Hydraulic levelers?

wabbit · 01-31-2012, 09:17 PM

Does anyone use these? A couple of incidents with my previous class-B caused me to put them on the list for the next one. It would seem easy enough to do. Thoughts?

booster · 01-31-2012, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wabbit

Does anyone use these? A couple of incidents with my previous class-B caused me to put them on the list for the next one. It would seem easy enough to do. Thoughts?

None that I know off. Would put most units overweight, I would think. We use our airbags in the back of our 07 Roadtrek to get some levelling, but not like real levellers. I did see a pic of a B that had screw jacks bolted to the front and rear.

wabbit · 02-01-2012, 05:01 AM

I had a bad experience, a few years back, when setting up camp at Sebring. I had laid out my leveling blocks and when I returned to the rear of the van they were gone. I found them in a neighbor's fire pit. I figured that there had to be a better way...

wabbit · 02-04-2012, 11:36 PM

Certainly someone must have come up with a more elegant low-weight solution to slacks of blocks by now.

Johnny R · 02-05-2012, 02:50 AM

I actually like the blocks. I have a couple different heights, and built a nice little cubbyhole under one seat in which to store them.

booster · 02-05-2012, 02:59 AM

We like the blocks, also. Two sets (20 blocks) of the Lego style only use about 12" of the side storage of our C190P Roadtrek.

markopolo · 02-05-2012, 12:16 PM

I use the blocks also.
I don't need to use them as much with a Class B van. I can usually find a fairly level area within a campsite to park. I have a small (maybe 1" square) 4 way level that I put on the floor where I can see it just behind me and stop the van when the bubble is in the center. It is not perfect but it is good enough for comfort and the fridge requirements.

Davydd · 02-05-2012, 05:59 PM

We use one set of lego blocks. They have worked in just about every instance. In being on the road last year for over 100 days we probably had to use them less than a half dozen times and we camped in mostly public campgrounds. With a B you can generally jockey around until you find a sweet spot. Also, I've developed a keen eye for spotting level sites and can now almost find a level spot and feel it right from the driver's seat without looking at a level. That speeds up the process.

I've noticed larger, longer motorhomes generally have to do more leveling at campsites.

I should mention the one time, our first year on the road, we couldn't level with our blocks and we resorted to split firewood to accomplish our leveling.

Johnny R · 02-07-2012, 02:05 AM

I should have added that I have a small 'bubble level' placed where I can see it from the driver's seat. Just a wonderful little DIY gadget for parking.

Photog · 02-13-2012, 07:25 PM

I saw the screw jacks also. The owner used a rechargeable drill to run the jacks down/up, to save time. The jacks were mounted permanently, at each corner of the vehicle.

Hydraulic jacks and all the supporting systems, would be heavy and complex. But, I'm sure it could be done.

wabbit · 02-14-2012, 01:26 AM

I remember the difficulty in finding a place to mount the bubble level on a class-B. That was half of the problem when setting up on those times where I was driving solo. I agree that hydraulic levelers would be heavy and bulky.

Ideally, I'd like to find an electronic level. The sensor would be permanently attached to the frame with a readout on the dash. Hmmmm... It wouldn't be too difficult to set such a device up so that it would tell me how many Lego-style blocks on which wheels. Hmmmm... If someone doesn't make such a thing, they should.

Photog · 02-14-2012, 05:44 PM

I have a Level App in my iPhone. I lay it flat on the console, when parking. With some testing, I know the rig is level, when the bubble is 2 degrees high to the rear.

With a little more testing, I would be able to determine how much difference the leveling-blocks make.

You need a "known level spot" to do your testing. But it could all be done in about 30 minutes.

The App for my phone is called: Clinometer
http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/clinomet ... 77623?mt=8

booster · 02-14-2012, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wabbit

I remember the difficulty in finding a place to mount the bubble level on a class-B. That was half of the problem when setting up on those times where I was driving solo. I agree that hydraulic levelers would be heavy and bulky.

Ideally, I'd like to find an electronic level. The sensor would be permanently attached to the frame with a readout on the dash. Hmmmm... It wouldn't be too difficult to set such a device up so that it would tell me how many Lego-style blocks on which wheels. Hmmmm... If someone doesn't make such a thing, they should.

An easy way to mount a level, that doesn't need a perfectly level area can be done in lots of places in a B. Ours sits on the extension of the sill trim, behind the driver seat, so you can see it while parking.

Just get a circular, bullseye, level, use you blocks to get the van level off of any surface you want in the van, and then just go to wherever you want the level to mount (horizontal surface of course), put a blob of silicone caulking on the back of the level, set it in your location, make it read level (as the van already is) by adjusting it in the silicone blob. Once the silicone sets, it will read level accurately all the time. Ours has been in place for 3+years and has made getting level soooo much easier.

wabbit · 02-15-2012, 12:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Photog

I have a Level App in my iPhone. I lay it flat on the console, when parking. With some testing, I know the rig is level, when the bubble is 2 degrees high to the rear.

With a little more testing, I would be able to determine how much difference the leveling-blocks make.

You need a "known level spot" to do your testing. But it could all be done in about 30 minutes.

Thanks for a pointer to the app. I'll have to play with that a bit.

Photog · 02-15-2012, 04:21 PM

Do you have to be maneuvering with the door open, to be in position to observe the level, in that location?

I think this is a good idea.

I have considered gluing a bubble-level in that same manner, but have not found a combination of location and bubble that appeals to me. Maybe one of the black/green levels marketed to photographers, mounted inside the "glove box" in the console.

booster · 02-15-2012, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Photog

Do you have to be maneuvering with the door open, to be in position to observe the level, in that location?

I think this is a good idea.

I have considered gluing a bubble-level in that same manner, but have not found a combination of location and bubble that appeals to me. Maybe one of the black/green levels marketed to photographers, mounted inside the "glove box" in the console.

I do have the door open to see it, which isn't much of an issue as it is open to hear DW warning about which tree or picnic table I am about to run over!

Usually, we look at the site and guess a good spot, back in on the mirrors, then use the level to move around a little bit to get the best results.

I will have to check to see if I can see it just with the window open, door closed. Haven't tried that.

ClassBee · 03-07-2012, 02:10 PM

Since the fridge is really the only thing in the camper that needs to be level, we have determined that a level placed on the counter directly above the fridge is sufficient for the rest of the camper. There are very few places in the camper that are "level", so all you really need to worry about is the fridge. If we are close, we just stay where we are; otherwise, add a lego level to whichever side is off.

AZ ADVenturist · 03-07-2012, 03:40 PM

You right about the 'fridge leveling. I've been told that if the 'fridge is operated on AC/DC it isn't necessary to completely level - close is O.K. Apparently only the propane system in the refer' requires full leveling.?? When we travel & don't have AC hook-up I usually just leave it OFF completely. I get so tired of trying to find 'true level' that if we are going fast & furious we just use an ice-cooler & don't bother to level at all as long as we don't roll out of bed. Works for Us.
YRMV!

booster · 03-07-2012, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZ ADVenturist

You right about the 'fridge leveling. I've been told that if the 'fridge is operated on AC/DC it isn't necessary to completely level - close is O.K. Apparently only the propane system in the refer' requires full leveling.?? When we travel & don't have AC hook-up I usually just leave it OFF completely. I get so tired of trying to find 'true level' that if we are going fast & furious we just use an ice-cooler & don't bother to level at all as long as we don't roll out of bed. Works for Us.
YRMV!

The frig works exactly the same, and thus needs the same level, on all sources of power. It is the ammonia system that requires the levelling.

We got tired of the level thing very quickly, as many of the hiking spots we go to have very unlevel parking.

We switched to a 12v compressor frig that can be 30* off level and be fine. Would never go back to an absorption one.

AZ ADVenturist · 03-07-2012, 05:30 PM

Booster; I was hoping you would chime in here. I read about your 'fridge conversion - I LIKE it!
I've been looking at the portable compressor refers' (Engle is one). The RV people I have talked to here in AZ don't seem to know about it. And I know that I have been misinformed about operation of our propane systems. I would like to have a better arrangement for our planned Yukon/SE Alaska trip this summer... So, what is your or anyone else research/experience with the portable compressor refers'?? This could be a whole 'nuther thread on this forum - maybe.
Thanks, Ric.

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