protecting exposed threads

[RT-NY]

My propane tank is secured by four long bolts at its four corners. I would like if possible to protect the four inches of so of exposed threads on these bolts that hang down past the brackets on the tank. I mostly want to protect them from rusting so badly that they become unusable. I was thinking of using anti-seize but I read that it should not be used for this purpose. Any other suggestions?

 

[dmb496]

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-2...on+automotive+undercoating,aps,98&sr=8-6&th=1

 

[GeorgeRad]

You could get correct length stainless steel bolts from McMaster; they could be less expensive than paint. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/screws/material~stainless-steel-2/ I use SS rods to attach water tanks, threads are fully exposed.

 

[RT-NY]

You could get correct length stainless steel bolts from McMaster.

Yes, that would be the ideal solution, but two of the bolts are welded to the underbody, so hard to replace, and the other two are bent in a specific shape to hang from the frame rails so they woud have to be custom fabricated.

I have used a fluid rust inhibitor, LPS3, to good effect elsewhere, I wonder if that would work in this application or if it might foul the threads. Perhaps not because I think it's mostly petroleum distillates and can be removed with mineral spirits.

 

[booster]

Yes, that would be the ideal solution, but two of the bolts are welded to the underbody, so hard to replace, and the other two are bent in a specific shape to hang from the frame rails so they woud have to be custom fabricated.

I have used a fluid rust inhibitor, LPS3, to good effect elsewhere, I wonder if that would work in this application or if it might foul the threads. Perhaps not because I think it's mostly petroleum distillates and can be removed with mineral spirits.

It is not like the undercoating products that will make things hard to get apart sometimes. LPS3 dries waxy and will actually keep the joints easy to get apart. I have done that many times.

 

[Thevon]

Threads

I would wrap the exposed bolts with several layers of Teflon tape and secure a nut on the end of the tape to keep it from unraveling.

 

[RT-NY]

I would wrap the exposed bolts with several layers of Teflon tape and secure a nut on the end of the tape to keep it from unraveling.

I decided to use the LPS3 as I already have some, and I think it will work well, though I will need to reapply it every year or two. It's easy to apply and remarkably effective at stopping rust, and also easy to clean off when necessary - my only concern was that it might get stuck in the threads but it sounds like that won't be an issue.

 

[jjrbus]

Anyone who has a RV that intends to keep it long term should consider an oil treatment. They can be done DIY or professionally. I have been using Fluid Film but am experimenting with Blaster surface shield. I was using Fluid Film as it was on sale.

The advantage to the oil treatments is they creep, putting on one side of a leaf spring and in a week or so you will see the oil on the other side of the spring! Oil treatments need to be done every year or two. My budd's applied used motor oil back in the old days and had daily drivers in the rust belt that were 20/30 years old with no rust!

 

[RT-NY]

Anyone who has a RV that intends to keep it long term should consider an oil treatment. They can be done DIY or professionally. I have been using Fluid Film but am experimenting with Blaster surface shield. I was using Fluid Film as it was on sale.

I've been using the LPS 3 on my frame rails, especially inside of them. It is similar to Fluid Film but a bit thicker and longer lasting from what I've read. I also treat rusted areas (and the entire inner surface of the frame rails) with oil first and let that soak in before applying the LPS 3. This followoing a recommendation from a forum member here - so far it seems to have worked well.

 

[jjrbus]

I've been using the LPS 3 on my frame rails, especially inside of them. It is similar to Fluid Film but a bit thicker and longer lasting from what I've read. I also treat rusted areas (and the entire inner surface of the frame rails) with oil first and let that soak in before applying the LPS 3. This followoing a recommendation from a forum member here - so far it seems to have worked well.

I am getting everything under there, also bought some hole plugs and will be doing cavity's in van body.

 

[rvron-ClassB]

hi, I would use shrink tube on the threads hanging down, you simply install over the bolts to the desired length and heat up with hair dryer and they will shrink down tight and completely encase your bolts and threads.