dodge rt shocks

[RT-NY]

I'm planning on putting new shocks on my 1999 Dodge RT 170, front and rear. I am guessing the current shocks are the original ones. There are youtube videos on the job, and it looks pretty straightforward. So I'm just looking for any advice, either about the job itself or about which shocks to use for the replacement or about other things I might also do on the suspension while I'm at it.

 

[GallenH]

Had my 97 PW done at a truck/RV suspension shop. Put 4 Bilsteins on. Also had airbags replaced and rear leaf springs rearched. Done about 5 years ago. Huge difference. Always had a slight lean when turning. Now turns "flat" like a car. Not sure which made the most difference.

 

[The Eyesore]

The rear are very straight forward.
For the front, you will need this tool:

Lisle 20400 Universal Shock Absorber Tool
​

 

[TomF-ClassB]

I've replaced the shocks on my 1997 Dodge RT twice in the last 20 years, both times with Bilsteins. They are excellent shocks. The first time, I replaced them myself, and I had an issue with the rear shocks because the clearance of the bottom bolts to the floor pan was too tight. The fronts were no problem.
Two years ago, I had all the bushings replaced on the front end, but the mechanic overlooked the bushings for the long rods that run from the lower control arms back to the frame behind the engine. I replaced those myself and finally had a nice, steerable van.

 

[nicaland]

I'm planning on putting new shocks on my 1999 Dodge RT 170, front and rear. I am guessing the current shocks are the original ones. There are youtube videos on the job, and it looks pretty straightforward. So I'm just looking for any advice, either about the job itself or about which shocks to use for the replacement or about other things I might also do on the suspension while I'm at it.

Bilsteins for sure. I used to be a Monroe gas believer, but there really is no comparison. It's been a while and I can't remember their item number, but at the time that I bought them there were two options; if there still are, get the heaviest duty option. I found them relatively easy to install on both ends. I also have airbags and an onboard compressor which is a godsend if you travel with different loads from time to time, and can also be a timesaver if you need to level due to having an absorbtion fridge.

 

[RT-NY]

Two years ago, I had all the bushings replaced on the front end, but the mechanic overlooked the bushings for the long rods that run from the lower control arms back to the frame behind the engine. I replaced those myself and finally had a nice, steerable van.

Thanks everyone for your recommendations! I would also like to replace all the bushings on the front end -- all the rubber is original (25+ years old) and is degraded. Also, the rubber boots on the tie rod ends and ball joints. That all seems like it would be a bit of work, though.

 

[booster]

Thanks everyone for your recommendations! I would also like to replace all the bushings on the front end -- all the rubber is original (25+ years old) and is degraded. Also, the rubber boots on the tie rod ends and ball joints. That all seems like it would be a bit of work, though.

Yep, that is a lot of work and special tools needed for some of it.

Basically, you removing all the parts in the front suspension and steering linkage and replacing them or rebuilding them with new parts.

It is highly unlikely that you will find boots only for the steering parts like ball joints and tie rod end so new would be required. An alignment will be needed when done.

If you hire it done be sure to get a solid quote first as this will not be inexpensive.

 

[The Eyesore]

Here's my parts list for my 99 Dodge with 4000# front axle.
Personally, I went on Amazon and purchased each suspension piece separately. All Moog parts (I wasn't willing to roll the dice on one of those cheap kits from Detroit Axle).
I don't think Moog has an actual "kit" for my specific Van, but even if they did, I'm certain that buying the parts separately on Amazon was the cheaper/better option.

My list:
MOOG ES2147RL Steering Tie Rod End
2@ $41.34 = $82.68
MOOG DS1011 Tie Rod End
1@ $61.29 = $61.29
MOOG DS1010 Tie Rod End
1@ $76.03 = $76.03
MOOG ES362S Steering Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve
2@ $12.04 = $24.08
MOOG DS1414 Steering Drag Link
1@ $69.56 = $69.56
Moog K7090 Strut Rod Bushing Kit
1@ $23.29 = $23.29
MOOG K7096 Suspension Stabilizer Bar Bushing Kit
1@ $8.64 = $8.64
Moog K700531 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit
2@ $7.29 = $14.58
MOOG K7106 Steering Idler Arm
1@ $62.43 = $62.43
MOOG K160037 Coil Spring Insulator
2@ $15.13 = $30.26
MOOG RK620369 Suspension Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly front left upper
1@ $91.51 = $91.51
MOOG RK620370 Suspension Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly front right upper
1@ $94.77 = $94.77
MOOG K7082 Suspension Ball Joint Front Upper
2@ $31.66 = $63.32
MOOG K7053T Ball Joint Front Lower
2@ $24.87 = $49.74
Total $752.18

I paid a local craigslist mechanic $1400 to install everything.
I paid $150 to have the lower control arm bushings and ball joint pressed in.
I paid $230 for an alignment.

I bought a brand new steering box. Forgot the price, maybe $500ish? I think I paid $100 or so to have that installed.


I bought extra upper ball joints and discarded the ones that came installed into the UCA's (There was a night and day difference in quality).

 

[RT-NY]

Thanks so much for all this info! So, it looks like all told it cost a few thousand dollars for you to get it all done -- what is your impression of the performance improvement afterwards?

 

[The Eyesore]

Thanks so much for all this info! So, it looks like all told it cost a few thousand dollars for you to get it all done -- what is your impression of the performance improvement afterwards?

TBH, My front end wasn't in too bad of shape anyways. I just figured that, at 100k miles on the odometer, these parts would probably last the life of the van, and currently, they're not too expensive.
The biggest improvement was the new steering gear.

However, it now drives very acceptably and I can relax when driving with just two fingers on the wheel and very little play in the steering. It tracks straight and does well over dips and such. I'm very pleased and feel that it was money well spent.

I also installed these shocks, by the way...
FRONT:
Bilstein B6 Shocks 24-184632 $128/each

REAR:
Bilstein 24-184670 B6 4600 Series $211/pair

 

[booster]

If Eyesore got crappy upper joints in the arms, he probably got the "new" version of the old arms that they now sell under the same old numbers except that the problem solver line has gone away. They are now appear to be generic Chinese arms like many people sell for less money. On lower arms for the Chevies the new arms come with balljoints that are not even the same bore size as the stock or problem solver joints so can't even put in a good joint. The joints that come in them are the plastic bearing style so don't last. Pitiful sell out on Moog's part.

 

[The Eyesore]

If Eyesore got crappy upper joints in the arms, he probably got the "new" version of the old arms that they now sell under the same old numbers except that the problem solver line has gone away. They are now appear to be generic Chinese arms like many people sell for less money. On lower arms for the Chevies the new arms come with balljoints that are not even the same bore size as the stock or problem solver joints so can't even put in a good joint. The joints that come in them are the plastic bearing style so don't last. Pitiful sell out on Moog's part.

This is accurate. However, the new arms themselves, appear to be of OEM quality, but the balljoints were generic AF. The only thing that scared me was the problem solver balljoints that I purchased separately, were able to be threaded into the UCA bores BY HAND all the way until seated. Blew my mind. However, I torqued them to spec and so far, 8k miles later, they're doing fine.

Having said that... I kept the original arms and installed problem solvers into them, just in case these fail.

 

[booster]

Control arms are difficult to assess for quality as most look fine. The problems that do sometimes show up are mostly in poor quality rubber in the bushings that fail quickly. You can often tell where they came from as the Chinese Asian versions can smell very bad. Other areas would be the mentioned ball joint quality and possibly the material used in the arms themselves. The arms on this thread are likely stamped steel and there are lots of contaminates or use of recycled steel that can mess up strength. The later Chevy arms are cast or forged depending on who you believe so even more dependent on correct metals used and process followed.