Here's my thinking. The battery acid gets into the bearing lube and causes corrosion. That's what happened to me on my original slides, even though I lubed them every year. So with the new slides I lubed them initially. Then at 1 year I cleaned the slides with water when I sprayed the battery box out. Then I blew the water out as best I could with an air gun. I set a fan to blow on the slide box for a couple hours to dry things out. Then reapplied the lubricant. Sound like a lot of work but doing it as part of cleaning off the batteries and the battery box it really wasn't that much extra effort.
This is not a bad way to handle it at all IMO, as long as the spray lube is one that clings and seals out the water and acid. I have seen slides in RVs a lot, but even more in factories that are really harsh environments.
I usually pick one of two main ways to handle slides, and both work most of the time.
Cleaning, lubing and then repeating works fine unless there is a very heavy loading of sand or abrasive that get into tracks. The rear one behind the rear wheel was like that. The killer is that folks try to cure it by using a short of spray grease into the slide and all that does is catch the sand and run it through bearing balls.
If I run into those situations or where there are corrosive vapors all the time, I will use heavy grease like chassis or wheel bearing grease and pack the track full to prevent air, water, sand, corrosive vapor from getting into it. Yep, it is messy, but you might appreciate when it is clean up time because now all the dirt is on the surface and many times you can just wipe off the grease and dirt layer and repack it full. Much messier if the dirt and water get past the grease though.
Stainless tracks and a pressure washer work great together as you use the dry lube and not worry about corrosion, only dirt, which shouldn't stick to dry lube.
