Dodge 3500 cruise control

[GallenH]

Just back from 4 day trip from Minnesota to Arizona. This question is about cruise control on a 1996 Dodge 3500 based Pleasureway.

Control works fine.......when it works. I'd be driving with cruise on and if I had to disconnect via tapping brake, it would go off. Tried hitting "resume" and tried resetting speed engagement. No dice. Turning control on and off didn't help at all. After this happened a few times I noticed that the green LED indicating that the cruise was on wouldn't come back on.

Until

I shut off the van completely and restarted. Then the LED would light and the control would work. Until...repeat 1st paragraph above.

Any suggestions?

thx.glenn

 

[GallenH]

Sorry

"green LED indicating that the cruise was on wouldn't come back'

SHOULD HAVE READ

"green LED indicating that the cruise was OFF wouldn't come back

 

[55 Nomad]

I had the same problem with my cruise control on a 2006 chevy roadtrek. I replaced the cruise control module under the hood and that fixed it. I used a salvage yard module from Pull a part on the west side of phoenix.

 

[mkguitar]

I'd prowl some Dodge 3500 forums

 

[billn]

On my 2004 Xplorer on the Dodge 3500 chassis. The steering wheel buttons get a bit stubborn if the van sits for a while. Repeated button pushes brings them back to life until the van sits for a while. Hope you find a solution to your issue. Post the remedy here if you get it fixed.

 

[98LeisureTravelDodge]

I've had similar problems with the Cruise Cont in my '97 Dodge based Leisure Travel. My problem was/is with the "C" (computer) connectors(s), C1, C2, C3 on the firewall. I've also had a problem with my AC clutch circuit which I traced to a bad connection at one of these connectors (I used the Service Man diagnostic steps and made a definitive determination). My latest problem is with the Overdrive on/off light in the push button switch. I suspect a bad connection in the ground circuit as it passes through the C-connector. OD switch works, just no light (bulb's good w/ continuity and second switch tried w/ no joy).

For the AC clutch problem I sprayed DeOxit on the terminals and re-seated. For the cruise cont problem I just re-seated. I found the issue occurs more often during high ambient temps. It gets real hot under the hood & dog house.

I think I remember reading in my manual that the C-connectors aren't made to be frequently re-seated?? What are you gonna do otherwise? I do notice that an eBay seller sells used Dodge C-connectors so maybe he knows something about this problem.

In the Navy, our standard in-flight trouble shooting was 1) cycle the switch, 2) cycle the CB, & 3) re-seat the box. We had a lot of equipment that got hot when down low over the water in hot climes. Once I had to put our only VHF transceiver in the refrigerator to cool it off so we could make a timely position report over a less than friendly nation with VHF only in a no radar environment.

I imagine some (many?) unfortunate people have changed out their ECM/PCM due to this problem only to have it return at a later date.

***WARNING: read the warnings in your Serv Man. Basically be sure to disconnect the battery, key off and discharge the any residual e- in the system?? (my memory is weak on this one). You can easily brick your PCM if your key is on, battery connected.

 

[booster]

Most connectors and switches are self wiping to try to remove oxidation, but they are imperfect, especially as they age. If you use contact cleaner on them you can often get them working but unless you can prevent them from oxidizing again the problem returns, usually faster ever time for some reason.


Once I get a problem connection clean with an appropriate cleaner or mechanical way like sanding with fine paper, I usually will coat/seal them with silicone grease to prevent the moisture and oxygen from getting to the contacts. Always also check the seals on the connectors to make sure they are there, not torn, and lubricated so they seat properly without twisting or rolling.


When I had the engine and transmission out of my 96 Buick to build a new engine and rebuild the transmission, I cleaned and greased every connector and seal then assembled them twice so they would wipe on last time. I probably had 15+ connectors to deal with that had been in an engine compartment for 25 years so they were in not the best shape but cleaned up well. No bad connections or problems at first start or since, which is pretty good for that age as there is usually something that doesn't work right.