2008 Roadtrek 210P media cabinet wiring and equipment

[youngnretired]

My wife and I just bought a 2008 Chevy Roadtrek 210 popular. First time owning anything like this. Previous owner removed the tv and AV equipment from the media cabinet as the TV was junk. Only items left are the equipment that's mounted to the top and sides of the cabinet, coiled up black coax cable, white coax, and a group of 13 multi colored wires. I want to install a 12v TV and necessary equipment to be able to use the factory speakers. I'm looking for:

1. Anyone have an equipment list if what I should install in this cabinet with manufacturers and part numbers to connect to the existing speakers? I know I'll need the TV, 12V to 19V converter and something to connect to the existing speakers. I plan to use a DVD player and/or stream from my phone to the TV, but not use the coax or antenna. Anyone install a radio system in this cabinet to work with the TV system?

2. According to the roadtrek manaul, 12v DC circuit #9 should be in the media cabinet. Anyone know which 2 wire colors these would be from the grouping of 13?

3. Anyone have a diagram or listing of wire colors that would show what color wires run to what speakers?

Thanks.

 

[booster]

If you have the surround sound option, which you probably do if you have built in speakers. You should have a subwoofer and 5 satellite speakers, two in the front 3 in the back. Our 07 190 had the same.

The 12v wiring is probably red positive, with green ground, and white or yellow negative, but you will need to check all that with a meter to a 12 source from the battery or inverter section. There probably are not any drawings available unless somebody made one and Roadtrek changed stuff a lot.

The big bundle of small wires is likely for the speakers and it probably goes, or used to go to, and rotary switch that selected vehicle radio or surround sound unit. It is a multipole, probably about 8-10 poles stack in the back and the wiring is horrendous to do. Add that the wiring may be incorrect, or 190 was wrong, Roadtrek admitted they went out bad, but they would not give me a wiring diagram. The said to to the dealer, who said they can't get a diagram either and Roadtrek wouldn't pay as many hours as it would take to figure out. I spent a week testing to get it right then found it had a bad ground on one of the front speakers so I had to take the tray above the driver door out to find it and fix it. Of course then the junk surround sound/dvd player died shortly after that so we replaced it with another brand.

We did put in a 12v TV for a while with a voltage stabilizer, but good ones are hard to find and new AC TVs aren't native 12v anymore so can't just cut off the wall brick any longer on most. We also had a 12v DVD player and there also very few good ones now so they last only a year or two.

I finally did a bunch of power use tests, some are in discussions here on the forum and discovered that you can use an AC TV that has low power use with a small inverter and and actually use the same, or less, power than you do with a 12v TV on a voltage stabilizer. It also gave us the option of using a 110v home Blu Ray player that also has USB input if we wanted, but we went with just plain BluRay that had very low power use as we already had a USB adapter to feed the TV directly. We ran it through the surround sound for a while but the amp unit is AC only and very power hungry. We now use a nice soundbar direct off the TV that is AC powered. All the AC stuff is powered through a 340(?) watt very efficient inverter in the same cabinet.

You will probably have a very hard time finding a replacement unit of the same style as Roadtrek used. We did find one about 5 years ago but it was difficult. The only stuff that fit was from the old dorm room style 5 speaker small surround sound systems that they don't make anymore. I have the one I removed when we went AC only sitting and waiting for me to take it to recycling if you want it. I don't know if I still have the multiposition rotary switch or not, but probably not.

In my opinion, you would be time, money, and frustration if you either use the surround sound speakers from another source but I don't know if you could do that without an AC unit to drive them all and then you have to have that on the big, inefficient Tripplite in the van or an added one. IMO, the speakers weren't all that great anyway and they can't place them for real surround sound in that space either.

If you are looking to be more efficient in battery use, which is likely because you want 12v TV, using the surround sound shoots that down, I think, as it will use lots of power.

A small 110v system with TV, DVD, and a sound bar running on a small inverter would use a tiny fraction of the power the surround sound on the Tripplite would use when not plugged in.

We have had pretty much all the other options at one time or another and the one we have now is AC only and on small inverter has been the easiest to use, most efficient for having better than TV speakers, and has been totally reliable over several years now.

If you do decide to use the built in speakers, I would ditch the multiposition switch and only input the surround sound amp outputs for speakers without the van radio option as with van radio on while driving all the speakers except the lowest range ones are in the back of the van. I would be able to give you a basic procedure for identifying all the wires after you take them off the rotary switch or find where it was. It is not a simple task but is better if you have two people.

 

[TX-Trek]

I replaced the failed dvd/entertainment unit in our 2010 with this:

Its a tight fit but it works well. I used foam board on the bottom to make up for any gap, and brackets to keep it in place.
We have the 6 speaker system - I tossed the rotary switch and used a AA battery to trace the speaker wiring so I knew which speaker was which. There's videos on how to do this, very easy.
I then connected it all up, works fine. It has A,B, C zones so I connected two speakers to each zone. I can select rear, middle or front or all speakers.
Our aftermarket dash unit just uses the factory door speakers, I replaced those with better versions.
We have a Visio 110v TV in the van that's also connected to this unit for dvd.
Fairly simple but it works for our needs. 99% of our use is cd/usb music when at a campsite. The other 1% is dvd if we're caught waiting out a very rainy day.

 

[Johnnyfry]

My wife and I just bought a 2008 Chevy Roadtrek 210 popular. First time owning anything like this. Previous owner removed the tv and AV equipment from the media cabinet as the TV was junk. Only items left are the equipment that's mounted to the top and sides of the cabinet, coiled up black coax cable, white coax, and a group of 13 multi colored wires. I want to install a 12v TV and necessary equipment to be able to use the factory speakers. I'm looking for:

1. Anyone have an equipment list if what I should install in this cabinet with manufacturers and part numbers to connect to the existing speakers? I know I'll need the TV, 12V to 19V converter and something to connect to the existing speakers. I plan to use a DVD player and/or stream from my phone to the TV, but not use the coax or antenna. Anyone install a radio system in this cabinet to work with the TV system?

2. According to the roadtrek manaul, 12v DC circuit #9 should be in the media cabinet. Anyone know which 2 wire colors these would be from the grouping of 13?

3. Anyone have a diagram or listing of wire colors that would show what color wires run to what speakers?

Thanks.

I have a 08C210P RoadTrek which has (and still mostly does) have the original A/V system. Unfortunately RT used a Canadian (Electrohome, I believe) combination DVD player/Dolby decoder/6 channel amplifier. It runs on 120 VAC. I have been looking at various combination of 12 volt automotive amplifiers but have been unable to find a multi channel decoder (Dolby or otherwise). I replaces the original TV with a 20 inch Skyworth 12 volt model. Skyworth is intended for for long distance trucker market and is sold through Truck stops and Amazon. It is 12 volt native and I run it directly off the 12 volt line as it is designed for vehicular use. I have never had a problem with it. It has a built in DVD player which works well. In my case I run the headphone jack output to the Electrohome. There is a switch on the roof of the AV Cabinet which will allow the front vehicle radio to play in the rear, a feature we use all the time as we have Sirius/XM and use it a lot more than the TV. I also installed a switch to allow the car stereo to play through the speakers just above Driver/Passenger heads. That is an improvement over having only the speakers in the doors. I wish that I could tell you that there is a 12 volt drop in for the Elecreohome, unfortunately I have been unable to locate a substitute. I have attached a PDF of the speaker wiring.

 

[GeorgeRad]

A while back, 2014 I installed LG TV PA77U projector and pulled down 35” screen. It takes minimum space at the ceiling, can be powered by 12VDC or 120 VAC. Light source for the projector is LED and image is formed by reflecting light from TI’s DMD (Digital Mirror Device) so power draw is only about 100W. Projector is mounted on rails to accommodate multiple screen positions. The projector can accept separate DVD/HDMI or an USB memory gadget. Sound is from built in speakers which are not great but sufficient for a small van.

 

[wmgeorge]

When we got our used 2008 210P I had the same task, removing al the stuff and cabling. Installed a new digital off the air Ant. redid the wiring in the cabinet and non working, never hooked up Winegard on the roof. I still have the new guts to the Winegard and the rest. The place that sold that Ant did not have a clue., it was never hooked to power! I have all that "free" to someone for the shipping.

 

[youngnretired]

Thanks for all the responses. I'm just at the beginning of research to install something. We're doing route 66 this fall, and I at least want a working TV that I can play Hulu from my phone. I can deal with TV speakers initially, but it would just be nice if I could connect to the speakers in the unit. And yes, it does have the 5 speaker surround system selector switch in it. I discovered that just before posting my original post and the cab radio does work on the rear two speakers.

Booster, is there any way that you could post some pictures of the surround sound system with pictures of the rear connections etc that you haven't tossed out yet, and maybe the model number? I have no idea what equipment was in this cabinet to even have any idea of where to start at this time. Maybe just hold it a bit longer for me to figure out what I'm doing?

TX-Trek, what is the model number of that unit?

Johnnyfry, excellent spreadsheet and suggestion on the TV. I've printed this and will check out what you have listed to my wire colors to see if anything matches.

GeorgeRad, at this time, I'm not too interested in mounting anything to the ceiling, unfortunately, but thank you for the idea.

 

[booster]

Here you go. On edit, I just went out and looked at ours. The multi switch is still there as is the wiring and the connectors for the speaker outputs. I would need to untape and pull out the harness enough to see what color Roadtrek used for it. If it is the same as yours, I would be able to find out the wire colors by speaker as the plugs are color coded. Hard to get at right now because I have the bed mattress leaning up against the cabinet while I do the inverter/charger changes. There are more wires than just the speakers in the harness, I think by the size of the harness so would have to be careful about cutting them out with the original colors with it and then cap them all. If your switch is still in place with all the connections on it, you would be able to splice in the plugs and the unit would work, I think, unless yours is wired wrong in the switch like ours was and in that case you would probably need the switch to see what moved compared to yours,

 

[booster]

I managed to get enough tape off the wiring at the receiver plugs to see where they think they are going.

Please be aware that ours had the switch wired with some things miswired and I don't recall if I swapped them at the switch or at the plugs (which is much easier). The plugs are the ones that plug into the receiver in my pix.

Blue plug...rear left...green and blk green wires
Green plug...center front....yellow and Blk yellow wires
Purple plug...sub...brown and blk brown wires
White plug...front left...white and blk white wires
Green plug....right rear...blue and blk blue
Red plug....front right...red and blk red

 

[youngnretired]

Thanks for the additional info. If the factory speaker wiring is supposed to have plugs on the end of them, that's missing on ours. Thanks to the idea from TX-trek, I used a battery to determine the wiring to the various speakers. Initial wire color code pdf is attached. Booster, most of the wiring pairs on mine were the same as your pairs, just the front and rear speakers were wired opposite of your listing. But, at least I have a clue on what's going on.

I have one unidentified wire with a terminal on the end. There may have been a second wire coming off the two pole terminal, but there is definitely only one conductor in the black wiring going to it. Anyone know what this was for? This is the only unidentified wire that's in the media cabinet, and if it's supposed to be 12V positive, I'm missing the negative wire. According to the Roadtrek manual, DC circuit #9 should be in the media cabinet, but I'm not finding it.

On a side note and off topic, anyone know where the inverter is in the 210 Populars? The receptacles in the media cabinet (except microwave) and the one above the sink don't have power to them when plugged in and inverter turned on. That's next on the list to start digging into.

 

[booster]

Thanks for the additional info. If the factory speaker wiring is supposed to have plugs on the end of them, that's missing on ours. Thanks to the idea from TX-trek, I used a battery to determine the wiring to the various speakers. Initial wire color code pdf is attached. Booster, most of the wiring pairs on mine were the same as your pairs, just the front and rear speakers were wired opposite of your listing. But, at least I have a clue on what's going on.

I have one unidentified wire with a terminal on the end. There may have been a second wire coming off the two pole terminal, but there is definitely only one conductor in the black wiring going to it. Anyone know what this was for? This is the only unidentified wire that's in the media cabinet, and if it's supposed to be 12V positive, I'm missing the negative wire. According to the Roadtrek manual, DC circuit #9 should be in the media cabinet, but I'm not finding it.

On a side note and off topic, anyone know where the inverter is in the 210 Populars? The receptacles in the media cabinet (except microwave) and the one above the sink don't have power to them when plugged in and inverter turned on. That's next on the list to start digging into.

The front and rear thing is probably what I must have rewired on the switch and that would make them opposite for you if yours is also wired wrong at the switch.

I think the only thing that was 12v in the audio cabinet for us was the antenna booster. I have seem tiny plugs like that were for radio antenna connections, though. It is a pretty small wire to carry much 12v power at all.

 

[TX-Trek]

On our 2010P the inverter, battery (solenoid) switch and interior water tank are under the passenger side couch/bed wood base. The electrical stuff is in front of the rear wheel well under the base.

The water pump and related valves are under the drivers side couch/bed base, also in front of the rear wheel well.

There should be hinged access panels on the top of each base to get to that stuff.

A thought. Check the electrical panel circuit breakers and the gfi outlet above the sink to verify nothing has tripped. Do they work when plugged into shore power?

 

[youngnretired]

Previous owner had the fridge replaced, and they added a cooling fan to the external fins. It's possible the DC#9 circuit got used to run those. I'll have to pull the fuse sometime when that cooling fan is running and see. I just need more time in the unit to mess with things.

Regarding the inverter, thanks for the location. I do know that when I plug in shore power, I hear a fan run for about a minute that appears to be back by the interior tank. I've not disassembled the electrical panel to verify that I have 120V coming off the breaker, but I've cycled it and I do not have incoming 120V at the kitchen receptacle. When I turn the inverter on, I do not hear any click for any type of contactor energizing like I do when I turn the coach batteries on. I'll dig into this in a few when I have time.

 

[TX-Trek]

Do the fridge fans come on when the fridge is turned on? I ask because the PO had installed three 12v dc fans on our Dometic, but they are separately (manually) switched on or off. As Booster mentioned that black wire you found is awfully small gauge for fridge fans, even if they are essentially computer fans.

I've not heard the same relay click on our Tripplite inverter as the battery switch, all I hear is its fan come on. So I think that "lack of click" you (don't) hear is normal. There should be a junction box, like an outlet box back there by the inverter. You should be able to use basic diagnosis process to first see if power is coming out of the inverter, then trace to the outlet. These RV outlets are different from home outlets in how the wiring is attached - it works but I've never really liked it.

And yes, you should probably verify power to and from the 110v breakers at the panel. And don't forget that sometimes the gfi outlets fail.

I don't know if you have had this issue, but quite often if you plug your van into a 110v outlet (using adapter for your 30a cable) it will trip the gfi or the main breaker. We keep our van in the garage and I puzzled over this, as I wanted to plug it in sometimes to charge the batteries or to run the fridge before a trip. Internet sleuthing yielded info that the van doesn't have an earth ground - the breaker/gfi sees this as a lack of ground and trips. But if you turn on BOTH the battery switch and the inverter, there's no issue. For some reason the circuit reads a ground circuit. We've used this method for years and it works fine.

 

[youngnretired]

Our fridge exterior fan cycles on/off, so I think it's on a thermal switch. Even after i turn the fridge off, the fan still runs. I assume that when the fridge is on, and on at least gas, the flame is constantly on like our popup. If so, then there's a thermal switch in there somewhere. We're using it this weekend, so when I get it home, I'm going to pull the upper fridge grill off and look at the fan setup.

Only time the fan comes on is when I plug in to shore power. Then it runs for about a minute. Turning the inverter on (either on battery or when shore power is connected after the first minute) does not have the fan come on.

I will start to troubleshoot more on this as soon as I can.

I've not had a gfi trip when connecting to shore power, that I'm aware of, and never had the main trip. When I connect to shore power, the fridge goes to AC and the clocks on the micro and coffee maker come on. That's as much that I know comes on. Haven't figured or seen anything else yet.

 

[TX-Trek]

Not meaning tripping regular 30amp shore power, but if you connect to a 110v duplex outlet. That's when the inverter trick might come in handy.

The things that come on when connecting to shore power sound about right. I assume you've got battery switch on.

In addition to this forum, this website helped me understand a lot about our RT:

Meryl and Me Hit the Road

Roadtrek 190 Class B RV motorhome how tos, life and travel in an RV and Roadtrek, motorhome vacations.

roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com

There's different sections on how-to's, living in it, etc. Might be of interest.

 

[youngnretired]

I understand on what you said connecting to shore power.

I have read a lot of their postings and have implemented some of their suggestions for our use.

Thanks,

 

[youngnretired]

Just to give everyone an update, I got the receptacles working from the inverter. Not to bore anyone, but it was that GFI in the kitchen. It took me a long time to get to that though. I chased a 100.5V output at the inverter, 0V at the electrical panel. I check the wiring diagram and dip switch settings, fuses at the inverter contactor, the Roadtrek wiring diagram and nothing learned from any that. So I plug it in to shore power. Now I have 120V coming out of the inverter, 120V at the panel. So I went to the kitchen receptacle and find another hot conductor there that I didn't previously see, and I have 120V there, so I replaced the GFI. Now I've got 120V at the receptacles when connected to shore power, and 100.5V at the receptacles when the inverter is on battery only.

It ended up being a long process just to replace a receptacle, but I've got a little more data in my head for what's going on electrical wise in these things.

 

[TX-Trek]

Sounds like a good thorough diagnostic process to me, with good result.

 

[booster]

Sounds like a good thorough diagnostic process to me, with good result.

Does it still have the Tripplite inverter charger in it. If so, it has a pretty poor modified sine wave inverter in it, probably why your meter is seeing 100v so it can't accurately read the non sign wave power. You might find any new electronics won't run great or at all on the inverter.