There is a downside to the TPMS sensor though. Occasionally when I hit a bump the pressure changes enough to trigger the TPMS alarm. I called TST and they said there is no way to turn off the pressure change trigger. They were aware of the issue, but probably don't care because not many use the TPMS for an airbag pressure sensor. Annoying at times, but reminds me to look at the tire pressures.
Our Tubby Roadtrek 210 – A Long Post on Suspension Upgrades
We have had one of these manual controls in place since the original airbag install. It is really easy to use and convenient and never has given us any trouble. Shows pressure in each bag and controls them independently.
I have it mounted in the rear corner of the driver side storage pod by the old mousehole.
Dual airbag manual controller link.
I have it mounted in the rear corner of the driver side storage pod by the old mousehole.
Dual airbag manual controller link.
Just an update since the initial install several years ago. This update work to the suspension, including adding the onboard air compressor, has worked great over many miles. The light duty compressor has been fine.
Other than normal pre-trip inspection, the only maintenance I've had to do was to ensure the air fittings at the airbags are threaded in tightly. They tend to loosen slightly with road travel vibrations, not a big deal.
Well worth it.
Other than normal pre-trip inspection, the only maintenance I've had to do was to ensure the air fittings at the airbags are threaded in tightly. They tend to loosen slightly with road travel vibrations, not a big deal.
Well worth it.
RHG-ClassB
New Member
A question for TX: You mentioned in the beginnining of this thread that you went with the black medium duty Sumosprings bumpers because you felt the yellow heavy duty would have too much rebound. I have a 2012C170 with the 4.8 engine I was about to install the yellow bumpers do you think it will be a problem? I have 1 inch donut spacers under the stock springs.
Hard to say. I think the primary difference in van weight would be the configuration and shorter wheel base. Your 170 doesnt have the long overhang in the back. As far as the engines the weight is virtually the same. I'm assuming we're talking about cast iron blocks of your 4.8 and our 6.0. It's always a good idea to weigh your van to know what front/rear axle weights are.
The rebound is factored by springs and shocks too, and there's different springs in each vehicle (spring rates) as well. Booster knows the tech side of this but with your spacers you've essentially moved the upper control arms closer to the stops. If the Sumo Springs are strong enough to overcome the shock dampening, you might see the control arms hitting the stops.
I changed the front springs to gain some height and to have consistent spring rate. I'm using Delco shocks but I'll probably put Bilsteins on after our upcoming road trip. Because of these changes front and back I figured the medium Sumos would suffice and they do. There's actually a small bit of bounce if I back off the slightly elevated slab of our garage, 1.5 inch.
The other part of this is the porpoising that can happen front to back as the suspension loads and unloads over bumps. That also can affect the rebound front and rear. The air bags in the back help reduce that.
Entirely subjective, but I think the medium Sumo springs might be better for your stock suspension. But if you've already bought the yellow, easy enough to try them.
Not sure if this helps, but that's what comes to mind. Essentially the entire suspension should be balanced.
The rebound is factored by springs and shocks too, and there's different springs in each vehicle (spring rates) as well. Booster knows the tech side of this but with your spacers you've essentially moved the upper control arms closer to the stops. If the Sumo Springs are strong enough to overcome the shock dampening, you might see the control arms hitting the stops.
I changed the front springs to gain some height and to have consistent spring rate. I'm using Delco shocks but I'll probably put Bilsteins on after our upcoming road trip. Because of these changes front and back I figured the medium Sumos would suffice and they do. There's actually a small bit of bounce if I back off the slightly elevated slab of our garage, 1.5 inch.
The other part of this is the porpoising that can happen front to back as the suspension loads and unloads over bumps. That also can affect the rebound front and rear. The air bags in the back help reduce that.
Entirely subjective, but I think the medium Sumo springs might be better for your stock suspension. But if you've already bought the yellow, easy enough to try them.
Not sure if this helps, but that's what comes to mind. Essentially the entire suspension should be balanced.
I think a lot of the answer is unknown right now as we don't know for sure if the 170 he has is on a 2500 or 3500 van as far as I know there were some of each but I think mostly 3500. The 2500 has lower gross weight so I assume the axle weights change also. That would make the springs, shocks, and front swaybar change also. If it is a 3500, I would go with the softer Sumo, I think. Can't say on the 2500 as we would need to know where the van axle weights are at in camping trim and how high it is sitting.
A 1" spacer will give about 2.5" lift, I think, so how far off the frame before lift would be good to know. It may sit as low as a 3500 that is near max front axle, or not. Measuring the wheelwell height can give a good indication, though, of where he is now. The problem with spring lifts is that you stay with the same spring rate spring that is probably too soft (the 3500 are) but you increase the wheel travel before it hits the bump stop. You get more motion that way that needs to be damped so good shock essential but will probably need to stiffen the ride a bit to prevent porpoising.
Shock extended length gets pretty important when you lift the front, especially with spacer lifts. The shock is the only stop that prevents the upper control arm from hitting the frame on wheel drops in bumps or when jacked up.
A 1" spacer will give about 2.5" lift, I think, so how far off the frame before lift would be good to know. It may sit as low as a 3500 that is near max front axle, or not. Measuring the wheelwell height can give a good indication, though, of where he is now. The problem with spring lifts is that you stay with the same spring rate spring that is probably too soft (the 3500 are) but you increase the wheel travel before it hits the bump stop. You get more motion that way that needs to be damped so good shock essential but will probably need to stiffen the ride a bit to prevent porpoising.
Shock extended length gets pretty important when you lift the front, especially with spacer lifts. The shock is the only stop that prevents the upper control arm from hitting the frame on wheel drops in bumps or when jacked up.
RHG-ClassB
New Member
Thanks to both of you for responding. The van is a 2500. The front wheel well height measures 35.5 I will look at the position of the control arm tomorrow. I guess I could try the yellow sumos but I can easily return them to Amazon and purchase the black. I went with the yellow thinking I needed the max weight. I will try to get the van weighed. I also will be adding air bags in hopes of quieting down the harsh bang when driving over road transitions. The van only has 50K miles on it. I'm spacing out the expenses, but Bilsteins will be added in the future.
On my 2008 Roadtrek 210 I replaced the front springs with a higher spring rate and installed rear air bags. The front fender wells sit at about 36". I tried adding a pair of black Sumos on the front but the ride was too harsh for me so I went with a new pair of factory bump stops.
Exactly correct and the best way to lift a Roadtrek IMO. The whole point of the lift is more clearance of course, but it also gets the suspension up so it doesn't hit the bump stop on most bumps, giving a jarring, pitching ride. Bumps stops are there to stop hitting steel on steel on very large bumps, not as an active part of the suspension. The bump stops should very rarely bit hit at all. A spacer lift doesn't change the spring rate but does get you off the bump stop, but then everybody has to add Sumos to increase the spring rate, and Sumos are generally much more progressive than springs so not the same result.
The spring lift gives the right spring rate for the load so with the right shocks for the weight everything works together the way it should.
RHG-ClassB
New Member
Again thank you GR and Booster. So now I'm thinking that since I went the cheap route and added spacers instead of springs that I should return the yellow Sumos and buy blue sumos or just stock bump stops. I thought the sumosprings would stop the side to side sway but I don't want a harsher ride. Parked on the level driveway I have a 1/2 inch of clearance between the stock bump stop and the lower control arm.
RHG-ClassB
New Member
Express & Savana 1996-2016 2WD 3"-2" Lift Kit In case others are reading this thread trying to decide how to lift and improve ride/handling of these vans this is the lift kit that I installed. It was 325 dollars with free shipping and included a device to hold the spring while the spacer is added to the bottom of the spring for the DIYer in the driveway. Litfed the van about 1 and a half at the fender.
That isn't what I said in my post above. What I said that with a spring lift you wouldn't want to do the Sumos, but many find they need them for a spacer lift because the spring is still too soft and a Sumo will stiffen it up, but be more progressive. I have no idea what color, but probably one of the softer ones.
Do they tell you to put the spacer in the bottom with that kit? All I have seen tell you to put them at top against the frame and that requires removing the spring a spring compressor to put it back in.
RHG-ClassB
New Member
Yes, the spacer goes in the bottom with this system. The kit comes with a threaded rod and plate that holds the spring in place while installing the spacer.
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