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-   -   Winterizing 2019 Crossfit w/ Truma Combi (https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f5/winterizing-2019-crossfit-w-truma-combi-8777.html)

Russ T 01-30-2019 06:55 PM

Winterizing 2019 Crossfit w/ Truma Combi
 
I recently purchased a 2019 Coachmen Crossfit. My unit has the Truma Combi (furnace/water heater). I have heard numerous conflicting answers to winterizing the unit. It does not have a bypass for the Truma. I have heard it needs a bypass. I have also heard it doesn’t need a bypass, you fill the tank with antifreeze.
Different service shops have different answers... Nobody seems to know for sure.
Is there anyone with the same set-up, that winterizes their own unit, that can set me straight on this?
I appreciate the help on this!

Phoebe3 01-30-2019 10:36 PM

I downloaded a copy of the Truma manual and it says that "winterizing with a winterizing fluid is only possible with an installed bypass kit (not in scope of supply)."

I hate the way RV antifreeze leaves a residual odor so would prefer to winterize using compressed air (careful to not blow apart the fittings.)

@Michael 01-30-2019 11:18 PM

My understanding is that to winterize, you need to drain the Truma and then either rely on compressed air to winterize (no RV fluid); or use RV Fluid and fill the Truma completely. If you fill the Truma with fluid, you cannot use the furnace, as the heat from the furnace will cause issues with the RV fluid in the hot water tank (corrosion or gumming up of the Truma or....not sure).

I winterized twice so far, each time I drained the Truma, then filled it with RV fluid (3 gallons total), then drained the fluid from the Truma and used compressed air to blow out the RV fluid from all the plumbing so none would end up back in the Truma tank. I re-used the 3 gallons that I drained.

Next summer I'm putting in a bypass. It looks like I can do that w/o too much trouble - Mine is the 'C' model so the Truma is under the sink and fairly accessible.

magicbus 01-31-2019 02:11 PM

I winterized my Truma for the first time last year. I just flipped the bypass on and opened the hot water faucets and the pressure valve and drain valve and let the tank empty. I then put pink stuff through the water system but not through the Truma. Works fine this year.

avanti 01-31-2019 03:06 PM

Just blow it out. The pink stuff is gross and pointless in the fresh system.

magicbus 01-31-2019 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avanti (Post 87304)
Just blow it out. The pink stuff is gross and pointless in the fresh system.

I can't begin to justify allocating space in my B to carry my compressor so the pink stuff is not pointless for me since I do not trust my coach to drain naturally.

@Michael 01-31-2019 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by magicbus (Post 87293)
I winterized my Truma for the first time last year. I just flipped the bypass on and opened the hot water faucets and the pressure valve and drain valve and let the tank empty. I then put pink stuff through the water system but not through the Truma. Works fine this year.

Unfortunately some Coachmen don't have a bypass. Otherwise that method would work & be preferred.

@Michael 01-31-2019 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avanti (Post 87304)
Just blow it out. The pink stuff is gross and pointless in the fresh system.

Been there. Done that. Busted a shower faucet. Flooded the camper.

On that camper ( an all aluminum Livinlite Camplite) a flood was a minor inconvenience. The camper has aluminum frame, roof, walls and floor, with zero wood, so I just let it drain. No harm, no foul.

On a 'B'? I have no idea how I'd get the OSB under the one-piece fiberglass bathroom unit to dry out. Don't want to have to figure that out either.

BillsPaseo 01-31-2019 10:49 PM

If you are blowing out the lines with compressed air, you need a compressor that lets you limit the output pressure. Winnebago recommends no higher than 25 psi. At 25 psi, you won't damage anything.

@Michael 01-31-2019 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillsPaseo (Post 87363)
If you are blowing out the lines with compressed air, you need a compressor that lets you limit the output pressure. Winnebago recommends no higher than 25 psi. At 25 psi, you won't damage anything.

Yep. In my case the air didn't bust the faucet, the -24f temperature combined with a very small amount of leftover water did. The faucet busted on the low pressure side, so I didn't know it was busted until I took a shower months later, and the water came out in the wall, not in the shower. :(

In any case, I've settled on the air->RV fluid->air method as the best way to make sure that things don't go 'break' in the middle of winter; while still minimizing RV fluid wastage.

mloganusda 02-01-2019 02:33 PM

One thing to remember is to check on the 12v water pump. I blew out the water lines on my WGO Trend the first winter and in the spring I found the plastic filter bulb on the water pump had busted from freezing. The 12v pump has a one way valve that will not let you clear the water line back to the fresh holding tank with air. I had to purchase the whole filter just to obtain the plastic bulb. After replacing the bulb, the water pump worked.


MLogan
2017 Trend
Smyrna, TN

JoePacificNW 02-07-2019 07:37 PM

Truma Winterizing
 
In winterizing my water system with the Truma water heater, I simply use my water pump with a suction line into a bottle of cheap vodka. I pump it throughout the water system and out through all of the faucets, shower heads and toilet. I don't use my rig during the cold part of the winter, but the vodka won't freeze and doesn't cause the problems with flushing that the red antifreeze does. About a gallon of cheap vodka and I'm winterized, easy-peasy. No need to disconnect fittings, install a bypass, etc. And it doesn't corrode or cause any buildup in the system. I've been doing this on boat systems for years. Just as easy on an RV.

Joe PacificNW
2017 PleasureWay Plateau

avanti 02-07-2019 09:14 PM

If you are getting freeze damage, then you are not blowing out the system properly. Thousands of RV'ers rely on this method routinely. I have done it for 14 Northeastern winters, often several times a season.

It is true that excessive pressure can cause damage, and for beginners I agree that having a pressure limiter is a good idea. That said, I do my blowouts with a small, inexpensive tire-inflator-style compressor. The volume capacity of those units is so low that it is difficult to do much damage. With a little practice, you can easily let the pressure build up until there is sufficient volume and pressure to blow out a single fixture, letting the pressure replenish between items. Very easy, and hardly a large investment of space. Don't most folks carry one anyway?

Those fancy hand-held kitchen and bath wands do tend to retain water. I simply unscrew them and take them indoors. Leave all other valves open. And yes, definitely remove the plastic screen holder on the pump. Do these things and you will be fine.

BTW: "-24 F temperature" is almost totally beside the point. The maximum volume of ice is just below freezing. After that, ice contracts just like any other solid. Freeze/thaw cycles are the danger, not extreme cold.

Edit:
It is also important to work your way outward -- starting with the fixtures closest to the water pump and working your way outward toward the periphery. I always do two passes.

Bud 02-07-2019 09:23 PM

"Don't most folks carry one anyway?"

Would assist with an example of one.

Thanks avanti.

@Michael 02-07-2019 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoePacificNW (Post 87972)
In winterizing my water system with the Truma water heater, I simply use my water pump with a suction line into a bottle of cheap vodka.

I think that 80 proof vodka will freeze here - we have the possibility of -30f where i live, -45f if I were to be a bit north of here. I'd have to get the good stuff. :)

Kab449 02-08-2019 08:00 PM

My Galleria doesn't have the bypass. I opened all the low point drains and the Truma Combi drain. Let all the water drain that will. Close all the drains including the Truma Combi. Hook up the suction hose to the fresh water inlet and turn the selector valve to winterize. Open a hot water spigot and turn on the pump. You will have to have 3 gallons of RV Antifreeze available. Keep pumping until pink comes out of the Hot Water Spigot. Close it and open any other hot water spigots you have. Do the same for all the cold water spigots making sure enough of the pink antifreeze gets into the drain traps including the one in the shower pan. Make sure to open the hot and cold low point drains until the pink antifreeze comes out of them. Put a pan large enough to hold 2 gallons under the Truma drain, open the valve and drain all the pink Antifreeze from the Combi tank. You can put this back into the original bottles and reuse it next year.
Drain all your waste tanks and run the macerator to expel all the water in your tanks. Drain the macerator hose as best you can. Dump a quart of pink antifreeze into the toilet to protect the macerator.
-3 degrees so for this year in Central PA and all is good.

Flatlander1 03-01-2019 12:19 PM

2019 Galleria factory winterized until PDI yesterday. Tech had filled grey and black for leak check. After telling me refrig was elect/gas I knew this PDI was a waste of time. Also had a chip in the windshied, but that's another thread!!
Sani-Con manual has the following:
1. All tanks empty
2. RV antifreeze into black tank
3. Turn on pump
4. Run pump til antifreeze begins to discharge from universal nozzle.
5. Turn pump off.
6. Drain hose.
7. Drain bypass valve.

Truma combo sounds even more difficult!!!!
OKC 25 now, forecast 8degrees Mon am.
Any advice how to proceed or is damage already done?
Thank you, Mark

@Michael 03-01-2019 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flatlander1 (Post 89712)
2019 Galleria factory winterized until PDI yesterday. Tech had filled grey and black for leak check. After telling me refrig was elect/gas I knew this PDI was a waste of time. Also had a chip in the windshied, but that's another thread!!
Sani-Con manual has the following:
1. All tanks empty
2. RV antifreeze into black tank
3. Turn on pump
4. Run pump til antifreeze begins to discharge from universal nozzle.
5. Turn pump off.
6. Drain hose.
7. Drain bypass valve.

Truma combo sounds even more difficult!!!!
OKC 25 now, forecast 8degrees Mon am.
Any advice how to proceed or is damage already done?
Thank you, Mark

Did the dealer (factory?) un-winterize during the PDI, and then not re-winterize? Ugh.....

Can you pick up one of the air compressor adapters and blow out all the water? If so, I'd drain the Truma per their instructions, then close up the Truma drain and use compressed air to get as much water out as possible. If you have all te water out, that might be good enough.

Otherwise pick up 3 or so gallons of RV antifreeze and use the pump to fill up the Truma and all the plumbing.

DUTCH in Atlanta 03-01-2019 12:33 PM

I just re-winterized my 2019 Galleria because it's headed north. Mine has the Truma bypass, and the whole winterizing procedure is quite convoluted. It's going to see 8°F on Monday night. I hope I did a good job.

Flatlander1 03-01-2019 12:48 PM

I have pink stuff in toilet bowel and in kit sink. Fresh and grey are showing empty and black 30%. I don't think this dealer has any idea how to winterize the Truma combo and if he used Sani-con to empty tanks from his leak check, not sure he re-winterized it afterwards. He did open the low point valves tho!!


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