Dometic air conditioner...

phantomjock

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2022
Messages
292
Location
Red-Neck Riveria - (Fort Walton Beach, FL)
Testing Phase

I was suspicious that the survey could not test the unit, as it was; “…too cold in Mass to run it.” Accepting that, knowing it was 14 years old it might need some work. I tried to test the unit in situ. All I got was a “Relay” like click. Study of the inter-web yielded a number of approaches; SoftStart, replace capacitor, replace the unit, etc.

Those that replaced their units all raved about the new technology, improved efficiency, lower noise, and other favorable characteristics.

I removed the unit, took part of the day, using a scaffold, and a helping neighbor got it down. Before it goes to the scrap heap, I want to give it a go. The wiring diagram is for an earlier unit, and I’m trying to figure out which wires (on the thermostat lead) I need to connect to effect a turn on.

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Looks like the suspicious ones I’ve identified. Any thoughts, before I head off shopping for a replacement?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers - Jim
 

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  • testing dometic wiring.jpg
    testing dometic wiring.jpg
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Well, I'll try a new PATH...

I (obviously) have the unit out of the van. And, I put power on the Dometic and did a check of the various pins and capacitor, and couldn't reach any meaningful conclusion. {I'm an Aero not an EE, but I know a bit about "sparky-stuff." }

After a few moments of head scratching, I went and measured the available space, the existing, and possibilities for opening expansion, did a bit of CAD, and built a spreadsheet of over 50 candidate units to replace the Dometic CoolCat.

These units ranged from quite small (not included on the sheet) to 10000 - 12000 BTU units. As I was building the list I also checked the other work folks had done here and on the FB pages, and concluded I was most interested in a Dual Inverter technology unit (low noise, easy start up, etc).

I settled on an 8000 BTU, Inverter Technology, WiFi ENABLED, etc, Hisense. It will fit with a minimum of interior modification, and I believe - no requirement to shave the upper cabinet doors. It also will run on 115/15amp power so mooch-docking is a plan. Perhaps even some AC on House Bank with engine supplement if needed.

I will need to do some work in the overhead space, but, all in a days work.
Pictures will follow as the work progresses.

Cheers - Jim
 

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  • RV AIRCON OPTIONS SIZES.pdf
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  • RV AIRCON OPTIONS SIZES1 .pdf
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Just to share a quick pic

This is a paste-up of the rear bulkhead I'll modify for the aircon unit. I have the existing measures in RED, and the cut-lines in YELLOW.
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This is a side view of the unit I'll be installing:
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The less than 1 inch (0.9") is important, as that is the maximum the unit can "extend" into the cabin and not require any upper/overhead cabinet door modifications. The access to the filter should be easy, as in this unit, it is retrieved from the top of the front-face door - not sideways as in some other units. WHEW! Glad to be lucky. Well see soon.

NOTE: This is applicable to my 2008 Chevy 170P Roadtrek. Your mileage may vary.

Cheers - Jim
 

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  • RT Front face - MEASURED 2008c170P FO HISENSE 8KBTU.jpg
    RT Front face - MEASURED 2008c170P FO HISENSE 8KBTU.jpg
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  • HISENSE 8000 SIDE VU.jpg
    HISENSE 8000 SIDE VU.jpg
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