New Iowa Roadtrek Owner Seeking Winter Storage and Battery Care Tips

[CC IOWA]

Hi everyone. New to Class B, own a 2017 Roadtrek CS Adventurous XL EcoTrek 1600. Looking to learn from other owners about winter storage, battery care, and how Roadtrek designed all these systems.

 

[Doneworking]

Welcome to the forum and enjoy your Roadtrek! You will find a lot of folks on this forum that can be very helpful.

We are fellow Roadtrek owners in Oklahoma City.

 

[CC IOWA]

Thanks

 

[GaryG-ClassB]

I have a 2011 RT SS Agile. Here is some stuff that I think is good advice:

1. Add a couple of 100 watt solar panels to the roof. One behind the AC and one in front. You will be much more capable boondocking and wont have to plug in at home to keep batteries charged. My project: 200 watt solar install on 2011 Roadtrek SS Agile

2. Use the blowout method for winterizing. Put winterizing fluid in all the drain traps, about a quart in both grey and black tanks and a bit in the toilet bowl.

3. make a tool box that includes: drivers for all the square holed screws, 12 and 120 volt voltage tester, duct tape, spray lubricant, pliers, utility knife, zip ties, spare fuses, electrical connectors, some spare wire of varying guages, hatchet, a few nails, etc.

4. Definitely do this easy mod and make the fridge fans being on all the time the norm in warm weather or whenever on propane: Trick to make Sprinter Roadtrek fridge work better

 

[D&C ERV2]

Recommend looking at KS2 lithium batteries and alternatives thread

 

[Enkidu]

@GaryG-ClassB - I’ve been looking for threads on the blowout method you referenced but am coming up empty. Is there another search term? We hit minus thirty for a few weeks every winter so I want to make sure I do things right before my first winter with an RV. It’s parked in an open carport that keeps the snow off but offers no protection from the cold.

Pete

 

[GaryG-ClassB]

You'll need to buy this adaptor and attach to an air compressor with a tank. Set the pressure on the compressor to no more than 10 psi. Drain water tank, remove plug in hot water heater. Attach adaptor to hose attachment on RV. Turn on air. when water stops gurgling out of hot water heater, replace the heater plug with fresh ptfe tape. Now run the air with all the faucets open, hot and cold, one at a time. do the toilet, and outside shower as well. When all the water is out, disconnect the water pump on both sides. Run the air again. The first time you do this, also get any air out of the tube between the hot water heater bypass valves (you will never have to use the bypass with this method, but you don't want water trapped in there that can expand. You will want to use this bypass when sanitizing as you don't need to run sanitizing solution through the hot water heater). You can make a rubber or foam gasket to blow out the traps via the drain if you want to be super thorough, but it's not necessary. Now drain your black and gray tanks and add a quart or so of winterizing fluid to each. That's the blowout method. Here's the adaptor: Amazon.com

 

[peteco]

You also need to run RV antifreeze (NOT automotive antifreeze) through your RV water pump. There are adapter kits available with a valve so you can run the antifreeze from the gallon jug. Takes about a quart or 2 to run through the pump to protect t it.

 

[peteco]

You can make a rubber or foam gasket to blow out the traps via the drain if you want to be super thorough, but it's not necessary.

I poor some RV antifreeze down each drain (kitchen, bathroom, shower) to protect the traps. The excess antifreeze ends up in the waste tank so it helps there to protect the pipes at the drain valves.

 

[GaryG-ClassB]

You also need to run RV antifreeze (NOT automotive antifreeze) through your RV water pump. There are adapter kits available with a valve so you can run the antifreeze from the gallon jug. Takes about a quart or 2 to run through the pump to protect t it.

I have never done this and my pump is fine. I just make sure it gets some air and then gets disconnected. Generally, any place where water can collect in small amounts and remain wont cause damage so long as there is air as well or an escape for expansion.

 

[GaryG-ClassB]

@GaryG-ClassB - I’ve been looking for threads on the blowout method you referenced but am coming up empty. Is there another search term? We hit minus thirty for a few weeks every winter so I want to make sure I do things right before my first winter with an RV. It’s parked in an open carport that keeps the snow off but offers no protection from the cold.

Pete

 

[GaryG-ClassB]

I posted a reply above, but not sure it attached as a reply to you

 

[Doneworking]

I store our 2007 RT 210P in a heated garage so I don't winterize it. Around here it can be very pleasant in the winter and a week or two later be below zero so winterizing if storing outdoors is a necessity. We had three Cs and two other Bs over the years of rving. SO, this applies to my past experiences.

I always blew those units out with air as described. I always evacuated the P traps using a small plunger for sinks. When I was satisfied with my draining, plunging and blowing out, I then poured two or three gallons of rv antifreeze into the fresh water tank (two tanks on some Roadtreks) and then pumped until the pink antifreeze was showing in all outlets (easy to forget the outside shower, at least for me). Finally, I poured a couple of cups of antifreeze in the drains at the sinks and the toilet.

My theory was and is simple: what is the price of the "pink stuff" overkill vs missing a spot and having a problem next spring? You can buy the rv antifreeze at Walmart for five or six bucks a gallon and overkill just seemed to be worth twenty dollars or so when it was below freezing outside.
ALSO, don't forget once you are done to reopen the drain valve on the system and make sure pink stuff or nothing is coming out of it and reclose it so pinkie stays in the tanks.

AND don't forget to pour pink down in the toilet! Those of us that have had rigs for a while all have our own little habits, methods and techniques.