2006 RT 190 P Roof Paint delamination

[sbslider]

While washing and waxing my camper yesterday I discovered an area the size of a bottle cap that had a small hole in the middle, with the pain delaminated around it. I'd like to stop this before it spreads, and at least in the near term not repaint the whole top (or the whole van). I'm sure if this has top has been previously been repainted, as there is also pain that is peeling along the seal between the top and the van body. The previous owner commented that someone before his must have repainted the top at a minimum, or perhaps the top and the van together. The camper is in good shape overall.

 

[booster]

That looks familiar, our 07 190 had similar. The only decent way that hold up over time for fiberglass delamination is to grind it out and reglass it. You don't go all the way through, just far enough to find all the "dry glass" and get it out. best is to lay fiberglass matt and resin in the repair and final fill with chop glass water proof body filler. The filler use to be "kitty glass" brand but now PPG pretty much owns the market for it.

Just get rattle can primer and paint as the roof doesn't really show much anyway.

 

[sbslider]

Thanks for the prompt response booster. I want to make sure I understand what you wrote before I start.

"dry glass" - I'm assuming this is the damaged fiberglass (if any) under the paint. Any idea what thickness of fiberglass there is to start with?

Assuming a decent amount of fiberglass is removed, then add fiberglass mat and resin - I've done this on surfboard repairs before, it's never been pretty. I imagine there are different materials to use for a vehicle, maybe this?

Then after the glass and mat, something like this? or if its very shallow, perhaps only this?

primer is straight forward. unfortunately its near the edge on the driver side, but that's how it goes for now.

 

[booster]

Dry glass is the common description of the problem they can run into with chop glass fiberglass manufacturing. The spray a mix of resin and glass fibers into a mold. If they don't get enough resin coming out at some point their isn't enough to bond the glass fibers together. When you go to grind it out the glass is kind of loose and not adhered well. It is different from the thought of delamination of sheet glass buildup fiberglass where the different layers actually separate.
I was at the upper rear area near the vent fan opening and the glass was 3/16-3/8" thick but hard to tell for sure because of the dry glass issue.
Yep you get out all the loose stuff and probably will have enough space for a least on glass sheet layer well soaked with resin.
I couldn't tell what finishing filler they showed by you want short strand fiberglass filler like your first link, which is waterproof and it won't crack like using just resin to fill and level. It sands hard, but gives a very nice finish. I even use in on regular bodywork if it in and area where there and seams or holes for moldings or were drilled to pull a panel out. Regular filler will soak water from the back and rust under the paint.
So just like the surf board but probably needs to finish off a bit nicer