps]

Originally Posted by HappyCamper1

Hi.. is that time of the year in WNY...what is the best way to winterize our Roadtrek?

You can’t go wrong by going to Roadtrek.com and download the owners manual for your year and model. There are step by step instructions for winterizing and de-winterizing. Take your time and follow the checklist. It will give you piece of mind that you’ve not forgotten anything.

[KanzKran]

Originally Posted by HappyCamper1

...think I'm leaning toward the antifreeze method....

Be sure to think about every place that might have water in it. Like outside shower connections. And the tank fill line from the city water connection. And the Shower Mizer valve, if it has one. Things like that. This is where a detailed step-by-step checklist comes in, though if you make is yourself, use a word processor so you can change it as more things come to mind.