preparing van for towing.

[bigbacon]

being a complete newbie to towing I was curiouss what I should do to my van to have it as ready as possible for towing things.

I have a 2000 Express 3500 LS extended wheel base van with the 10k tow rating. its obviously 24 years old with 220k miles but mechanically it is sound, although leaks some oil.

I was thinking of having all the suspensions swapped with new parts because I don't know how old it all is and I can tell the bushings are well past their prime. I'm thinking anything with a bushing, ball joint, rod end, etc.

I am not sure what to do on the rear though because it looks like I can get new shackles but not bushings for the leaf springs?

new fluids all around? Brake system checks?

I want the thing to be as solid as possible before doing this eaarly next year. I have two things to pull, one is motorcycle and then eventually I will have another car to pull that will probably weigh about 5500 pounds.

I assume a trailer brake system is needed.

 

[jojobafanzi]

being a complete newbie to towing I was curiouss what I should do to my van to have it as ready as possible for towing things.

I have a 2000 Express 3500 LS extended wheel base van with the 10k tow rating.
I want the thing to be as solid as possible before doing this eaarly next year. I have two things to pull, one is motorcycle and then eventually I will have another car to pull that will probably weigh about 5500 pounds.

I assume a trailer brake system is needed.

5500# is a big load for the already 9000# vehicle. If you are going to tow that kind of load, you would need to do some upgrades and specifically your rear suspension. I have towed 7000 lbs with a 3500 but the van was empty. My vehicle was on a trailer so I had brakes. I have also flat towed a vehicle but I had installed the M&G tow breaking system. Perhaps someone with experience in this are could give you some recommendations. Personally, I would have my tow vehicle in excellent mechanical condition, tow brakes, weight distribution hitch, air bags, premium tires and shocks and heavy duty sway bar, ect... What you are planning on doing can be very dangerous if you have a mechanical failure or fail to prepare your vehicle.

 

[bigbacon]

What you are planning on doing can be very dangerous if you have a mechanical failure or fail to prepare your vehicle.

this is why I am asking..

I don't want to be one of those people who just slap a trailer on their 40 year old, rotted out, pick up and start hauling 4000 pounds around.

 

[Bozeorbust]

If the van is mechanically sound then maybe all you need is new brake fluid, trans and diff fluid, and consider Timbren SES bump stop replacements for the rear axle. Adding Timbren SES made a HUGE difference for me with my 2003 Dodge 3500 Roadtrek 190. Being on the humid east coast I’ll bet you will feel a noticeable difference with fresh brake fluid if it hasn’t been changed in a few years. Also, inspect your tires for cracks/dry rot.

 

[Gourdhedd@earthlink.net]

new fluids all around? Brake system checks?

.

I don't have experience with the van that you mention, but I do have experience with holding on to older vehicles, such as the 2008 F250 that I now own.

From that experience, I would recommend that you replace all of the brake calipers with new ones, complete brake fluid change, and possibly rebuild the master cylinder. After about 10-12 years (130-150K miles) the pistons in the calipers develop rust and then can freeze when the brakes are applied, permanently gripping the rotor. This happened to me as I was going for a fill-up so that I could leave the next day on a 2000mile trip. It was (relatively) easy to take care of at home, but would have been a disaster 500 miles down the road. At least you can have peace of mind about the brakes while traveling.

 

[phantomjock]

Transmission cooler, if there already - service and upsize.
Maybe consider a rear diff cooler?

Cheers - Jim

 

[booster]

What engine, transmission, and rear axle and ratio does it have in it?

 

[bigbacon]

What engine, transmission, and rear axle and ratio does it have in it?

5.7L V8, no idea what trans and axle ratio.

If the van is mechanically sound then maybe all you need is new brake fluid, trans and diff fluid, and consider Timbren SES bump stop replacements for the rear axle. Adding Timbren SES made a HUGE difference for me with my 2003 Dodge 3500 Roadtrek 190. Being on the humid east coast I’ll bet you will feel a noticeable difference with fresh brake fluid if it hasn’t been changed in a few years. Also, inspect your tires for cracks/dry rot.

Tires are new. I can look into those things.

 

[booster]

5.7L V8, no idea what trans and axle ratio.




Tires are new. I can look into those things.

I have torn down 5.7s at around 150K that were at or near wear limits so at 220K it would have needed to be taken very good care of, especially if you are going to tow 5500#. I would get and oil pressure, compression, and leakdown test to see where the engine is at in it's life.



The specs I have found, often not correct though, are that it should be 255hp and 330tq. Torque is not bad, but hp will limit the pulling at higher speeds, especially in hills, I think. It showed a full floating rear axle which is good and probably a corporate GM 10.5" and that is a very good axle, IMO. Gearing you should be able to get by looking up the RPO number from your sticker for the ratio. To pull 5500# you would probably need a 4.10 or so ratio with that 5.7. Trans showed 4 speed automatic so probably 4L80e which should be fine and probably has been rebuilt once already at 220K. Durability will depend on quality of the rebuild.


You will have rear drum brakes which is a downside compared to later models, so they have to be in very good shape, plus trailer brakes, if you go on any larger downhills.


The van is 24 years old and has 220K on it, so unless they have been replaced there will be lots of stuff that is worn out or close to it. I recently renovated a 1996 Buick Roadmaster at 140K and nearly every wear part got replaced, and for good parts that isn't inexpensive. That engine was spotless inside, but was at high limits on most of the specifications. It ran fine and didn't use oil, but it was certainly not pristine or, IMO, up to towing heavy. Valve guides where probably the worst and needed to be bushed with cast iron inserts. Valve guide seals were toast and would break if you bent them at all.

 

[bigbacon]

I have torn down 5.7s at around 150K that were at or near wear limits so at 220K it would have needed to be taken very good care of, especially if you are going to tow 5500#. I would get and oil pressure, compression, and leakdown test to see where the engine is at in it's life.



The specs I have found, often not correct though, are that it should be 255hp and 330tq. Torque is not bad, but hp will limit the pulling at higher speeds, especially in hills, I think. It showed a full floating rear axle which is good and probably a corporate GM 10.5" and that is a very good axle, IMO. Gearing you should be able to get by looking up the RPO number from your sticker for the ratio. To pull 5500# you would probably need a 4.10 or so ratio with that 5.7. Trans showed 4 speed automatic so probably 4L80e which should be fine and probably has been rebuilt once already at 220K. Durability will depend on quality of the rebuild.


You will have rear drum brakes which is a downside compared to later models, so they have to be in very good shape, plus trailer brakes, if you go on any larger downhills.


The van is 24 years old and has 220K on it, so unless they have been replaced there will be lots of stuff that is worn out or close to it. I recently renovated a 1996 Buick Roadmaster at 140K and nearly every wear part got replaced, and for good parts that isn't inexpensive. That engine was spotless inside, but was at high limits on most of the specifications. It ran fine and didn't use oil, but it was certainly not pristine or, IMO, up to towing heavy. Valve guides where probably the worst and needed to be bushed with cast iron inserts. Valve guide seals were toast and would break if you bent them at all.

Part of what I have been wanting to do if just get the suspension and steering components overhauled and while that is getting done is have the engine checked, dropped, resealed, tuned up, etc. This thing still has a lot of life left in it I think. the frame is rust free and everything as well. it looks meh on the outside due to the peeling clear coat and paint but it was well taken care of before I got it. Second owner and the prior use was a church just driving people around and we know who did all the maintenance for them. Even the interior is still in really good shape for the age.

Doing all the work is probably still cheaper than a new van... especially one that would be in as good of shape as this is. They are dumb expensive and we got this one for a steal I feel.

My requirements would be the extended length and at minimum 10k tow rating.

I would defintely get a trailer brake system installed. I would be very stupid to not do that.

I know lot of people tow with stuff with vehicles they probably shouldn't which is why I am trying to not do that.