They prevent accidents before they happen on the road blow out or run flat and crash. I would not have a vehicle without.
Recommendations for new tires?
- Thread starter Atlee
- Start date
I think some are missing the point of a TPMS system. It is not to set, or even check, you tire pressure, IMO.
A TPMS is to warn you of an issue WHILE YOU ARE DRIVING so you don't have a catastrophic tire failure or a flat tire a long way away from getting it fixed. Foolproof, no, nothing is, but does anybody check their tire pressure with a gauge at every stop and in between to make sure they don't have a leak? TPMS systems save lives and wrecks, all the data shows that, at least that I have seen.
I would ask if you ever had a flat on the road or do they all occur at home?
A TPMS is to warn you of an issue WHILE YOU ARE DRIVING so you don't have a catastrophic tire failure or a flat tire a long way away from getting it fixed. Foolproof, no, nothing is, but does anybody check their tire pressure with a gauge at every stop and in between to make sure they don't have a leak? TPMS systems save lives and wrecks, all the data shows that, at least that I have seen.
I would ask if you ever had a flat on the road or do they all occur at home?
I have a set of the Agilis CCs on my 2013 Winnebago Era Sprinter 3500. I put them on in August of 20 and have put 50,xxx miles on them. They have great and I plan to replace them with the same in the next year or so. A winter driving experience. We were driving on I-70 and the Vail pass was closed. The detour took us over 10 and 11,000 foot high passes during a snowstorm. We didn’t have even an inkling of slipping.
The TPMS system I installed (Tuson, an OEM supplier) with this set of tires gives both temperature and pressure for each tire individually. The interface isn’t great but gives all the information needed.
I chose to install the sensors strapped to the rims inside the tires. It seems much more accurate especially for temperature.
The TPMS system I installed (Tuson, an OEM supplier) with this set of tires gives both temperature and pressure for each tire individually. The interface isn’t great but gives all the information needed.
I chose to install the sensors strapped to the rims inside the tires. It seems much more accurate especially for temperature.
We have TMPS bought one for previous RT and again for current 07RTpop210- they fit on valve stem with solar rechargeable monitor to sit on dash-tell psi and temp. It let us know a rear wheel problem by reading a higher temperature unsupported by other 3. Saved a blowout for a fellow trekker a few years ago too. Priceless!
You check your pressure before each trip. I check my pressure and temperature every 6 seconds!
Mike Bee-ClassB
Advanced Member
Re : 1999 RT 170 tires
I have a 1997 RT 170. I replaced the Michelins when they aged out at 10 years with Firestone Destination XLs. Stiffer sidewalls which led to much less wallow at below 40 mph. Both handle same on highway which is straight and not too firm.
Hard to compare our ‘90’s RT with these others regarding tires.
Our van are 3/4 ton running “P” tires not truck tires. They are X-LARGE for extra load and inflate to 41 psi on all corners.
Slightly different animal than others who post about tires. I live in Ontario, Canada and run with all season tires as the van is not driven in the winter. Tires are fine in wet weather.
Mike Bee
97 RT 170
Former 89 VW Westfalia
I have a 1997 RT 170. I replaced the Michelins when they aged out at 10 years with Firestone Destination XLs. Stiffer sidewalls which led to much less wallow at below 40 mph. Both handle same on highway which is straight and not too firm.
Hard to compare our ‘90’s RT with these others regarding tires.
Our van are 3/4 ton running “P” tires not truck tires. They are X-LARGE for extra load and inflate to 41 psi on all corners.
Slightly different animal than others who post about tires. I live in Ontario, Canada and run with all season tires as the van is not driven in the winter. Tires are fine in wet weather.
Mike Bee
97 RT 170
Former 89 VW Westfalia
Adding TPMS today requires very little effort. My tire sensors screw on the valve stem and connect wirelessly to the receiver unit. I prefer the metal valve stems.
The Eyesore
Senior Member
You can lead 'em to water, but you can't make 'em drink.
I'll spare the long story, but the TPMS with temp sensors, possibly saved the lives of my entire immediate family when all of us were coming down from the Sequoias in our new-to-us 25-year-old camper. New to the heavy vehicle, it didn't occur to me that I should use a low gear coming down the long steep grade. About a quarter way down the mountain, the brakes were overheating and we had no idea until the temp sensor on the right front wheel notified us. Pulled over to find the wheel way hotter than boiling temperature. The heat soak that happened minutes later boiled the brake fluid and the brake pedal went to the floor. Luckily we were stopped when that happened. Of course, the lack of wind to cool the brakes (since we'd stopped) contributed to that, but had we kept driving, unaware that we were heating up would possibly have let that scenario happen while driving. In a 4-ton van, myself, two daughters a son and wife would all have been dependent on a low gear and an emergency brake to hopefully stop at the point.
My TPMS was stolen at one point. I immediately forked over the money for a new one. I consider that gauge to be more important than the fuel gauge.
The one I use is solar-powered. Doesn't even require a 12-v power source. I also replaced my valve stems with metal and had the tires balanced with the heavy valve stem sensor caps installed.
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I have been using TPMS for at least 10 years. I could tell several stories. Left over night spot and went to space center. Left space center and had picked up a nail someplace, slow leak. Had a valve stem crack en route and was slowly losing air. I have external senders and pull them before service. Had tires rotated at Discount, 80 lbs front, 65 rear!!!! Last week repacked front bearings and replaced calipers, pads and lines. Right front is running warm, not damage hot but need to pull it apart and check what is going on. Never would have noticed without TPMS. Several others but do not want to look like I am bragging 
snapperdude
Member
We have a 3008 PleasureWay Lexor TS on the Chevy Express 3500 chassis. Our rear axle weighs in around 5400 pounds.
We are considering doing the WeldTec Design 5 inch lift along with new wheels and tires.
We are looking at wheels that are 17x8.5, 8x6.5 bolt pattern and a 25mm offset. They have a load index of 3640 pounds.
The tires we are considering are Michelin Defendefr LTX M/S 2 LT 265/70R17 123/120S E. These have a load index of 3417 pounds.
Any thoughts on this combination of wheels and tires?
We are considering doing the WeldTec Design 5 inch lift along with new wheels and tires.
We are looking at wheels that are 17x8.5, 8x6.5 bolt pattern and a 25mm offset. They have a load index of 3640 pounds.
The tires we are considering are Michelin Defendefr LTX M/S 2 LT 265/70R17 123/120S E. These have a load index of 3417 pounds.
Any thoughts on this combination of wheels and tires?
We have those tires on our Roadtrek 190P 2007 vintage but only have about 300 miles of testing on them so far, but will have more when I get it back on the road in June, I hope, as I have been modifying it to get higher caster settings of around +6 degrees. I was impressed with initial testing, though as they tracked and held the road very well. They probably wouldn't be great offroad though, if that is why you are getting the lift.
What brand of wheel are they? There are very few wheels that fit the GM vans with their stock +28mm offset so curious as I don't recall seeing much in 17" and correct load capacity. We are running GMC Sierra 3500 aluminum pickup wheels from the mid 2000s that have the correct offset and load capacity, IIRC are 8" wide.
I don't think I can comment on if they will be the correct offset or not, though, as knuckle lifts which is probably what you will get often change what the offset needs to be to get the correct scrub radius for the new geometry. Hopefully Weldtec has done the layout work to show how it will compare to the stock feel. High lifts can sometimes mess up handling a lot, from what I have seen and read and a lot may depend on your tolerance of whatever changes.
On edit, I just went and looked at the Weldtec site and kit. Their 5" lift is a two inch spring lift done with spring spacers plus a 3" knuckle lift with cast or welded knuckles. 5" will probably put you 3" above stock Chevy recommended ride height as the Bs are usually off the low end of spec.
The recommended wheel offset for the 3" lift is 0 to -18mm so not the standard wheel offset of +28 or what you are looking at with +25 (I assume plus). Their pix of the lifts show the wheels hanging outside of wheelwells quite a bit which a -18 will give you and they also sell wheels spacers that would make it worse yet.
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snapperdude
Member
The wheels are:
I'm not interested in the off-road capabilities. What I mostly want are the progressive springs and Fox shocks. I believe the 5 inch lift is the only way to get the progressive springs. I considered a 3 inch lift, but they just use blocks in the rear on those.
Method Race Wheels 315 Machined/Clear Coat 17x8.5" 8x6.5", 25mm offset 5.8" Backspace, MR31578580325
I'm not interested in the off-road capabilities. What I mostly want are the progressive springs and Fox shocks. I believe the 5 inch lift is the only way to get the progressive springs. I considered a 3 inch lift, but they just use blocks in the rear on those.
I kind of figured it was something like that.
This is just my opinion so treat it as such.
If you want the progressive springs in the back you can do that without a lift even, but consider that an Express van comes with progressive rear springs from the factory so you already have them.
If you are looking for load capacity and some lift consider airbags for the rear as they can give you an adjustable 5000# of extra capacity or anything under that just by changing pressure in them. You can also buy pretty easily rear progressive springs that will give you a 2" lift.
With the lift you are looking at they use a spacer lift for the front springs to get the first 2" and that leaves you with the same, too soft, stock springs in place. Just do a spring lift in the front with new coil springs. and get a more capable ride, especially if you want Fox shocks as the spring should match better, I think.
There are lots of lifts documented on this forum for bags, front springs, even one user for a Chevy that used Fox shocks so don't be hasty with going for a solution that is more for rock crawlers than on the road class b vans. The wheels you have chosen would then work fine with those changes. We have had that setup for many years and wouldn't go back, except we have Bilstein shocks which are also very good.
OP
OP
Atlee
Senior Member
Got my replacement tires. Went with Firestone Transforce HT3, a new version of the HT2 which came out in late 2024. They were recommended by Northern Truck who works on heavy vans and trucks up and including Kenworths.
The sidewalls are supposedly stiffer than Michelins. I personally prefer a stiffer tire. They are LT245/75R16 LRE Speed Rating R (106 mph) and Service Spec 120 (max wt of 3086# per tire).
The sidewalls are supposedly stiffer than Michelins. I personally prefer a stiffer tire. They are LT245/75R16 LRE Speed Rating R (106 mph) and Service Spec 120 (max wt of 3086# per tire).
Here is my $.02 - still running strong - love em!
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