Power Step Preventative Maintenance

neil.henry

Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2016
Posts
25
We enjoy our side door power step on our 2017 Roadtrek Agile. I have heard that this piece of engineering may have some short comings.

Any pointers on how I can keep mine operating?
 
Etrailer has them. Check the Youtube videos. Most of them are about gear train and motor failures. Carry a spare. It is a power window motor. I don’t have a power step so I am not an authority.
 
I hit the moving parts with motorcycle chain lube occasionally. This goes on with a very low viscosity and evaporates to leave a thick lube behind.

Do improve the wiring connection weatherproffness(new word?) as they tend to allow moisture penetration with resulting corrosion of connectors.

On TDY near Almelund, MN.
 
The sprinter step uses a linear actuator rather than the power window motor seen on many other RV steps. I had to replace ours a couple years ago. I was able to use an off-the-shelf actuator from EBay (PROGRESSIVE AUTOMATIONS PA-14-6-35) that has similar specs. The step takes a bit longer to open or retract but the cost was less than $100. Since then I have tried to keep the telescoping parts lubed with lithium grease. One mod I made was to replace the nut/bolt that secures the step to the actuator with a clevis pin. That makes it easier to remove the step and lube the square tubing supports. So far so good.
 
Hmm, who wants to carry any more spare part then you need. A tool kit, extra DEF is all I carry in my 2014
Adventurous CS. Power step was acting up. Removed it, sanded down and cleaned the section tube's that inserts, checked all the connections. spray a little silicone in once in awhile. Works like a charm..
 
Our 2016 Agile has been serviced several times, including the installation of a new actuator. It is impohe step unit itself is rusting
 
Hmm, who wants to carry any more spare part then you need.

Well, the question is what counts as "need". By my way of thinking, whether an important spare is worth carrying is determined less by how essential the item is than by how hard it would be to get during a long-distance trip. So, for example, when I owned a diesel, I never carried spare DEF, since you can get it at any truck stop or auto parts store. OTOH, the linear actuators in our custom-designed bed would be a real problem if one of them failed during a trip. So, I am planning to get and carry a spare, even though it will be a bit pricy.

This is mostly a pragmatic decision involving what you and your companion decide that you really "need". But, if you need it and can't easily obtain it, it is probably worth carrying.
 
Well, the question is what counts as "need". By my way of thinking, whether an important spare is worth carrying is determined less by how essential the item is than by how hard it would be to get during a long-distance trip. So, for example, when I owned a diesel, I never carried spare DEF, since you can get it at any truck stop or auto parts store. OTOH, the linear actuators in our custom-designed bed would be a real problem if one of them failed during a trip. So, I am planning to get and carry a spare, even though it will be a bit pricy.

This is mostly a pragmatic decision involving what you and your companion decide that you really "need". But, if you need it and can't easily obtain it, it is probably worth carrying.

Your comment about bed actuators caught my attention as I am in the midst of adding one to our sofa bed. Our sofa bed is very easy to switch from sofa to bed, gravity helps, but from bed to sofa requires some effort. I can do with just one linear actuator from Progressive Automation 450lbs/max 70sec./stroke 14" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084BQYGY8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1 and hope not to carry a spare. To my surprise heavy duty limit switches (I need 4) are rather expensive.
 

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It's an incredibly poor design that catches dirt, dust, road grime, etc. I have even found driveway gravel in ours.
The best preventative is regular cleaning.
Blasting it out with a pressure washer works well to clean it, but don't leave it wet. Blow it out as best as you can with compressed air while working the step in and out.
As for the actual mechanism, I would not use any kind of liquid lube unless it dries completely and is not tacky or it will just collect more grit. I usually used some silicone spray. There are some waxy type lubes made for mtn bike chains that might work well.
 

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