20-Year-Old ASME propane tank

[engnrsrule]

The ASME propane tank in my road trek is approaching 20 years old. The underside of the tank has lost much of its paint and has surface rust. I have not had any facility refuse to refill It, but I'm thinking replacement may be a good idea at this point. I am optimistically hoping to get another 10 years out of this rig.

 

[youngnretired]

I dealt with this literally 2 days before our 2 month route 66 trip. I used a nylon grinding wheel on my cordless angle grinder. Taped up the original nameplate to keep that looking factory, used mineral spirits to take grease and debris off, primed and painted. Use the high zinc type of primer for better rust protection. It looks great now and took 3 hours. Before our trip, a replacement tank was $1800 canadian. After grinding and after paint pics.

 

[jjrbus]

You are looking at big bucks to replace a tank and people often are told they need a new one when they do not. Clean, paint and you are good for another 20 years.

08

 

[booster]

I think a lot of it depends on the tank itself, primarily it's rust condition. The tend to rust the worst around the weld, especially where the bungs are welded in.

IMO, you need to strip it to bare metal and check carefully for things like gaps under the weld bead like a small overhang that would indicate a less than great weld penetration and also that the may be rust under the bead swelling up and lifting it loose. If there is rust under the welds that tank is probably done for. Pinholes, large areas of major rust that thins the metal a bunch, etc.

Many rustprood rattlecan paints are very rust resistant and it is hard to tell, especially with it going in and ugly environment that doesn't get washed. Etching with phosphoric acid is a good idea, with a good rinse, is a big help in adhesion and it should look a little whitish when done and that is good. For non visible, I like the brush on Por15 as it can be brushed into any pits or along the edges of welds. And then any compatible topcoat of your choice as long as it won't lift the Por15. How it looks in 10 years is what is important way more than looking perfect now. Once in place I would spray it with one of the light waxy rust proofing products like LPS3. Doesn't look great but helps a lot over time and is easy to reapply once in a while.

 

[ChicagoTom]

I talked to a Yard Master at AmeriGas when I had to get my valve replaced. I was new to RVing and assumed, with all the rust, that I needed to replace the tank. I asked him how long the tank is good for, and he replied "Forever". It's surface rust on an ASME tank, period, end of story. I'll take the advice of a 40 year AmeriGas Yardmaster over anyone on this board. BTW, mine still looks like crap and it was 8 years ago that I thought FOR SURE I needed to replace it.

 

[peteco]

I know someone with a 2007 RT 210P and his tank developed a leak. Not sure it was failure from the outside or the inside. He found a new tank in Canada. It was expensive, and they said they couldn't get any more of that particular tank. Seems like it would make sense to clean and paint. I should probably do mine.

 

[ChicagoTom]

He was lied to. The leak was not the tank, it was something connected to it. WC Fields said, "There's a sucker born every minute".

 

[booster]

We have been down this rat hole way too often. We have seen pix and linked videos of leaks in the tanks, always at the welds. From posts that Tlillard23 posted showing links and he also had video on another site.

@chicagotom, 40 years experience. Are you offering to swap tanks? If not, Get out of my want ad please. better yet, buy my tank from me for about 600 bucks.
One picture is obviously soap bubbles in the first leak. The other picture is the propane spray out of the second leak. the 2 leaks were about 1.5 inches apart on the weld.


no the vehicle was not in any accidents, tank had some surface rust that I was in process of repainting.



do you have a new tank for me?

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[booster]

Here are two more that physically found the leaks themselves so obviously saw them. Interblog also has posted here. This is from the Airstream forum. Are all these folks liars?

• #12

[IMG alt="InterBlog"]https://www.airforums.com/data/avatars/m/478/478512.jpg?1759257483[/IMG]

InterBlog​

Senior Member​

RV LIFE Pro



Joined Oct 11, 2014 Posts 7,434 Location League City, TX AIR Member # 92576

How did you deal with leak when it started? LPG Is highly explosive when vaporized. Hope the tank wasn’t full.

Not sure which poster this question is intended for.

In my case, my tank was near full but my leak was a pinhole. I caught it early, in other words, because I happened to be rummaging around under my chassis for some reason unrelated to propane, at which point I heard a noise and saw bubbling.

There’s no substitute for getting on one’s back on a creeper and seeing what’s actually going on.

• Jun 8, 2025

• #13

OP

Schmitte​

Senior Member​

Joined Jun 25, 2018 Posts 170 Location IL AIR Member # 137677

How did you deal with leak when it started? LPG Is highly explosive when vaporized. Hope the tank wasn’t full.

In my case, the tank was also full.. leak started as a pinhole but expanded as I scraped the rust off. It was coming out pretty good so I called the Fire Dept. At their advice we just let it depressurize naturally and kept ignition sources away.
It was still out gassing after 48 hours but reading empty so we disconnected the regulator and bled the remaining gas (much more than I expected) through the solenoid valve

 

[RT-NY]

I talked to a Yard Master at AmeriGas when I had to get my valve replaced. I was new to RVing and assumed, with all the rust, that I needed to replace the tank. I asked him how long the tank is good for, and he replied "Forever". It's surface rust on an ASME tank, period, end of story. I'll take the advice of a 40 year AmeriGas Yardmaster over anyone on this board. BTW, mine still looks like crap and it was 8 years ago that I thought FOR SURE I needed to replace it.

ChicagoTom - Your claim here, which you have made before, just seems too extreme. I agree with you that most of the time it is just surface rust and people often replace tanks unneccessarily so your advice is valuable. But surely it cannot be correct that it is completely impossible for ASME tanks to fail sometimes, if only because of a poor quality weld. How else would you explain these pics?

 

[jjrbus]

I talked to a Yard Master at AmeriGas when I had to get my valve replaced. I was new to RVing and assumed, with all the rust, that I needed to replace the tank. I asked him how long the tank is good for, and he replied "Forever". It's surface rust on an ASME tank, period, end of story. I'll take the advice of a 40 year AmeriGas Yardmaster over anyone on this board. BTW, mine still looks like crap and it was 8 years ago that I thought FOR SURE I needed to replace it.

If the data plate rots off or is missing then the tank is no longer good. Very slim chance of that happening

 

[jjrbus]

Speaking of welds. The RT tank seems to be $$$$$$$$. I have never looked into this but why couldn't a commonly available SAE LP tank have brackets welded to adapt it to the RT?? The tank maybe no, how about modifying the brackets..

 

[booster]

Some things will never change. Here is what tlillard23 said about his tank.

Who told you that the tank needs to be replaced? There's nothing wrong with the tank, so you need to find out what's leaking that's connected to the tank. I've been through many discussions relating to replacing the tank, and in the end they confirm it was something else. I thought I needed a new one, because of the heavy surface rust. I brought it in, because my valve was stuck open. A 40+ year Yardmaster at Amerigas repaired it. I asked how long the tank was good for, and he replied "Forever". Many have been scammed and thought it was the tank, because the problem was solved when replaced, but it was the new connections, shut off valve, filler valve etc. that actually solved the problem. ASME Tanks NEVER need to be replaced.

LOL, sorry yer wrong. liquid propane spitting out of the WELD on the right side endcap when I turned it upside down. was quite a surprise to me!!

Not soap, not bubbles just pure propane from the the weld.

 

[peteco]

These tanks are designed for extremely long "unlimited" life. But on occasion, a weld is not done to spec or has some contamination. But it passes the initial pressure test. Over time the joint fails due to outside, and perhaps inside rust and/or fatigue. Most propane shops may never see a failure, but a few do. So it is possible for a tank to fail. Maintenance, like derusting and painting, can't hurt and may indeed help prolong a poor joint. I'm not an expert; just my view of the possibilities.

 

[youngnretired]

Let's be a little civil please. Message boards are to help others be offering opinions to given problems. Opinions by anyone who provides input are based on their experiences and memory and opinion. Not every person gets it right every time.

I do want to comment on the "indefinate" opinion by this person. It's a metal tank, and that tanks lifespan is dependent on the condition for which its subject to, and original quality of construction. Just like opinions, constructed materials are subject to not being perfect every time. Ever buy a replacement part only to find its the wrong part in the box or its defective? Yea, things happen. If the tank never sees water or road salt, yea, maybe its lifespan is close to indefinite. However, if it has poor welds and lives in a salt bath for 6 months of the year, its lifespan then isn't indefinate, but limited. Once again, our input is opinions, and likely nobody on the forum can tell from the post how your tank was treated its life nor the quality of its construction.

 

[ChicagoTom]

Actually it was easy to find the FB one I was talking about. If you still don't believe me I can copy the entire thread.>>

Mazz Whitaker
Author
Thomas Morgan you were so right- Suburban Propane in Maple Shade NJ-went after this with a mission- and we found loose fitting on refrigerator connection. Definitely not the tank,the rv place just wanted a quick answer because I “passed” their leak test.
What I thought was “probably “ bubbles was just foam and gravity. When we sprayed the Refrig fitting there were clearly ongoing bubbles. When we tightened the nut,they stopped. What was going to be 2600$ and 5 month wait,took 2 hours and 300$.
Happy ending!!

Mazz Whitaker​

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Update: Happy ending to this saga-propane tank dealer found the leak from a loose refrigerator fitting,and confirmed no leaks from tank. RV dealership was so incompetent.
. 2005 Excel TS ,I officially need a new propane tank,have seen bubbles appear on the rust outside. Since the exact tank (Manchester 6881) is 1800$ and 5 months lead time…. has anyone used a slightly different tank to fit up under there? Would really appreciate any advice. Now ,I can’t sell it and can’t use it.

 

[booster]

So tanks never leak because a dealer didn't know how to use bubble checking? And note that nobody said fitting leaks were not the most common leaks in propane systems.

You look for new bubbles forming, not what it looks like sprayed on originally. Using the specific gas leak check from the home center does seem to work a bit better than dish soap of such from what I have seen. You are actually better to brush it on than spray it because the sprayer will introduce air into the liquid and you have to let it sit a bit before watching for new bubbles. A cluster of same size bubbles like one of the pix showed is telltale of a leak if they came after initial application.

It is impossible to prove "it never happens" by showing times it didn't happen, especially when there are well documented times showing it has happened, just not to you.

 

[jjrbus]

Soapy water tests are ok, then there is the new high tech soapy water, much better than old fashioned soap and water. Me I prefer an ultrasonic leak detector which I have and use. I do not care what anyone says anything made can leak!Amazon.com

 

[GallenH]

My 2-cents worth (wait: isn't the Lincoln going under!): ASME tanks are guaranteed for life. But that doesn't mean there can't be a structural issue. Twice a year I inspect the tank with a readily available propane/gas sniffer. That caught a leak in the valve (it leaked during opening but not in the full open or full closed position) and once that caught a leak in the second stage of the regulator. Neither in the tank itself.

 

[GallenH]

So tanks never leak because a dealer didn't know how to use bubble checking? And note that nobody said fitting leaks were not the most common leaks in propane systems.

You look for new bubbles forming, not what it looks like sprayed on originally. Using the specific gas leak check from the home center does seem to work a bit better than dish soap of such from what I have seen. You are actually better to brush it on than spray it because the sprayer will introduce air into the liquid and you have to let it sit a bit before watching for new bubbles. A cluster of same size bubbles like one of the pix showed is telltale of a leak if they came after initial application.

It is impossible to prove "it never happens" by showing times it didn't happen, especially when there are well documented times showing it has happened, just not to you.

BTW: Mine is a 1997 PW which makes the tank 28 yrs old.