Recent trip and refrigerator

[Doneworking]

For years there has been lots of threads and posts on this forum about the old 3 way refrigerators. I post this to just tell you about my just completed trip.

We left Oklahoma City for a couple of weeks and boondocked the entire time in the mountains of Northern New Mexico. Our RT was purchased new by us in 2006 (2007 RT 210P). We keep it in an HVAC controlled garage at our home.

We cooled the refrig in our garage on 110v and the temp got down to 33F in the refrigerator on 110v. It was on for 24 hours this way. We packed the refrig and the small freezing compartment (5 cf total) and took off. Driving down I-40 west it reached the high 90s outside for most of the day. Our refrig was then on 12v driving and kept itself at 39 degrees. We keep a wireless indoor outdoor thermometer with the outdoor in the refrig and the monitor velcrowed to the dash. Thus, we can constantly monitor the temps in the RT and the refrigerator.

At the camp, we leveled and put it on propane with a setting of 3 on the 1 to 5 setting on the unit. We enjoyed a constant refrig temperature of 36F for our entire stay.

Coming home with the 12v on, we turned it up to 5 and the temp rose to 40 for the last few hours of the return trip (almost 600 miles). Outside, it was 104 to106F for the last 200 miles and before that it was in the 80s and 90s once we got out of the mountains. Then we hit the over 100s and full sunshine.

Everything in the freezer was frozen rock solid when we got back home.

NOW, I know some folks have had really different and negative experiences with these old three ways. I can only testify to our experiences for the 18 years we have owned ours. I suspect storing inside in a controlled environment since new and meticulous maintenance by me is probably the cause of the good luck. By the way, I level rather simply with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-0852...fix=rv+window+level+indicators,aps,124&sr=8-2

I have used those simple two levels appropriately mounted on rigs over the last several decades and never had a problem.

Having had three Class Cs over the decades with 2 way refrigerators, I would not hesitiate to run down the road on gas with our refrig if necessary to keep it cool. It was never a problem to drive with lpg on our Cs. Just MUST turn off the refrig before you pull into the gas station.

Apps? Not for me. I prefer the simple life when camping. I want to get away from Digital and App World and just go boondocking.

 

[RT1997]

Would you mind telling about your levelling experience ? How often you have to level the RT ? What tools you use? You mentioned that no apps (I assume no wireless devices like Beech Lane since they come with apps).
So how you determin that you are levelled?

I was surprised how much off level were many of city established parking lots that seemed levelled when I got my device.

If you don't travel much,use relatively levelled parking spots that is mostly the reason of the perfect shape of your fridge.

 

[jrobe-ClassB]

I prefer the simple life when camping. .

I think that is exactly why RV companies switched to compressor refrigerators. All you do is hit the switch and they work perfect.

 

[MsNomer]

I cannot fathom the angst of knowing all my cold/frozen food depends on my remembering to flip switches. I can 100% guarantee that sooner or later I would lose it all.

 

[booster]

I cannot fathom the angst of knowing all my cold/frozen food depends on my remembering to flip switches. I can 100% guarantee that sooner or later I would lose it all.

We didn't have our absorption frig very long and were very early in swapping to compressor frigs over 10 years ago.


The model we had did the autoswitching from AC to gas, but not from DC so it was very easy to forget to switch when in the sometimes busy first arriving at campsites after a long day of driving. If you forget it on DC you can wind up with dead batteries and spoiled food.



But the major factor was that we found out very quickly that many of the places we went to were not level, particularly parking at trailheads and such where you were on not very modern parking lots or roadsides with two wheels in the ditch, with no way to level the van. Campsites at least you can use blocks, but not other places sometimes.


There are quite few that are OK with their absorption frig's performance and we might have been also if we were always able to get level easily, but we found otherwise for our destinations.

 

[Doneworking]

RT1997, we spend about 6-8 weeks a year in our rv. We spend few nights in commercial campgrounds and prefer national forests, BLM, COE and state park campgrounds.

Like you, we never find most campsites (commercial or not) level. We use the Lynx levelers under the appropriate tires. The trip referenced we just completed was to a NF campground and we leveled five inches on the left rear and three inches on the right. We always try to level so there is a slight tilt forward and with the left side slightly elevated if possible to aid the drainage in the wet bath after showers. Yes, I am aware that tilting slightly to the rear will assure better drainage for the AC unit on a RT.

Intuition plays a big part in a lot of this in my view. I also have a small bubble level and a 12" carpenter's level I carry but seldom use.

I wrote this post in an attempt not to be argumentative with those that like to have all the latest gadgets and digital devices and modern appliances and accessories but to simply state (mostly to newbies that will use their Bs for fun and recreation) not to be petrified if they don't have the latest and greatest.

We are not working out of our van like some posters on this forum nor or we spending months at a time in our RT. We are part of the majority of rv owners that just enjoy getting away from it all and seeing new places and experiencing new things. And this is our 42 year of doing it!

Two golf cart 12v batteries from Sams every five years or so and keeping our Onan 2800 well maintained and serviced simply works for us. We supplement boondocking stays with a foldup 100 watt Renogy solar panel and we are happy with the results. We practice good battery management with a simple controller on the Renogy that indicates volts and amps. Very basic stuff.

When I retired from a working lifetime in finance (investment banking and private investment) I simply wanted to go and have gone back to Walden Pond.

Summary point is to enjoy the journey and if you enjoy the latest gadgets and feel the need to know your leveling to a millimeter and your power controls to a milliamp go for it. I sometimes feel this forum gets so focused on those things that it is easy to miss the wonder of seeing the country.

To each his own and Newbies, don't get overwhelmed or discouraged. Just enjoy the journey. That's why we spend the dough on these things isn't it?

 

[RT1997]

Thank you for the info.

I'd say the unique combination of light use, garage parking (!) and your superhuman intuition on levelling is the reason your fridge is not only alive but also in good shape.

 

[GeorgeRad]

Would you mind telling about your levelling experience ? How often you have to level the RT ? What tools you use? You mentioned that no apps (I assume no wireless devices like Beech Lane since they come with apps).
So how you determin that you are levelled?

I was surprised how much off level were many of city established parking lots that seemed levelled when I got my device.

If you don't travel much,use relatively levelled parking spots that is mostly the reason of the perfect shape of your fridge.

I don’t know about the Beach Lane. I used Android app for leveling. After programming wheelbase and left to right tire space (center to center) the app displayed how many inches up to three wheels need to be raised. Then I moved the van 1 or more Lynx blocks away, build Lynx structures to appropriate height and drive on them. Lynx has chock stop blocks which I incorporated to the structure so the van stop in the right place. It wasn’t difficult.

 

[RossWilliams]

I think your success is because you accept the trade-offs and take the inconveniences for granted. We don't turn on our refrigerator until we need to put stuff in it. Usually just before leaving. We never have to level and only level at all in extreme circumstances. We don't need propane at all. We don't need to turn it off when we fuel up or remember to turn it back on or switch fuel sources. I pay no more attention to it than our home refrigerator.

I have never had an absorption refrigerator in an RV, but we had an absorption refrigerator for years in our lake cabin growing up before it got electricity. Our parents were constantly after us to keep the door shut and to get stuff out all at once. If the door was constantly opened it had a hard time keeping up. After a while it became second nature to think before opening the fridge.

Keeping a refrigerator packed and the door unopened will keep stuff cold with minimal cooling. Half empty with people opening and shutting the door is when you start to have problems.

 

[peteco]

Doneworking, thanks for sharing your experience with your RM-2554 3-way absorption fridge in your Roadtrek 210P. Based on my experience with a 2006 210P (bought used in 2011) I would say you are very fortunate to have had the great fridge performance you report without any modifications. Most of the reports on fridge performance in the 210P (or other Class Bs with absorption fridge) are not as good, with many having unacceptable performance. In my case, I have had to do multiple mods to get acceptable performance. These include:

* Modifying the vent compartment to meet the Dometic recommended vent geometry, as Roadtrek did not install the fridge to Dometic vent compartment specs. Distance from wall to coils, upper condenser baffle, upper vent turning baffle mods were done to meet specs.
* External vent fans. I have tried several and now use 3 small fans blowing out the top vent.
* Internal fan: use a battery powered air circulation fan, and may install a small 12v fan.
* Insulation. Placed above fridge to insulate the open space there. Also sealed back of frame to the side and top walls to prevent heat from entering there.
* ARPRV control device to shut off fridge in overheat conditions that occur when running fridge way off-level. This prevents damage due to boiler overheat.

I had to replace the fridge in 2020 as it had stopped cooling sufficiently. From reading many internet postings, 15 years is an average life for an absorption fridge. Some last longer, many do not last as long, likely due to off-level operation damage. When I removed the old fridge there was extensive rust, due to rain intrusion through the top sidewall vent. The upper sidewall is angled and rain water can get into the backside of the fridge. I modified the vent to drain water off to reduce the amount entering. I also made some covers that seal off the upper and lower vent if I am not going to be using the Roadtrek for an extended period of time (over a month or 2).

Dometic installed a fan on the backside of the new fridge for vent airflow improvement. I found that this fan is not in the proper location and is of no help. Thus I installed the fans at the upper vent, which works much better.

Overall I am OK with the performance, but it does take a lot of attention. Once or twice a year the fridge goes into lockout mode with no warning. I did change the propane regulator as the pressure was a little low, but now it is withing spec. I think the Dometic control board is flaky at times (my previous fridge did this, and I replaced the Dometic board with a Dinosaur board). The fridge will hold temp (40-deg or slightly lower) even in 100-degree weather, but I need to minimize opening the fridge door in these conditions.

When this fridge dies (hopefully at least 10 years from now), I will likely replace with a compressor fridge. I see that it is hard to find the RM2554 and compressor fridges are becoming much more available, and at the same or cheaper price. I will need to do extensive (and expensive) electrical system upgrades though.

 

[Kpad]

As a newbie I have found leveling to be a challenge I haven’t made time for and rarely get it very exact. So far the fridge has be great in spite of me. ����* Given my limitations, which direction of level should be the priority for leveling, side to side or front to back? I have a small cheap level that recently discovered has unreliability issues. ��

 

[Doneworking]

I apologize that in my earlier posts on this thread I apparently forgot to mention that I use these for leveling purposes. I have used this type of levels for three different rigs over the years. I said "intuition" and that was a bit misinterpreted. What I meant was after you do this for years you just "kinda sense and know" what is going to be required. Sorry about the omission of the levels in the link.

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-0852...id=1724975303&sprefix=rv+level,aps,165&sr=8-3

 

[avanti]

As shown in this thread: https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f5/level-measuring-tools-14451.html#post151719
my van automation system includes an accelerometer-based virtual bubble level that is visible on a driver's information screen. With this real-time feedback, it is usually easy to drive around the campsite until I find an acceptably-level orientation. I don't carry legos and have only very rarely regretted it.

 

[GallenH]

I think your success is because you accept the trade-offs and take the inconveniences for granted. We don't turn on our refrigerator until we need to put stuff in it. Usually just before leaving. We never have to level and only level at all in extreme circumstances. We don't need propane at all. We don't need to turn it off when we fuel up or remember to turn it back on or switch fuel sources. I pay no more attention to it than our home .

I believe that a lot depends on where you are coming from. The Op was quite clear on different strokes for different folks. For many an absorption fridge is a world above camping with a cooler and blocks of ice. Home convenience is not a necessary objective. Many of your inconveniences and trade offs are just not that significant from that perspective. I don’t mean to criticize your comments except to say that everyone has a different approach and that there isn’t a single “best “ way

 

[sbslider]

I am very glad to have come across this thread. My wife recently returned from a trip with a girlfriend in northern Cali and they had decent performance until they drove out of Lassen NP to Redding due to the fires. Sitting in 100F temps with the fridge vents pointed who knows what way relative to the sun, they saw the inside temp go up to in the 70s.

She asked what's wrong with the fridge, so I checked it out in our driveway for some time. We don't get in the 100s here much, but the temps were in the 80s. Long story short, I found that installing 2 small 12V fans nested in the bottom of the absorber coil helped cooling the fridge down by 10-15F IIRC. I am interested to try how this all works when I can keep the van levelish, the vents in the shade, and in temperatures at least in the 90s. AFAIK, this is the original refrigerator, so its pushing 20 yrs old.

@peteco, I am interested to hear how your installed fans on the upper vents. I've not found a way to remove them for an installation without risking some sort of damage, be it cosmetic or functional. Please share. I've seen your improvements thread but not sure how you remove the upper vent.

 

[peteco]

I am very glad to have come across this thread. My wife recently returned from a trip with a girlfriend in northern Cali and they had decent performance until they drove out of Lassen NP to Redding due to the fires. Sitting in 100F temps with the fridge vents pointed who knows what way relative to the sun, they saw the inside temp go up to in the 70s.

She asked what's wrong with the fridge, so I checked it out in our driveway for some time. We don't get in the 100s here much, but the temps were in the 80s. Long story short, I found that installing 2 small 12V fans nested in the bottom of the absorber coil helped cooling the fridge down by 10-15F IIRC. I am interested to try how this all works when I can keep the van levelish, the vents in the shade, and in temperatures at least in the 90s. AFAIK, this is the original refrigerator, so its pushing 20 yrs old.

@peteco, I am interested to hear how your installed fans on the upper vents. I've not found a way to remove them for an installation without risking some sort of damage, be it cosmetic or functional. Please share. I've seen your improvements thread but not sure how you remove the upper vent.

What model Class B do you have? Perhaps you have an upper vent that is not designed for easy removal. On the Roadtrek 210P the upper vent is the same as the lower vent. This vent design makes it easy to attach fans.

 

[sbslider]

What model Class B do you have? Perhaps you have an upper vent that is not designed for easy removal. On the Roadtrek 210P the upper vent is the same as the lower vent. This vent design makes it easy to attach fans.

Oops, I meant to include that I have a 2006 RT popular 190. My lower vent is like you pictured, but the upper one is like pictured below.

 

[peteco]

Oops, I meant to include that I have a 2006 RT popular 190. My lower vent is like you pictured, but the upper one is like pictured below.

Here are some guidelines for installing fan in lower vent, pushing air up the vent chimney. Lots of other good information on this site.

https://www.arprv.com/rv-fan-vent.php