Roadtrek 210P driveshaft refurbishment

[TX-Trek]

This Sunday will end a month-long road trip, much of it through mountainous regions. I'm happy to say that our tubby has functioned well both up and down grades, and thanks to youngnretired for a timely post:

Tips for descending a steep grade

I've tried to google ideas for descending a steep grade in a heavy van, but all I find is things on semi's with jake brakes. Not quite applicable to our 9200lb 08C210P Roadtrek. Since I live where it's pretty flat and we'll be traversing some grades on our trip coming up, I'm just inquiring...

www.classbforum.com

The van has hit 100k miles now and aside from the regular maintenance I'll do back home, I'm considering doing some PM to the 2-piece driveshaft. It's in good shape, no weird noise or vibration. However the center carrier is getting a bit tired (rubber ring still intact), and I'd rather go ahead and replace the 3 u-joints and carrier in the convenience of my shop at home.

Another factor is that the front two u-joints have the factory plastic injection retention vs snaprings. I'd much rather heat and clean that out at home vs on the road somewhere.

I'll use a GM oem center carrier, but I've always had good luck with Spicer u-joints, specifically the SPL series. I've found them to be high quality, precision fit, and with features such as thrust washers inside the center caps, and high yield ratings. I'm on the fence about lube vs non-lube u-joints with the consideration that the non-lube versions are slightly stronger due to no additional holes drilled.

I realize that there's a if-its-not-broke consideration, but the problem with u-joints is that when they fatigue, they break , usually suddenly. If you're lucky the driveshaft isn't destroying itself smacking the road. Thinking back on the high torque applied going up grades, I'd rather be safe than sorry. I'm aware of keeping the factory driveshaft phasing intact, etc. and I have the equipment to safely remove/install carrier. So its my "free" labor and cost of parts.

Interested in any input, recommendations, etc.

 

[booster]

This Sunday will end a month-long road trip, much of it through mountainous regions. I'm happy to say that our tubby has functioned well both up and down grades, and thanks to youngnretired for a timely post:

Tips for descending a steep grade

I've tried to google ideas for descending a steep grade in a heavy van, but all I find is things on semi's with jake brakes. Not quite applicable to our 9200lb 08C210P Roadtrek. Since I live where it's pretty flat and we'll be traversing some grades on our trip coming up, I'm just inquiring...

www.classbforum.com

The van has hit 100k miles now and aside from the regular maintenance I'll do back home, I'm considering doing some PM to the 2-piece driveshaft. It's in good shape, no weird noise or vibration. However the center carrier is getting a bit tired (rubber ring still intact), and I'd rather go ahead and replace the 3 u-joints and carrier in the convenience of my shop at home.

Another factor is that the front two u-joints have the factory plastic injection retention vs snaprings. I'd much rather heat and clean that out at home vs on the road somewhere.

I'll use a GM oem center carrier, but I've always had good luck with Spicer u-joints, specifically the SPL series. I've found them to be high quality, precision fit, and with features such as thrust washers inside the center caps, and high yield ratings. I'm on the fence about lube vs non-lube u-joints with the consideration that the non-lube versions are slightly stronger due to no additional holes drilled.

I realize that there's a if-its-not-broke consideration, but the problem with u-joints is that when they fatigue, they break , usually suddenly. If you're lucky the driveshaft isn't destroying itself smacking the road. Thinking back on the high torque applied going up grades, I'd rather be safe than sorry. I'm aware of keeping the factory driveshaft phasing intact, etc. and I have the equipment to safely remove/install carrier. So its my "free" labor and cost of parts.

Interested in any input, recommendations, etc.

Yep the preventative/predictive maintenance vs "run it until it breaks" question. Nobody but GM would have the data necessary for predictive and they may not either, but preventative can always be done and the question is a cost vs risk personal assessment.

I don't recall hearing of driveshaft failures in Chevies, even in the ones with much higher miles so that makes it harder to decide.

If you don't have any Ujoints that are leaking grease and they are still smooth they may be good for a long time yet.

I think most of these wear parts are shared with 3500 pickups that can pull more combined weight than we put on them, even towing.

Which rear axle do you have, as if you the smaller, semi floater, that might need a touchup more than the driveshaft.

I will be interested to see what you decide.

The lubed/unlubed debate has gone on a long time and probably will never be settled on. You don't see many of either kind fail like they used to in the past, I think, but there are a lot less rear drive vehicles out there now.

 

[TX-Trek]

Well said - yes I'm a bit on the fence to be honest. I use the SPL non lubed ujoints behind a 454/th400/9in a d they've been great (1 piece DS).

I'll do a very thorough inspection when we're back and make a final decision I guess. You make some great points about the 3500 DS general dependability.

Van has RPO GU6 (3:42), G80 (locker) semi floater axle. I use Redline fluid and a pre-trip check showed it looked like new with about 15k miles on it. Hub temps are well within reasonable low range as well. So I'd say stress on it has been manageable.

Anyway, I'm going to really look at the DS, especially the carrier. I think that may be the weak link.

Thanks