Engine, Transmission, Maintenance, Break-downs and more . . .

Winston-ClassB

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2017
Posts
280
Location
Michigan
For most of our existence we’ve taken a rather laissez-faire approach to vehicle maintenance - - if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. But our thinking began to mature when we built our DIY Promaster - - not because this vehicle is a piece-of-junk and breaks all the time; rather, because of the distant, remote, and obscure places we now target - - e.g. back gravel roads in Labrador; the Dempster Highway (600 miles of gravel) enroute to the Arctic Ocean in the Yukon and Northwest Territories. Our Promaster is a magnet drawing us to some of the most obscure, rustic places on the Continent. A vehicle breakdown can be more than massively inconvenient, it can be life threatening.

Todate, our 8 years of travel have netted 210,000 miles of exploration and fun. And, as reported in the Threads of this and the Promaster Forums, we have been confronted with the inconveniences of catastrophic failure (including the difficulty of locating local repair facilities willing to “fit” a traveling motorist into their already over-booked schedule):

Transmission failure, 11/19, Indianapolis, Indiana;
Engine “falling off”, 3/23, Jackson, Mississippi;
Radiator Cooling Fan, 9/22, Yukon Territory.

These were not “happy” experiences, but they could have been far worse. Indianapolis and Jackson are both good sized cities with mostly competent and “willing” repair facilities within just a few miles. The radiator fan in the Yukon, well, we learned to drive without these fans for several thousand miles until repair could be arranged.

But the specter of a total breakdown of the campervan - - which is our home while on the road, the location of all food and clothes, housing, everything - - in one of those obscure Canadian reaches, or Alaska or even in a lesser populated Mississippi village - - only increases in direct measure to our van’s increasing mileage.

So, last year, we started a discussion with our mechanic - - the feasibility of replacing the “drive train” including all components having anything to do with its ability to move forward in a controlled manner.

We had hoped to find a low mileage ‘used’ drive train - - maybe a vehicle that had been rear-ended or one of those high-tops where the driver failed to heed the sign: Clearance 7' 6". Well, if such bargains exist, we have yet to find one.

Then, two weeks ago, after our van had sat for several weeks, its transmission started to slip. Our mechanic ran some tests, did some research and concluded that, for now, letting the van idle in neutral for a period would allow the transmission fluids to ‘relocate’ and the transmission to operate - - but he sternly warned: “I wouldn’t drive too far until you replace the transmission.”

The need to replace the transmission re-enforced our desire to replace the “drive train”. And this is what we’ve decided to do. We’ll report more, later, including the ultimate expense involved. But we’re learning things that, we suspect, many of us lay public don’t know . . . for example, when you replace an engine, you’re really not getting a whole engine. You’ve got to reuse the oil pan and, by the way, there’s also a rather significant “upper oil pan” casting that must be recovered/reused. And, at one end of the engine, there’s another huge “timing chain cover” casting. And don’t forget the top, two plastic, lower and upper, intake manifolds. Do we reuse or replace these plastic components? We’ve replaced the upper manifold before, but what the heck, the lower one is just $500. And did we consider the two alternators, the water and other pumps? And this lay person had no idea of the literally dozens of pipes, hoses, cables, clamps and other attachments that must be removed before the engine/transmission yields to removal. Would love to see how the factory assembles these things - - although we’re more interested in how our mechanic is going to reassemble - - even our mechanic admits that available manuals tell one what has to be removed, but do not elaborate on the exact order of assembly to obtain proper positioning of all that was removed.

In any event, the process has started and hopefully we’ll not learn of too many other surprises.
 
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Sounds somewhat similar to my thought process for my daily driver.

1996 Buick Roadmaster wagon that I got in 2013. Drove and did suspension mods to make drive more modern.

In 2019 decided it was a Keeper and to make it as reliable as possible.

Bodywork and paint one winter, in the garage. No rust but had been bumped and had poor repair.

Built a custom engine of my own design and properties, high end transmission rebuild, modified and improved rear axle I built. Every sensor replaced, new water pump, power steering pump, alternator, starter, injectors, fuel pump and any other wear items I could get. Fixed up interior the next year.

It has been flawless so far but not doing your kind of stuff. Is it more likely to brek down thna a new car, yep, but not a huge amount.

It is too bad you couldn't find a suitable donor van, as IMO that is by far the best and easiest. It would have also allowed you to go up year as most parts are interchangeable if you have whole donor. Big benefit in pulling a complete drivetrain an all the harnesses, electronics etc as they all match.

I know too many folks that were not careful and bought "factory" long or short blocks and trans from dealer thinking they were new. Most are mass rebuilder units of mid grade quality and expected life. You can often get new ones but have to watch. If know good motor heads that have access to high end performance machining they would be able to build a better than new engine for half the cost. I am lucky that the race engine shop I have dealt with for years still does over the counter machining for me. I chose the parts and assemble. Same is true with trans, but my contacts have all died or retired so hard to pick the right shop.

I hope it all goes well for you with it all. Test extensively locally when done. Rough roads, water spray all areas that might get wet, check constantly for leaks or funny smells. Some stuff always seems to show up early, but if well done not serious.

Keep us up on the project, always fun to follow.
 
Hi Winston, did you happen to check with these guys. They are big around here with many auctions.

The vehicle I see being hauled out for rebuilding or parting ou don't look like the the typical ratty stuff you usually see at auctions. They must be getting lots of insurance total loss vehicles.

Capart Promasters
 
At 268,000 miles, many of them in the middle of nowhere, we share Winston's angst, but we choose to just keep on keeping on.

I think this thread needs the response that Winston received on the PM forum from Kip. Kip is that forum’s resident mechanic guru, owner of Promasters Only repair shop and expediter with a fleet of them. MrNomer and I respect him so much that we drove more than a thousand miles to have him repair our tick at 190,000 miles.

“Happened to stumble on this. I can clear up some misconceptions in no particular order of importance.

“First up is to kind of reorient your thinking about miles or mileage. In 1980, a car with 100k on it was just totally "done". Not so anymore. If you avoid and overheat, address the pentastar tick and the oil cooler leak (both one time fixes), and fix whatever breaks when it breaks (alternator, cooling fans, suspension, whatever) then the basic engine will go to between 500-600k no sweat. Sounds crazy, but it's true. In your use case, time is probably a more important factor than mileage. But the fact remains that there is nothing to be gained by replacing a working engine. I have personally run things like a serpentine belt out to 400k+ miles - will yours last 15 more years? Probably not. But it's an example of where time and mileage are interdependant.

“If you were to replace an engine, in your case yes - you would be replacing it with a fully remanufactured engine. That means they take a used engine, regardless of mileage, tear it down, hot tank it, reassemble it with some new parts but many old parts, and then your installer bolts lots of your old stuff to it and stabs it in. You see where I'm going with this. The exact version of a Pentastar engine your van has went out of production in 2021 - as such there is no such thing as a truly new engine, not that a reman is a bad thing.

“Philosophically, there are some things you can do as preventative maintenance, but my feeling is that there is no 100% foolproof way to stave off disaster. Machines are machines - they ALL break eventually, and there are no crystal balls. There is but ONE TOOL that you can carry that will stave off what I know you want to avoid - being dead in the water on the side of the road and at risk of being eaten by bears. That tool is MONEY. Money is the ONLY thing that's 100%. It fixes all problems, though it doesn't fix them all instantly. Armed with money, there is nothing you can't survive.

I suffer from this too, of course - worrying about catastrophy before it actually comes. But the best advice I can give you is do the rockers if it starts ticking, replace the oil cooler when it's convenient, and sacrafic a goat to the transmission gods in the hopes of currying favor. It's all you realistically can do. After that, keep a wad of money on hand and traipse off into the wild blue yonder without a care in the world! It's the best approach because you wasted no time worrying!”
 
Hi Winston, did you happen to check with these guys. They are big around here with many auctions.

The vehicle I see being hauled out for rebuilding or parting ou don't look like the the typical ratty stuff you usually see at auctions. They must be getting lots of insurance total loss vehicles.

Capart Promasters
Thanks for the heads-up. Not sure where my mechanic was looking. At this point we're committed to (and have received) replacement engine/transmission. But we'll keep your lead for future use which we hopefully won't require . . . for a long time.
 
I don't know about Dodge but GM used to sell a crate engine totally factory rebuilt or new in some cases with a Warranty. It was not cheap but they sold a lot of them.
 
We're on our "test flight" now, but not without a few hiccups. "New" transmission installed on "new" engine. Last thing to do before hoisting the buddle back in position => reinstall the driver's side engine mounting bracket using three of those infamous one-use bolts (infamous as we lost our engine a couple of years ago when these three bolts broke). The first two of the bolts stripped the transmission housing when torqued. Not really sure where this "new" transmission came from, but we discovered helicoils in these holes clearly indicating that this housing was not, itself, new and had had difficulty in this area before. The "new" transmission was trash . . . so we waited two days for a replacement which, incidentally, had no helicoils and 'accepted' the spec'd torque.

The second hiccup occurred yesterday when we tried to start the engine. Click, click . . . the engine would not turn-over. Fortunately, Fluke in hand, we determined the problem was likely the battery, managed to get a restart, and drove directly to the local Dodge/RAM dealer in Muskegon (MI) where we were politely informed that this dealership did not sell Promasters and was specifically prohibited from working on them. But they agreed to check the battery with their tester and when the tester confirmed a bad cell, they forthwith replaced the battery without further discussion of "the prohibition". Of course, we had to telephone our mechanic to complain: "You said you replaced the drive-train . . . . what do you mean the battery isn't part of the drive-train? Don't we need the battery to make the drive train operate???" Our call was in jest - - we knew our 8 year old original equipment battery hadn't been replaced.

So now, hopefully, all is normal and well, and we can close this thread and begin our next 210,000 miles of wandering.
 
Thanks for the update.

Unfortunately, I am not surprised about the transmission not actually be new in totality. The unknown is how much of the internals were actually replaced with new and if they were OEM or aftermarket. As I mentioned early on I have heard of this a lot of times.

Does the engine look like it is all new parts? Most of the time there are signs you can see.

Good luck as you go forward.
 
I never expect more than 5 years out of a battery, some cases your lucky to get 3!!
My 2015 Toyota Tacoma pickup OEM lasted 7 years!!
We have a local machine shop that can rebuilt engines, not cheap but they are very good. No excuse for that transmission you got as Rebuild.
 
For most of our existence we’ve taken a rather laissez-faire approach to vehicle maintenance - - if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. But our thinking began to mature when we built our DIY Promaster - - not because this vehicle is a piece-of-junk and breaks all the time; rather, because of the distant, remote, and obscure places we now target - - e.g. back gravel roads in Labrador; the Dempster Highway (600 miles of gravel) enroute to the Arctic Ocean in the Yukon and Northwest Territories. Our Promaster is a magnet drawing us to some of the most obscure, rustic places on the Continent. A vehicle breakdown can be more than massively inconvenient, it can be life threatening.

Todate, our 8 years of travel have netted 210,000 miles of exploration and fun. And, as reported in the Threads of this and the Promaster Forums, we have been confronted with the inconveniences of catastrophic failure (including the difficulty of locating local repair facilities willing to “fit” a traveling motorist into their already over-booked schedule):

Transmission failure, 11/19, Indianapolis, Indiana;
Engine “falling off”, 3/23, Jackson, Mississippi;
Radiator Cooling Fan, 9/22, Yukon Territory.

These were not “happy” experiences, but they could have been far worse. Indianapolis and Jackson are both good sized cities with mostly competent and “willing” repair facilities within just a few miles. The radiator fan in the Yukon, well, we learned to drive without these fans for several thousand miles until repair could be arranged.

But the specter of a total breakdown of the campervan - - which is our home while on the road, the location of all food and clothes, housing, everything - - in one of those obscure Canadian reaches, or Alaska or even in a lesser populated Mississippi village - - only increases in direct measure to our van’s increasing mileage.

So, last year, we started a discussion with our mechanic - - the feasibility of replacing the “drive train” including all components having anything to do with its ability to move forward in a controlled manner.

We had hoped to find a low mileage ‘used’ drive train - - maybe a vehicle that had been rear-ended or one of those high-tops where the driver failed to heed the sign: Clearance 7' 6". Well, if such bargains exist, we have yet to find one.

Then, two weeks ago, after our van had sat for several weeks, its transmission started to slip. Our mechanic ran some tests, did some research and concluded that, for now, letting the van idle in neutral for a period would allow the transmission fluids to ‘relocate’ and the transmission to operate - - but he sternly warned: “I wouldn’t drive too far until you replace the transmission.”

The need to replace the transmission re-enforced our desire to replace the “drive train”. And this is what we’ve decided to do. We’ll report more, later, including the ultimate expense involved. But we’re learning things that, we suspect, many of us lay public don’t know . . . for example, when you replace an engine, you’re really not getting a whole engine. You’ve got to reuse the oil pan and, by the way, there’s also a rather significant “upper oil pan” casting that must be recovered/reused. And, at one end of the engine, there’s another huge “timing chain cover” casting. And don’t forget the top, two plastic, lower and upper, intake manifolds. Do we reuse or replace these plastic components? We’ve replaced the upper manifold before, but what the heck, the lower one is just $500. And did we consider the two alternators, the water and other pumps? And this lay person had no idea of the literally dozens of pipes, hoses, cables, clamps and other attachments that must be removed before the engine/transmission yields to removal. Would love to see how the factory assembles these things - - although we’re more interested in how our mechanic is going to reassemble - - even our mechanic admits that available manuals tell one what has to be removed, but do not elaborate on the exact order of assembly to obtain proper positioning of all that was removed.

In any event, the process has started and hopefully we’ll not learn of too many other surprises.
do you own a Haynes or Chilton manual for your van year and manufacturer ? 19.95$ at big auto parts stores, well worth having.
 
do you own a Haynes or Chilton manual for your van year and manufacturer ? 19.95$ at big auto parts stores, well worth having.
Our mechanic has good documentation and allows us access as required. We're familiar with these manuals and, you're right, at that price, worth having a 'local' copy. Thanks for your input.
 

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