5000 btu ac

[RT-NY]

Would a small, 5,000 btu, air conditioner cool an RT 170? It is a small space so it fits the square footage rating, but, with the summer sun shining on the van, it does heat up fast.

Also, in the Roadtreks that have the AC inside the van (under the fiberglass roof cap), am I correct in my understanding that any condensate that drips from the AC is supposed to be contained by metal plate with a lip around it that is under the AC? Or is there some kind of drainage?

 

[youngnretired]

I think the problem with a 5000btu AC system is that it's likely too small to cool down the inside if you park somewhere, take a short drove back to your campsite and then expect the AC to cool it down. Everything inside is hot, and 5000btu just isn't going to cut it during the daytime and in the sun. If it's already cool inside, it may maintain the temperature, but I think it wouldn't end up keeping it cool.

We went to moline, IL a few weeks back with our 08210p. After sitting in the sun all day until 2pm, we drove back 30 minutes to the campground and connected to shore power. 90 minutes later, it wasn't really any cooler inside, but it was still in the sun. It was 88 outside.

The AC drain pan should have holes in the pan under the AC where the condensate will run down the area under the AC and run out the back over the rear doors.

 

[phantomjock]

I also have a 170 (Popular). I did a Cool Cat-removal. It was not functioning when we bought the van and knew it would be "on the list." I replaced with an 8000 BTU unit. As described there is a pan and drain setup that is built into the roof structure. youngandretired has described it (in the above post).

As I prepared to choose a unit I did a lot of searching. I created a spreadsheet (not totally complete but may be useful for your decision-making. Also a 3 view with some dimensions of the unit we bought.

The installation wasn't a "breeze" but never got much above being a Mild-PITA. The biggest problem with mounting a window unit in the overhead compartment is their design. They are designed to push air up and the unit is already "up." We hang a deflector on the shower track to help move air to the bed.

The fitment did require some extra thinking to ensure the remaining cabinet doors would still open. They do. (WHEW--Dodged that bullet!)

I'm preparing for a trip next week, so I'm on "shore power in the driveway and will do a bit of Real World Testing today and tomorrow. It will just be parked in open sun - no shade, Reflectix covers in windows - and real-world Florida Panhandle sun. I'll report back at conclusion. I'll also grap some pics of the final installation and "deflector."

Meanwhile here is a pdf you can look over. Spreadsheet of units:

https://www.classbforum.com/attachments/rv-aircon-options-sizes-pdf.723345/

Dimensions of our 8000 BTU Hisense:

Cheers - Jim

 

[wmgeorge]

I am curious why people just do not repair/rebuild the existing Cool Cat units? As a retired HVAC/R guy we do that all the time with units like in hotels/ motels that are out of production. There is nothing that can not be fixed on those units, compressors fan motors and all. Sure it might be more expensive to have this done by a professional but the window unit change out looks to be a pain.

 

[RT-NY]

For my 1999 RT 170, the previous owner removed the original unit (a Fedders in that year), and converted the space to a small storage area. Oddly, it looks to me, from what I can see through the back griill, that the metal case of the old unit might still be there -- is it possible that he just removed the internals of the AC? Anyway, I won't be sure what's there until I take out the wood partitions he put in for his storage space but there is no AC to fix.

 

[RT-NY]

The AC drain pan should have holes in the pan under the AC where the condensate will run down the area under the AC and run out the back over the rear doors.

Does the AC condensate just drip out of the metal grates in the back of the roof cap then out over the rear doors or is there some other outlet in that area?

Meanwhile here is a pdf you can look over. Spreadsheet of units:

Thanks for that! It is helpful. But which unit do you end up putting in?

 

[phantomjock]

RT-NY -- I installed the 8000 BTU Hisense. Was able to get a mil/vet discount at HD so brought it in under $400 as I recall.

wmgeorge - I understand rebuilding the compressor etc to "save" an out of production unit. But will it make more BTUs without upgrades? What about adding a soft-start? Pricing comes down to almost a wash for a new unit. The added advantage of newer technology provides an inverter system and the lower watts we required. What are the sound levels of a Cool Cat? With a generator? I can't speak to those questions as we have removed both non-functioning units.

Our objective is to cool down - to take the edge off and be able to do it in a dispersed setting - with no generator. Big demands for a stock setup in an RT 170. That's why I spent time sizing the system; Consumption, Capacity, and Charging and then the effort to upgrade.

There are a lot of ways to "resolve" the heat/cooling of a van. We chose one we are happy with.

Cheers - Jim

 

[jjrbus]

I am curious why people just do not repair/rebuild the existing Cool Cat units? As a retired HVAC/R guy we do that all the time with units like in hotels/ motels that are out of production. There is nothing that can not be fixed on those units, compressors fan motors and all. Sure it might be more expensive to have this done by a professional but the window unit change out looks to be a pain.

Window unit change out is a bit of a pain! Now I have a nice quiet, energy sipping unit with remote control. Also instead of gluing it in with a 5 gallon pail of caulk, I mechanically fastened it in and sealed it with Eternabond tape so can replace it in a couple hours. Here in Florida if you could find someone to work on a unit I cannot imagine what it would cost.

I have no illusions that this unit will last 15 or 20 years like back in the good old days.

 

[RT-NY]

... instead of gluing it in with a 5 gallon pail of caulk, I mechanically fastened it in and sealed it with Eternabond tape so can replace it in a couple hours.

Was this in a Roadtrek? How did you fasten the new unit in? I am wondering how I am going to do that, given that I expect the new unit will be smaller than than the original.

 

[youngnretired]

this may help???

Roadtrek 210P AC Changeout

 

[RT-NY]

this may help???

Roadtrek 210P AC Changeout

Thanks for that reference! The 210 is different because you install the AC from the outside (I guess there is a panel in the back the can be removed). In the 170 (also, I believe, the 190), you do the install from the inside of the van.

 

[youngnretired]

Now that you mention it, I do remember reading a thread somewhere a while back where someone changed the AC from inside and it seemed like a decent thread. I didn't catch that it wasn't a 210 and that there is a difference. I looked briefly here for that thread, and didn't find it. Not saying it wasn't on this forum, but somewhere I did find it. It had pictures and other good info. Maybe try googling for it? If I remember correctly, I was searching for locations for leaks below the AC unit in the rear.

 

[phantomjock]

A pic of my install on our 170P. Cheezy aluminum fittings to get us on the road right after I finished it. One of those, "I'll get to it later, Dear..." Maybe a nice piece of teak?

You might note I modified the black grill to twist slightly downward. Cut some of the stops, but still not enough to effectively turn the flow more downwards. As it is now, without any diffuser (towel draped over compression rod, the cockpit cools down very quick. That part should be easy to scan, and run a 3D Print. I do need some justification to get one of those...I might be looking at it.

Took this pic this morning as I began our test run. I plan on 10-12 hours today. Measuring cabin at the pillow, the rear window with cover in, the OAT, and the cockpit temp.

Tomorrow, I plan a test beginning at 1500, crank it down real cold and check a 3 hour run. I'll do it on shore power, but calculate the watt-hour use and make some assumptions.

As to the install - I'll look for some pics - I'm pretty sure I snapped some.

Cheers - Jim

 

[phantomjock]

I'll add :
TX - Trek's write up [ Roadtrek 210P AC Changeout ] was enough to just nudge me into the project. There were also a few others on the FB pages.

I've found some of our heavy lift images, I'll sort and load. Reviewing them moves me to award this project from "Sightly above a Minor PITA! to a "2-person heavy LIFT!" But its worth it in my opinion.

Cheers - Jim

 

[wmgeorge]

RT-NY -- I installed the 8000 BTU Hisense. Was able to get a mil/vet discount at HD so brought it in under $400 as I recall.

wmgeorge - I understand rebuilding the compressor etc to "save" an out of production unit. But will it make more BTUs without upgrades? What about adding a soft-start? Pricing comes down to almost a wash for a new unit. The added advantage of newer technology provides an inverter system and the lower watts we required. What are the sound levels of a Cool Cat? With a generator? I can't speak to those questions as we have removed both non-functioning units.

Our objective is to cool down - to take the edge off and be able to do it in a dispersed setting - with no generator. Big demands for a stock setup in an RT 170. That's why I spent time sizing the system; Consumption, Capacity, and Charging and then the effort to upgrade.

There are a lot of ways to "resolve" the heat/cooling of a van. We chose one we are happy with.

Cheers - Jim

Well I did some research and since I am no longer active in the trade I found shortages and price increases for new compressors. I lost track of the one source that was much cheaper as they sold surplus ones. So if you can find a new unit that fits then just replace. I am going to predict with all the tariffs there will be price increases coming!

 

[jjrbus]

this may help???

Roadtrek 210P AC Changeout

02 Roadtrek 200. I used aluminum angle fastened to the AC and solid areas, sorry no pictures. Because it is a full fiberglass body might be completely different than what you have. If you go this route take the cover off the AC to make sure you are not drilling into any freon or electrical lines.

 

[jjrbus]

Broken down old guy lifts AC onto RT by himself.