Cool Cat AC Replacement Options for Quieter Cooling

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Original Member Title: Cool Cat AC Replacement
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The member with a new-to-them 15C210P found the Cool Cat AC too noisy and asked whether anyone had used a newer split-style window air conditioner with the compressor separated from the interior section. Another member had no split-unit experience but reported success replacing an older Roadtrek unit with a quiet LG 10,000 BTU dual-inverter window AC that could run from a Honda 2200 in ECO mode.

Members also discussed a documented Roadtrek 210P replacement using a household window unit...
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If I went with the extension ladder route I think I would use a good nylon rope and tie it from a bottom step to the tow on the RT to keep the ladder from slipping. I also would tie it horizontally at the top. If the ladder slipped it could really do some damage to the RT and me as well.

With all that in mind, I think I would just find a lift to rent or borrow. Booster is on target.
 
I should mention, when I pulled the new AC up the ramp I made a skid/platform with a runner on each side so it could not slide off the ladder. The old one I did not care about.
1784293699356.jpeg
 
Well, that alleviates my concerns. I see bracing of the ladder and the skid. Great idea! I always wondered how I would get that thing out of there when and if I had to replace it.

I am printing out that picture and put it into my RT file. Thanks!
 
Well, that alleviates my concerns. I see bracing of the ladder and the skid. Great idea! I always wondered how I would get that thing out of there when and if I had to replace it.

I am printing out that picture and put it into my RT file. By the way, I grew up in Southern Oklahoma and the old timers that worked in the oilfields back in the early 1900s when steam power was used for drilling wells called coming up with something like that ladder slide "rigging a dingus". I still use the expression just to confuse my younger friends. In any event, this is a great idea.
 
Wish it was my idea but people have been doing it since someone tied sticks to poles to make a ladder.
 
I cut it in place using a multifunction tool. I lay tape to get a straight edge and allowed about 1/8 more in the opening for the aluminum edge trim.
Please note that warning I included - the reciprocating blade of the tool can overheat the wood panels and cause a fire. I had a spray water bottle that I used to control the heat.

I also included info on what I did to abandon the dometic thermostat in place and add a simple 2-wire mercury style thermostat strictly for the furnace. So when the dometic unit is removed, leave the wiring plug for it in place until you verify the 2 wires going from that plug to the furnace. In my van they were 2 green wires if I remember right. My post has the info on tying into those 2 wires for the new/relocated thermostat. That setup has also worked without any problems at all.

What multifunction tool did you use?

The Rovsun AC I got is 11.5” high x 23” wide. Also it stands 1” high so looks like the pan has to be cut low
 
Nothing special, I think its from Harbor Freight, works fine for my purposes.

There will be differences in your install than from mine. In my case I trimmed the metal standoffs on the bottom of the new unit and I also trimmed the fiberglass pan lower lip, but still left a bit of it as a dam to stop condensate/rainwater ingress into the van. The new unit sits right up to the ceiling.
 
Is it a sawsall type tool?

I’m going to have a gap at top that I will have to figure how to fill and have it still look good. I like the aluminum edging you did
 
It's a tool like this. With oscillating blade. But as I mentioned the blade friction can overheat the wood, just need to go slow and have spray water bottle handy.
 

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UPDATE

I installed a Rovsun 12000 BTU unit in my 15C210P. A couple of notes:

Used a Makita multi tool as I already have several Makita LXT tools so have batteries for that. A definite needed tool for this modification

I found a material lift at a local tool rental place. It was a monster as could handle 1250 lbs. used it to remove CoolCat

For hoisting new unit up, used extension ladder half with pulley and slid it up with a helper on rope

Took the entire black plastic box out. It is riveted in so on backside, used a Dremel to cut off rivets. This made it easy to do the cutting from the backside

Made a cardboard template of the opening. Made sure to leave about an inch on lower lip to keep water out

Used 4” corner braces to secure back of unit as two holes lined up so able to use Rovsun installed screws. The bottom of bracket sat high so cut pieces off black plastic box and secured with self tapping screws and silicone sealer

Used a perforated flat stock to secure front from up down movement. Placed flat stock on edge in channel for window and secured on sides with self tapping screws

Reused metal exhaust shield and added extensions using the black corrugated material

Overall very pleased with results. Much quieter and cools very well
 

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That looks great!

Question for you on intake/exhaust separation. I assume intake is top and sides, exhaust out the back. That separation gets critical in that enclosed area.
If I got it right, you reinstalled the top horizontal metal shield and installed side extensions - all of which extend from the unit right up to and against the rear louvers in the fiberglass cover?
 
UPDATE

I installed a Rovsun 12000 BTU unit in my 15C210P. A couple of notes:

Used a Makita multi tool as I already have several Makita LXT tools so have batteries for that. A definite needed tool for this modification

I found a material lift at a local tool rental place. It was a monster as could handle 1250 lbs. used it to remove CoolCat

For hoisting new unit up, used extension ladder half with pulley and slid it up with a helper on rope

Took the entire black plastic box out. It is riveted in so on backside, used a Dremel to cut off rivets. This made it easy to do the cutting from the backside

Made a cardboard template of the opening. Made sure to leave about an inch on lower lip to keep water out

Used 4” corner braces to secure back of unit as two holes lined up so able to use Rovsun installed screws. The bottom of bracket sat high so cut pieces off black plastic box and secured with self tapping screws and silicone sealer

Used a perforated flat stock to secure front from up down movement. Placed flat stock on edge in channel for window and secured on sides with self tapping screws

Reused metal exhaust shield and added extensions using the black corrugated material

Overall very pleased with results. Much quieter and cools very well
A 1250# lift if a big and heavy thing for sure. We had one that side that could go to 18' to lift a quad window unit up to the scaffolding. Window was only about 300# but we needed height. The lift we had could not be picked up and put in a trailer as it took two bit guys to lift just one end a foot to get it started on a tilted trailer.

What issue kept you from using the lift to put the new AC in place?
 
UPDATE

I installed a Rovsun 12000 BTU unit in my 15C210P. A couple of notes:

Used a Makita multi tool as I already have several Makita LXT tools so have batteries for that. A definite needed tool for this modification

I found a material lift at a local tool rental place. It was a monster as could handle 1250 lbs. used it to remove CoolCat

For hoisting new unit up, used extension ladder half with pulley and slid it up with a helper on rope

Took the entire black plastic box out. It is riveted in so on backside, used a Dremel to cut off rivets. This made it easy to do the cutting from the backside

Made a cardboard template of the opening. Made sure to leave about an inch on lower lip to keep water out

Used 4” corner braces to secure back of unit as two holes lined up so able to use Rovsun installed screws. The bottom of bracket sat high so cut pieces off black plastic box and secured with self tapping screws and silicone sealer

Used a perforated flat stock to secure front from up down movement. Placed flat stock on edge in channel for window and secured on sides with self tapping screws

Reused metal exhaust shield and added extensions using the black corrugated material

Overall very pleased with results. Much quieter and cools very well
What material did you make your intake/exhaust wings with? Could you post a pic of them? BTW, I used the same AC unit.
 
That looks great!

Question for you on intake/exhaust separation. I assume intake is top and sides, exhaust out the back. That separation gets critical in that enclosed area.
If I got it right, you reinstalled the top horizontal metal shield and installed side extensions - all of which extend from the unit right up to and against the rear louvers in the fiberglass cover?
Yes made a complete enclosure for exhaust. Not a 100% tight but seems good enough. Reused round gaskets that seem to fit into fiberglass rear cover
Reused corrugated material for top of exhaust box leaving top intake vents open
 
Instead of angle iron and plumbers tape I used aluminum angle to mechanically secure the unit in place and then sealed the gap with Eternabond tape. Sorry no pictures.
 
JJ, that is basically what I did. I used aluminum duct tape to seal everything. More than one layer though.
 

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