Chevy Express Van Body Lift

[markopolo-ClassB]

I copied this from the Express Savana Vans Yahoo Group.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Exp ... vana_vans/

Chevy Express Van Body Lift by miltruckman (Bill Prestin)

I just finished doing a 1/4 inch body lift on my 2003 Express van. Why only 1/4 inch you ask? Well since I installed the custom bumpers and rock sliders (like nerf bars but stronger) along the sides. I had bolted them in place with just under 1/4 inch clearance between them and the van's body.

Since then, the van's rubber body mounts have compressed a small amount. This caused the bottom edge of the sliding door to just touch the top of the nerf bar when opened. The small 1/4 inch body lift was easy to do and cost only the amount of 12 large washers 1/4 inch thick. About $25.00, and I was able to re-use the original bolts. If anyone else does a lift on one of these newer vans, All you need is 12 spacers/washers (3 inch O.D. X 5/8 I.D.) in the thickness you want and longer bolts to compensate if the lift is over 1/2 inch.

The original bolts are 5 1/4 inches long and Metric in diameter. They are pointed and the threads do not go all the way to the end. I think if I went with a 1/2 inch lift I would go with the same length of replacement bolt in grade 8, as the replacement bolts would have threads all the way to the end. This would compensate for the change in thread engagement caused by the lift. Since the bolts would not screw in quite as far. All you have to do is pull all the bolts out of one side and jack up the body in the middle of that side. Then put the washers/spacers on top of the body mounts on that side. Then put the bolts back in and make sure they are tight. Then do the other side. Only takes an hour or so.

Keep in mind, when doing a body lift. The bumpers are bolted to the frame. If you lift the body 1 inch, you now have a 1 inch larger gap between the body and the bumpers. If you lift very much it looks kind of funny with that larger gap.

Bill

 

[markopolo-ClassB]

I got to thinking about this and don't think that it would work on our conversion vans.

We've got tanks etc. bolted on underneath.

Has anyone here seen what Roadtreks lift kit for the 210 is comprised of?

What do you think is the best way to give our conversion vans a little bit more ground clearance?

 

[Whisky]

Keep in mind, when doing a body lift..

Bill

Unless, that is, you drive a Roadtrek 190V w/ground effects. Not only looks good but rides good - and - it's taken most of the concern about bottoming-out over high-crested driveways, speed bumps or hitting 18 wheeler tire chunks on the highway. Here's mine - after installing a 2 1/2" lift kit, front and back:

 

[markopolo-ClassB]

Your RT looks fantastic!

So, (just to make sure I understand) did you put two lift kits on? One for the front and one for the back?

If so, what did you use on the front? Can you post brand name etc. That 2 1/2 inches could turn out to be priceless :wink:

 

[Whisky]

Roadtrek "lift"

Perhaps I should explain that when I say "I" lifted the Van what I mean is "I had an after-market shop do the job for me".

That said, yes - 2 1/2" in the front and 2 1/2" in the rear.

The front lift was made using "Coil Spring Spacers" - Daystar (brand) and I'm not sure of the part # but it was one of these: KC09100, KC09103, KG09100, KG09101 or KF 09105. See their site at:
http://www.daystarweb.com/

Then, for the rear, we were gonna use "Add-A-Leaf" but there's not an application for the Chevy Express 3500 - so we went with "Fabtech" lift blocks. See their site at:
http://www.fabtechmotorsports.com/html/home.html

Total installation, parts and labor, was $540 - which I consider to be very reasonable (for my peace of mind - and especially after spending over $200 and about 8 hours of travel time getting my Black Tank's Slider Valve Housing replaced on a trip last August).[/url]