2006 Roadtrek 210 tire capacity and dually conversion options

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Member Title: It's been awhile
A member returned to the forum after buying a 2006 Roadtrek 210 on the Chevy Express platform and focused mainly on rear tire capacity, wheel options, and whether a dually conversion would be worthwhile. Several members said the 210 runs close to its rear axle and tire limits, so aging tires should be replaced sooner rather than later, and multiple members pointed to larger 16 inch or 17 inch tire and wheel combinations as a simpler way to gain a useful safety margin without changing the...
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TWX

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2012
Posts
156
Location
Tempe
Not technically new but last was on the forum in 2012 back when I was looking at Dodge B-series Van Roadtreks.

Bought a 2006 Roadtrek 210 Popular on the Chevy Express platform today, likely to replace the single axle Jayco travel trailer that has been more awkward to use than we thought it would be. It's in okay shape for its age, I'll need to replace a little bit of Roadtrek's underside bracketry near the aft end, but the Chevrolet frame, suspension, and other metal is great.

Runs strong, 6.0L V8. Tires are a bit long in the tooth, probably won't get more than a season out of them. I'm debating doing the dually retrofit when it's time for replacing the tires unless I somehow get a very good deal on the existing size and load rating. Not sure if I would do the full axle swap or just the spacers.
 
Welcome back.

As for the tires, if they are much more than 5 years old, I would replace them, especially the rears. The 210's are near max weight on the rears, and one blowout on the road could be quite catastrophic and cost you much more in repairs than it's worth, and hopefully nobody's life.

Im going to get our 210 on a schedule to replace 2 tires every 3 years, and the new tires always go on the back and do a rotation at the same time. So only the front 2 tires are used for 1 season after they are 5 years old.
 
Welcome back.

As for the tires, if they are much more than 5 years old, I would replace them, especially the rears. The 210's are near max weight on the rears, and one blowout on the road could be quite catastrophic and cost you much more in repairs than it's worth, and hopefully nobody's life.

Im going to get our 210 on a schedule to replace 2 tires every 3 years, and the new tires always go on the back and do a rotation at the same time. So only the front 2 tires are used for 1 season after they are 5 years old.

I'm also sort of considering some even heavier rated tires, but those tend to come in weird wheel sizes like 19.5" or 17.5" and they don't seem to have the same sort of winter weather certifications.

Only reason I'm not chomping at the bit to go dually is that if I find some 8 on 6.5 wheels with the larger 4.75" center bore then I could run new tires on the Roadtrek and then swap them onto a Dodge D350 that I have. 8 on 6.5 SRW are lugcentric so the larger center bore shouldn't matter, and with neither vehicle having TPMS it would really not be that big a deal to do this.

But we'll see. The dually option sounds like it makes more sense given that the 210 is so close to the limits anyway.
 
Not technically new but last was on the forum in 2012 back when I was looking at Dodge B-series Van Roadtreks.

Bought a 2006 Roadtrek 210 Popular on the Chevy Express platform today, likely to replace the single axle Jayco travel trailer that has been more awkward to use than we thought it would be. It's in okay shape for its age, I'll need to replace a little bit of Roadtrek's underside bracketry near the aft end, but the Chevrolet frame, suspension, and other metal is great.

Runs strong, 6.0L V8. Tires are a bit long in the tooth, probably won't get more than a season out of them. I'm debating doing the dually retrofit when it's time for replacing the tires unless I somehow get a very good deal on the existing size and load rating. Not sure if I would do the full axle swap or just the spacers.
Welcome back.

Personally, I don't care for the way duallies handle, and on a Roadtrek it won't increase the legal load capacity except for the tires as the weight sticker sets that. Adding spacers to do a dually puts a lot load on the rear bearings and on the standard semi floating axle, axle shaft breaking has happened to 210s with rear wheel separations from the van at speed with the standard axle. The trailer tow optional full floating axle has no such issues. IMO opinion a full floating swap would be necessary if doing a dually conversion.

If you are worried about tire loading on a 210 that is smart as they are heavy in the rear and very easy to be running right at the max tire loading.

You can increase the tire capacity by 370# per wheel on a 210 chevy by changing to larger tires and wider rims with no axle replacement. Tires and wheels of the correct offset are available in both 16" and 17" size to do that. The swaps and parts are well documented on here. We did the 16" big tire sway a decade ago and the 17" one just recently and both work great. You get a 12% increase in safety factor over the stock tires which is significant when near max load.
 
You can increase the tire capacity by 370# per wheel on a 210 chevy by changing to larger tires and wider rims with no axle replacement. Tires and wheels of the correct offset are available in both 16" and 17" size to do that. The swaps and parts are well documented on here. We did the 16" big tire sway a decade ago and the 17" one just recently and both work great. You get a 12% increase in safety factor over the stock tires which is significant when near max load.
I'll look into it. It's running LT245/75R16 on the stock Chevrolet Express wheels right now. I think the factory offset brings the wheels inbound of center something like 25mm or around an inch, so a wheel with zero offset might help a tad as well. In contrast the stock tire on my Frontier was a 265/70/16, while not an LT tire it was wider.

I'll also keep an eye on my local junkyards, the GMT600/GMT610 platform as 'Commercial Cutaway' upfit for plumber's vans and other trademen have been popular around here, U-haul is headquartered here, and a lot of short school buses used this platform locally, so I might well be able to get an axle for the back and the dually factory front wheel spacers for a reasonable price. Will obviously need to check axle total width, width at the point of the inner sidewalls, and the axle perch width to confirm fitment, plus if there are any funky issues with pinion length at the differential and any oddities with different U-joint dimensions.

I'd kind of been hoping to find some takeoffs on the local classifieds but that seemed to dry up as soon as I had the RV in my driveway. Go figure.
 
The factory wheels are +28 offset and the bearing hubs are made to put the wheel where it belongs within the suspension. We have run +28 with 265-75-16 tires without hitting issues and have also run +28 wheels with 265-70-17 tires without issue and that is what is on the van in my picture member pic on this post. Both of these sizes are available in 3415# load rating compared to the 3032# if the stock 245-75-16 tires.

It is possible that the zero offset wheels would give more chance of hitting the fender lips when turning because the turning arc around the balljoint is longer so it moves for and aft more distance. It would mostly be influenced by the location of the wheels in the wheelwell for and aft as alignment and factory poor tolerances can make it vary quite a bit. Our passenger side wheel was 5/8" more to the rear of the van than the driver side, which I just corrected by moving the lower control arm mounting to the frame.

The cutaway chassis is different from the full bodied vans and the rear axle width is on of the differences and perhaps the spring perch locations also so it might take a bunch of modifications to do it.

There is one discussion on here where a guy did a dually conversion on a Roadtrek IIRC 210 and he had a rear axle from a later model so you might want to check out what he had to do.
 
Yeah, I've toyed with offsets before, back when we just used the term backspacing. It looks like from some of the various threads on here that Roadtrek experimented with wheels at almost zero offset at times, but obviously I'd need to get underneath to have a look. When I lift and put larger diameter tires onto 4wd trucks I tend to not change offset because I'd rather not cut out sheet metal to clear the body.

I was a little unclear as to how much of this vehicle is commercial cutaway and how much is normal factory Express. It kind of looks like the frame humps over the rear axle like a normal van would, as opposed to having a flat frame like a cab-and-chassis model. So much of the body is fiberglass that it seems silly to buy a whole van to cut most of it off, but then again the side door seems to attach to a factory-type B-pillar. It also seems odd that they went with the stock rear doors and inset them in like they did. I'd been looking at "Wideone" RVs from the eighties and they obviously took a different approach for a widebody van.
 
The factory wheels are +28 offset and the bearing hubs are made to put the wheel where it belongs within the suspension. We have run +28 with 265-75-16 tires without hitting issues and have also run +28 wheels with 265-70-17 tires without issue and that is what is on the van in my picture member pic on this post. Both of these sizes are available in 3415# load rating compared to the 3032# if the stock 245-75-16 tires.
Yours are the "Option N89" 17x7.5 6 spokes?
 
I think that N89 is the generic RPO code for optional aluminum wheels on GM vehicles but not certain on that so that is probably what would be on a donor GMC pickup.

They were used on a number of GMC vehicles from 2000-2010.

GMC wheel information

Here is a thread discussing the aftermarket replica wheels, which is what you do not want as they don't have adequate load capacity.

Replica GMC wheels
 
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I think that N89 is the generic RPO code for optional aluminum wheels on GM vehicles but not certain on that so that is probably what would be on a donor GMC pickup.

They were used on a number of GMC vehicles from 2000-2010.

GMC wheel information

Here is a thread discussing the aftermarket replica wheels, which is what you do not want as they don't have adequate load capacity.

Replica GMC wheels
Gotcha. I was using the online automotive junkyard association catalog at car-part.com to browse wheels by-model/year. Looks like there are two RPO codes for the last generation of GM trucks and SUVs for 17" aluminum 8 on 6.5 wheels on predominantly "2500" models, a six-spoke and a five-spoke. The six-spoke is a bit more attractive but locally it looks like five-spokes are what's available.
 
Yep, you got it. The 6 spoke is the GMC wheel and we got them because of the looks. There are not anywhere near as many of them out there, but sometimes they are cheaper than the Chevy version which is the 5 spoke. Up here in Minnesota most junk yard wheels are pretty salt ravaged, and these are no exception. I wound up getting reconditioned and the look really nice. In your area you may find some nice ones.
 
I came across this 210 for sale about 6 weeks ago. I've seen a couple dually conversions in the last 18 months, but I thought this was a very nice dually conversion to one of the wide body Roadtreks, so I kept a picture of it. This is what your 210 could look like.............
Roadtrek 2012 w duallys.jpg
 
That looks close, but it's a different one. The one on here (which I hadn't seen before) is a 2018 and the one I found was 2012 converted by the original owner. But they look nearly identical, only with a slight difference between the two pictures.
 
That looks like it is the one that is documented here on how it was done.

Dualie conversion
That's the thread that got me seriously thinking about it, even before I bought my 210.

There's also a video on Youtube of a guy who converted a Dodge B-series Xplorer 230 widebody with apparently Ford 8 on 6.5 dually wheels, but he didn't get into a whole lot of detail and it sounded like he used more conventional spacers to do it rather than any sort of axle modifications.

For considering going dual, I would need to take measurements, make some assumptions about clearance and suspension travel, and measure how far the center of the combined wheels would move versus the center of the stock offset SRW setup. Since road surfaces tend to crown rather than dish, I expect that inner tires would see ever so slightly more of the load on average than the outers, but I'd want to see just how much as a percentage would change going from the 245 section width to the much, much wider width of a dually setup. If it turns out that the effective change even with proper quality steel spacers is not extreme then going duals is just a matter of getting wheels, tires, and the necessary steel spacers. If the change is significant then any benefits of the wider track width, additional contact patch, and redundant support might not be enough compared to the issues with strain on the bearings and the potential for spacer failure.
 
That looks close, but it's a different one. The one on here (which I hadn't seen before) is a 2018 and the one I found was 2012 converted by the original owner. But they look nearly identical, only with a slight difference between the two pictures.
I can't spot any difference if I'm honest. Even the deleted roadtrek markings on the aft sides are the same. I could see someone trying to do something unsavory misrepresenting pictures they found elsewhere, but those are so similar that I am not convinced that they aren't the exact same van.
 
I used to watch a YouTube channel where the guys would build custom off road rock crawlers where they were constantly swapping frames and axles between Ford and Chevy's and all sorts of other things. One of the guys made a comment where they said that the frames for dually's are narrower than single rear wheel frames and that the spring mount position on the axle is different between them. I do not know if the frames are different or not and can't confirm any of this data, but a couple items to consider before purchasing any axle:

- Width of the springs used compared to what's on your van, and also the width of the spring mounts to accept the dually springs on your frame (if changing springs).
- Distance between spring mounts on the frame (if changing springs).
- Location of the shock mounts on both axles, and also the spring mount location on the axle.
- Length of the driveshaft and U-Joint mounting/configuration.

There's probably another item or two, but all I'm saying is that this may or may not be a simple bolt in installation and depending on which chassis the donor axle comes from, there may be more work than if it comes from an Express chassis.
 
The guy that did the one here used and Amecrican Axle full floating rear from a later year Express 3500 single wheel per him selling another of the same axle he had. It was a single wheel axle so he must have used spacers in the rear.
 
I used to watch a YouTube channel where the guys would build custom off road rock crawlers where they were constantly swapping frames and axles between Ford and Chevy's and all sorts of other things. One of the guys made a comment where they said that the frames for dually's are narrower than single rear wheel frames and that the spring mount position on the axle is different between them. I do not know if the frames are different or not and can't confirm any of this data, but a couple items to consider before purchasing any axle:

- Width of the springs used compared to what's on your van, and also the width of the spring mounts to accept the dually springs on your frame (if changing springs).
- Distance between spring mounts on the frame (if changing springs).
- Location of the shock mounts on both axles, and also the spring mount location on the axle.
- Length of the driveshaft and U-Joint mounting/configuration.

There's probably another item or two, but all I'm saying is that this may or may not be a simple bolt in installation and depending on which chassis the donor axle comes from, there may be more work than if it comes from an Express chassis.

When a truck is constructed as a cab and chassis it's not uncommon to design to some kind of gentlemen's agreement for a frame width that most of the manufacturers and upfitters use, a frame that is actually narrower than what a manufacturer chooses for their bed-equipped pickup trucks. Due to that narrower frame, a narrower dually axle can be used. Since pickup trucks usually try to lower the bed floor as much as possible leaving wheel wells that protrude into the bed, they want the frame to be as wide as they can achieve at the rear axle to allow for the widest possible load between the wheel wells.

I have not personally witnessed a truck manufacturer go with a different frame width for a given weight rating (ie '150/1500', '250/2500', or '350/3500') for their factory bed equipped trucks when SRW or DRW, but admittedly I haven't seen all of the brands from all of the manufacturers either. But it would follow that if the SRW and DRW beds have the same inside bed sheet metal, then a cab and chassis narrow dually axle wouldn't be wide enough for either the frame or the wheel wells into the inside of the bed.

I've found some supposed claims of "Bible of fourteen-bolt rear ends!" sort of sites but they still don't seem to be truly comprehensive.

From the information I've found, supposedly a GM truck platform dually has a rear axle that's 72" wide, while the axle in the Express (not necessarily the cab and chassis!) is 70" wide. That difference is minor enough that if a very small spacer is all that it takes to clear the frame and fiberglass RV wheel wells towards the inside, that I would be willing to live with. That wouldn't be putting so much strain on those wheel bearings where the duty cycle of an RV would roast them prematurely. But if it takes a much thicker spacer, that would be a problem.

The guy that did the one here used and Amecrican Axle full floating rear from a later year Express 3500 single wheel per him selling another of the same axle he had. It was a single wheel axle so he must have used spacers in the rear.

I'll need to dig in to the model year differences of the production run. His was something like a 2012, mine's a 2006, there could be important differences in how GM built the base vehicle. Or his research might have not gone back as far as my van either, and there could be no differences of distinction. The latter wouldn't surprise me at all if GM expected to sell these to upfitters generally, anything that they could leave the same would be better for their customers unless there was something wrong with what they had.
 
From the information I've found, supposedly a GM truck platform dually has a rear axle that's 72" wide, while the axle in the Express (not necessarily the cab and chassis!) is 70" wide. That difference is minor enough that if a very small spacer is all that it takes to clear the frame and fiberglass RV wheel wells towards the inside, that I would be willing to live with. That wouldn't be putting so much strain on those wheel bearings where the duty cycle of an RV would roast them prematurely. But if it takes a much thicker spacer, that would be a problem.
Re the wheel bearing load changes you have to remember that dual wheels move the load center out a lot just by themselves. I don't know how wide a set of dual wheels and tires is that would be used but probably 16" or so and that would move the load point by half a tire width plus half the duallie gap. If the reversed wheel can't have clearance to inside because of the frame it also has to be spaced out and it might be more than the 2" because of the big offset of the inside wheel, than you have to add the the width divided in half to get the point where the load center is. Again without measurements I could see it getting to quite a ways outboard and probably way, way to far for the already overtaxed Dana Super 60 semifloater. There is a reason the guy who did the one on here switched to a full floater with it's much larger double bearing hub and a non weight carrying axle shaft. With a 265-70-17 single tire on our van with the stock +28mm offset the tire gets pretty close to the spring.
 

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