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Old 02-28-2022, 12:49 AM   #1
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Default New Tires and Wheels for Chevy Roadtrek 210

The time came last year for new tires on my 2008 Chevy Roadtrek 210. After distilling the information I have read over 6 years since the last new tires, I also wanted to restore the correct wheel offset.

Changing tires is easy. Changing steering geometry with different wheel offset/geometry has the potential result of tire interference with wheel well components. Ideally I wanted to test fit wheels and tires before buying them in case things didn’t work out. My first and only trial was with the wheels off of my 2009 Suburban, which have the same offset dimension as the OEM van wheels although they are 1 inch wider. I did a test fit with the worn 265/70R17 Suburban tires and clearances were too close for comfort. I judged that the next size narrower tire would work.

So, I replaced the Roadtrek supplied AR23 wheels (16”x 8”(7.5”?), 0 offset) with GM 9595858 (17”x 7.5”, 28mm offset). These rims were used on the pickups and Suburbans but were never an option on the vans AFAIK.
Refurbed the wheels - sanded the corrosion off the front side; removed the epoxy-like buildup on the backside; 3 coats each of primer, paint, clear.

Made new brackets to relocate the front wheel speed sensor cables to maintain clearance.

I went with 245/75R17 tires, Cooper Discoverer HT3, max load 3195 lbs. These tires have the somewhat elusive “S” speed rating recommended for these vehicles. I didn’t consider tires with the lower “R” rating. Adjusted the toe after the install. After 3000 miles the only thing I have noticed on the road is an improvement in ride comfort. The tires replaced were Bridgestone V-Steel Rib 265, which I judge to be relatively stiff and contribute to a harsh ride.

These two changes (wheels, tires) provide -

Increase of 150 lbs tire load capacity.
Reduced wheel bearing load with factory offset wheels.
A smidge more ground clearance ~ 0.5” based on tire specs.

One detail I stumbled across is that Chevy changed the bolt pattern of the 8 lug trucks sometime in late 2000’s or early 2010’s. The change came in different years for pickups, vans, and Suburbans.

I had already replaced the front springs and added rear airbags to bring the ride height to nominal with the full time heavy load. This was done a few years ago.

Also there is an effect on speedometer accuracy that looks to be 3 mph low at 65 mph. Each project leads to another.
A good reference for this topic is found here:
https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...hevy-1985.html
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File Type: jpg Sub OEM Wheel Ugly.jpg (240.3 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg Sub OEM Wheel Refurb.jpg (309.4 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg RT Wheels.jpg (380.7 KB, 28 views)
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Old 02-28-2022, 02:14 PM   #2
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Nice job refurbing of the wheels. Glad the fit worked out, as you found, there are more challenges than meets the eye.

When I lifted my '2011 Express (Airstream Avenue) I left the tires and wheels as is. But I started getting some contact with the Airstream installed front mud flaps during tight turns that never happened previously. Simple solution was to trim the flaps down, but still, the contact was unexpected.
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Old 02-28-2022, 04:01 PM   #3
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What was used for the finish on the wheels? Getting things that can stand the heat without discoloring or peeling can be challenging.


We have the larger steel wheels and the heat did make it let go near the hub area, but I had used automotive paint and clear that I had on hand. Next time they will get powder coated.
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Old 02-28-2022, 06:43 PM   #4
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The wheel paint I used, mainly due to availability at the chain auto parts store, is Duple-Color brand. Did not do a lot of research. Time will tell on longevity, but corrosion will start with clip-on wheel weight install. Then accelerate with salt water. Can avoid that with stick-on but more time consuming to get the balance right, and hope that the glue doesn't give up.
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Old 02-28-2022, 08:08 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GroupB View Post
The wheel paint I used, mainly due to availability at the chain auto parts store, is Duple-Color brand. Did not do a lot of research. Time will tell on longevity, but corrosion will start with clip-on wheel weight install. Then accelerate with salt water. Can avoid that with stick-on but more time consuming to get the balance right, and hope that the glue doesn't give up.

I think with all the factory aluminum wheels, the losing of stick on weights has nearly disappeared. I don't think I have lost one in over 20 years. Next time I get tires I need to remember to tell them to use stick on for our steel wheels as the weights mess up the fit of the wheel covers.
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Old 06-27-2022, 03:26 PM   #6
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Here the choice depends on your personal preferences and financial capabilities. It is considered that a more powerful and faster car should be fitted with wider tires. And vice versa, it makes no sense to put wider tires on a car with a small engine capacity more info
The expensive tire uses the latest technology and materials. A special composition of rubber and the latest developments in cord design are used. This is what distinguishes the more expensive tires from the cheaper ones. I prefer the middle option in terms of price and quality.
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Old 06-27-2022, 03:44 PM   #7
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a quick and easy method is to cover the wheel (with tire on) with a trash bag.


cut the center of the bag and then use a paint scraper to push the bag into the gap between tire and wheel.


the exposed wheel can now be painted



the tire ( or tyre) masked


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