need advise on installing a transmission cooler

[youngnretired]

I also dealt with this. Instead of me guessing wrong, I called the chevy dealer and gave them the vin for them to tell me what trans is in ours. Even the trans option codes for the chassis didn't give a definite answer.

 

[THEBRAIN]

If you hit any tough pulling or hills you will overheat just like the rest of us have.

doesn't the tow button keep the trans in 3rd an the converter locked?
even going up a hill towing or not she'll drop down a gear w/ or w./out tow button.

planning to insert the temp sending unit in the trans diagnoistic port to monitor temps.

 

[THEBRAIN]

I also dealt with this. Instead of me guessing wrong, I called the chevy dealer and gave them the vin for them to tell me what trans is in ours. Even the trans option codes for the chassis didn't give a definite answer.

excellent advice I tryed to give wix the vin# but there not equipped to provide to correct PN I want to do this all at once. thanks

 

[THEBRAIN]

doesn't the tow button keep the trans in 3rd an the converter locked?
even going up a hill towing or not she'll drop down a gear w/ or w./out tow button.

planning to insert the temp sending unit in the trans diagnoistic port to monitor temps.

think I'll leave the towing to the 1500 express even w/ it's 5.3 it pulls much stronger only being 5500LBs
or start using the 07Hummer H2 that is the Saabs replacement the H2 needs a brake light switch replacement so I haven't driven her yet. that switch appears imposiable to replace.

I told myself only keep one van I can't bare to get rid of the pleasureway it way to cool for a overnight trip.

 

[booster]

If you have a generator in the Pleasure-way you might not have been able to use it for the boat anyway depending on the ramp and depth you need to launch the boat. Water and generators don't get along well, especially salt water.

 

[THEBRAIN]

yes you absolutely correct on preserving the generator, on a over nighter it isn't used bc it's way to loud.


the 1500 isn't insured or even used its reugrated to a spare TV. I had it for sale for a while
got sick of assholes asking for lowest price so it just sits. H2 needs tail lights switch I've just ordered the switch.

heres the tows I've done so far. out of necessity.
16 months ago 200 mile one way starting at 260' above sea level elevation to 950' not hilly but a constant incline few few hills.
the incline was noticed a bit compared to the return trip but she towed fine.
this trip was from centrel Alabama to above Atlanta,GA to obtain a newish fresh water 2 stroke outboard (there getting harder to find).
then just recently three trips to the local lake 30 miles each way same elevation for shakedown runs.

during upsidedown world the transom was eaten bye wood eating insects, ontop of that the outboard engine had a no spark issue, which I couldn't revive so I opted for a repower.

the 3rd week in Nov is usaley time for winterization for a few months but may go to lake for one more shakedown run.

if I do tow again it will be less than 5 miles on flat land w/ a deep water ramp where the rear tires get no more than 5" from there either fresh or salt water.

I can relate to what you say about over heating the trans. I've cruised down to the Gulf of America over a dozon times (just van not towing). my route though the panhandle is a hillie area actuely the highest elevation area of Florida. again starting elevation of 260' down to eventual seal level but the hills go higher than 300'plus.

while in cruise control to prevent the constant down shift to 3rd while approaching the hill I speed up like to 80 on county rd highway. all these hills an all those downshifts proballey take there toll on the trans.

even in tow mode which I think keeps the trans in 3rd she still downshifts but definity not to 2nd going over 60mph?
previous tow vehicals while towing only did the down shift while towing at the steep hills where the pleasureway doe's it on all the hills w/ out towing.

 

[THEBRAIN]

Installed the 26K auxillary cooler.Out rad. Sliced into the tube entering the lower rad.port To in coolers lower port. Out coolers top port Back to trans return. I may have these in/outs at cooler backwards?image

Ordered AC delco filter an gasket hope it’s the correct filter for my pan.amazon says a seal is included. my luck the seal is probaley the ring at top of filter) I choose the AC delco bc Wix doesn’t include a gasket.I’m hoping there’s a reusable GM gasket. image.

The dripped out fuild wasn’t totally burnt had a bit of redness but dark red.image

I believe but haven’t confirmed his 4L80 pan indeed has a drain plug notice the indentation in middle of pan, I’ve read the nut is very short so it’s hard to grip. A drain would lessen the mess.

w/ front of van on ramps plan B remove all but one rear corner an one rear side corner of front of pan then slowely lower rear of pan.



Snatch out the old filter, if the peskie ring is jammed up inside case just reuse it, press in new filter. Line up gasket w/ a couple bolts reinstall pan tightening in 2 pass’s from inside outward snugging. I do have a inch type torquore wrench not sure how to use it on LBs will snug like a spark plug.



Will I be able to tell if this pan has ever been dropped?

Here’s my plan:

1.drop pan replenish what was drained I believe whats in the bottom of pan is unfiltered BC the filters pickup is on the bottom?

2. remove trans tube at top of rad. Extend it w/ additional tubing.

3.run engine an pump out 2 quarts,turn off engine then replenish the 2 quarts.

4.continue to pump another 2 quarts replenish.

I will pump out total of 3 gallons an replenish w/ Castrol dexron4 image.

thanks for any tips

 

[youngnretired]

The pan on our 4L80E in our 2007 chassis was steel without a drain plug. I'll likely address that issue down the road.

I've changed trans fluid similar to how you plan to. Only I dumped fresh as the car was running. Uses more fresh fluid, but also doesn't let the pump run dry. I'm not sure how long they can run dry without damage. You also can't get fluid to gravity fill in the trans tube fast enough in the van like I could with a car.

I would pull the pan completely to investigate what solids and debris may be present in the pan. This may also give you an idea if the trans is OK or not.

 

[booster]

I would also pull the pan to see what is going on. There should be a magnet in it that could tell you a lot about disc wear if it is full. The fluid looks bad for sure depending on the light in the picture.

You can add a drain to the pan or buy and aftermarket pan with a drain. I have added drains to all the vehicles for years.

The seal that stays in the block can be really hard to get out and most people don't bother, me included, but probably should be done once in a while. You have to be very careful not to damage the block bore for the seal or it will pull air. They make and inexpensive special tool to remove it that has mixed ratings.

I would not use that fluid, especially since you look to possibly have some overheated oil there. The oil in the pic ( I like Castrol products, but not that one) is a one size fits all universal fluid that tries to do all brands "OK" but none of them particularly well. The reason there are different styles of fluid is because the fluid it tailored to match the stick/slip characteristic of each transmission, generally only the same within the same vehicle manufacturer. Stick/slip is very important for shift quality and wear, IMO. Essentially all GM transmissions can use the latest style Dexron VI, which is full synthetic and made to be backward compatible. It can handle much higher temperatures than Dexron IV which ended in the vans in 2007, I think, as our 07 came with it. I use the Valvoline, GM approved, true Dexron VI in out van, not the Valvoline version of one size fits all which will only Dexron VI compatible or usable on the bottle which looks similar to the true Dex VI.

 

[GroupB]

I remove the filter seal with a home made 1/2" pipe Tee handle. I make it long enough to have clearance for a tool to tap down on the handle for removal.

I thread the pipe into the seal - erring on the side of not too tight. If it lets go of the seal, I thread it back in another 1/4 of a turn. the pipe doesn't go past the rubber lip of the seal.

 

[booster]

I remove the filter seal with a home made 1/2" pipe Tee handle. I make it long enough to have clearance for a tool to tap down on the handle for removal.

I thread the pipe into the seal - erring on the side of not too tight. If it lets go of the seal, I thread it back in another 1/4 of a turn. the pipe doesn't go past the rubber lip of the seal.

That is interesting, as I have heard of many that use a 1/2 pipe tap and go all the way through to let the tap push the bushing out. Scary because taps are so sharp they cut through quickly, I think, and several messed up the hole and had to use sealer going back in. Pipe isn't as sharp and you are careful, so much better.

I may try doing very similar, but using a brass nipple at the business end might be ever safer as it probably couldn't damage the hole.

 

[GroupB]

Good idea to use brass.

 

[THEBRAIN]

I would also pull the pan to see what is going on. There should be a magnet in it that could tell you a lot about disc wear if it is full. The fluid looks bad for sure depending on the light in the picture.

You can add a drain to the pan or buy and aftermarket pan with a drain. I have added drains to all the vehicles for years.

The seal that stays in the block can be really hard to get out and most people don't bother, me included, but probably should be done once in a while. You have to be very careful not to damage the block bore for the seal or it will pull air. They make and inexpensive special tool to remove it that has mixed ratings.

I would not use that fluid, especially since you look to possibly have some overheated oil there. The oil in the pic ( I like Castrol products, but not that one) is a one size fits all universal fluid that tries to do all brands "OK" but none of them particularly well. The reason there are different styles of fluid is because the fluid it tailored to match the stick/slip characteristic of each transmission, generally only the same within the same vehicle manufacturer. Stick/slip is very important for shift quality and wear, IMO. Essentially all GM transmissions can use the latest style Dexron VI, which is full synthetic and made to be backward compatible. It can handle much higher temperatures than Dexron IV which ended in the vans in 2007, I think, as our 07 came with it. I use the Valvoline, GM approved, true Dexron VI in out van, not the Valvoline version of one size fits all which will only Dexron VI compatible or usable on the bottle which looks similar to the true Dex VI.

if I don't have a drain plug on the pan I'll pump out no more than 3 1/2 quarts certainly don't want to run pump dry or even close to dry then drop the pan to minimize the mess.
Booster is this the fuild your recommending. image

they have the AC delco cheaper right now.

I purchased 3 gallons of the castrol at walmart. an I don't have the recepit to take bake. trans. fuild is very thin I assume it flows out cold same as warm?thanks again Booster

 

[booster]

Yep that is fluid I use. The ACDelco appears to be official stuff and obviously is OK.

 

[GroupB]

The AC Delco synthetic version of Dexron-VI is 10-9244 in the gallon size.

 

[booster]

The AC Delco synthetic version of Dexron-VI is 10-9244 in the gallon size.

I think both are the same and synthetic with 10-9244 being the dealer version and 10-9395 being the AC Delco aftermarket packaging.

 

[GroupB]

The item specs on Rockauto say that 10-9395 is not synthetic. Never pursued verification of this.

 

[booster]

The item specs on Rockauto say that 10-9395 is not synthetic. Never pursued verification of this.

Here is a link to AC Delco page for it and it does seem to be synthetic. I don't think a dino oil could get to temp ratings they require for certification by GM.

10-9395 link

 

[THEBRAIN]

the container this fuild came in isn't the same shape as a normal gallon container. at first glance it appeared to be less than a gallon but has gallon printed on it.
the container may have bee reengineered to fit in a smaller shipping box.

maybe I should send back an get the valvolene?

I cant sleep at night worring about the imatation trans fuild dam.
I desided not to take a chance on there being a reusable gasket installed.don’t see myself spending $50 on a genuine GM so I’m leaning toward ATP, I think the $10 fle pro is to cheap to be any good.



Rock auto sells the ATP JG142 for $18.24 plus ship

Amazon sells the ATP JG142 for $24. free ship an free returns. Would be my better option just in case my gasket is orginal reusable.

What type of gaskets are you Guys using ? van has 125K miles on the clock.

 

[THEBRAIN]

Pumped some fuild out about 3 quarts. Then dropped pan there was still about 4 quarts dripped out into drain pan.

Dropped the pan an the filter was laying on bottom of pan. Shoved new filter into position didn’nt seam tight doe’s the pan hold this filter inplace? All previous filter I’ve changed on other GMs the car, Saab an a 1500express the filters always had to be snatched out an shoved in an where in there snuggly.

on previous filter changes this seal was jammed way up inside case this seal was in the proper hole but at the bottom of case now I was able to press the filter up to just under the inside stuff.



reinstalled pan.replenished the same amount that came out before dropping pan.

Evidently the shift linkage just snapes back on an doesn’t have the cheap plastic bushing that breaks like on the GTM360s?



Started pumping out more black fuild couple quarts at a time turning off engine then replenhishing the same amount that came out.

When I thought she was pumping cleaner fuild I stopped.



I may have pumped a bit more of the new fuild bc a bit more than 15 quarts came out.

Now I have around 15 quarts ran engine shifted though the gears an zero on the dipstick.



How low can the trans be on fuild where it shouldn’t be driven until filled to proper level? An yes I had engine running while checking level.



The express has recently been stalling out just when backing up driveway right when I shift to reverse or out driveway when shifting to drive so I crank her up again then shift again to reverse not sure if this stalling is transmission related?



I thought maybe the filter was clogged up interfering w/ shifting gears. anyway she drives excellent I did take the 250 mile one way road trip even on that black burned fuild.



Edit: I’m thinking this express’s trans pan has never been dropped. Doe’s GM recommend driving 100K miles then change the fuild an filter?



Edit2: I believe ppl that have the trans. Serviced have a pump connected an pumps out the old an pumps in the new these so called services leave the dirty filter. Is this true or false?sorry to be so long. An thanks