Roadtrek Cool Cat Replacement

[GroupB]

The high noise level of the Dometic Cool Cat unit in my 2008 Roadtrek 210 provided the motivation to replace it with a quiet window air conditioner. Also, the temperature of the air delivered by the Cool Cat was unreliable, sometimes blowing hot air when in cooling mode.

The Cool Cat is advertised by Roadtrek as a 12000 BTU unit, however the tag found on the CC shows a rating of 11350 BTU.

Space is the main constraint for a replacement unit, so I looked for one that was no bigger than any of the 3 overall dimensions of the CC. I wanted the max cooling I could find for the volume available. Couldn’t find anything bigger than 8000 BTU to fit in the available space.

At first I settled on a Frigidaire fgrq0833u1

https://www.frigidaire.com/Owner-Center/Product-Support--Manuals/?productCode=fgrq0833u1

But later, after 3 damaged units delivered to my house, found a unit with the same guts but branded as a Danby DAC080BHUWBD (this model has been superseded), and about $100 cheaper. Took 2 tries to get an acceptable one with minimal shipping damage. Ran the unit for a while on the bench before attempting the install.

My plan was to modify the existing opening to what ever was needed for the new unit, but when attempting to remove the CC, I found it was installed in a black plastic plenum that was riveted to the body of the vehicle. I did not want to remove any more of the body panel than what was done at the factory, so I installed it into the existing plenum.

Needed to shim and seal between the AC and the 4 plenum walls. Then the tough part of fabricating the air deflectors between the back of the AC and the perforated body panel, the purpose of which is to keep the cooling intake air separate from the hot exhaust air.

Net result is an improvement in cooling (the old unit was malfunctioning) and an unmeasured reduction in noise but I estimate a 75% reduction.

 

[dicktill]

Hi GroupB,

This is very timely! My Cool Cat (Roadtrek 09/10C190P) has stopped cooling (and heating), but the fan still works so it is getting power. And as you said, it is noisy. So I am looking at options.

BTW, I wrote to Dometic recently about getting a new control board, and the answer I got was that this style of Cool Cat (either with analog or digital thermostat) is no longer available, AND that no parts are available!

Very interested in your modification. The photos mostly seem to be of the Cool Cat, so I'm wondering how you have integrated and sealed the "interior" end of the new unit into the Roadtrek interior. More photos please! And thanks for posting this.

Regards, Dick

 

[peteco]

I wonder if Dometic is dropping the Coolcat because they don't want to redesign it for a refrigerant other than R22, which is now banned in new units.

 

[GroupB]

I believe it was redesigned for R410, and a corresponding reduction in output to 10,500 BTU.

https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/pr.../rv-air-conditioners/dometic-cool-cat-_-20788

 

[dicktill]

I wonder if Dometic is dropping the Coolcat because they don't want to redesign it for a refrigerant other than R22, which is now banned in new units.

They do still have a Cool Cat model, but it is an "under counter" unit. Whether anything is interchangeable or if this could be massaged into the Roadtrek 190/210 roof cavity is unknown to me ...

 

[hbn7hj]

They do still have a Cool Cat model, but it is an "under counter" unit. Whether anything is interchangeable or if this could be massaged into the Roadtrek 190/210 roof cavity is unknown to me ...

They still sell it, special order, it has the new freon with 10,000 BTU capacity. I have one. It is the same size as the original. The digital thermostat requires easy install changes.

 

[Bud-ClassB]

They still sell it, special order, it has the new freon with 10,000 BTU capacity. I have one. It is the same size as the original. The digital thermostat requires easy install changes.

Downside? Price and ?

 

[GroupB]

Two shots of the interior. New unit installed, then covered. Display and receiver for the remote seen through the center port.

Wall thermostat abandoned.

 

[GroupB]

Cost - about $250 for the AC and estimating another $100 for rubber gasketing, urethane roof sealant, air channel materials, sound insulation installed on the outside surfaces of the black plenum. It's quiet.

Downside was a lot of time deciding how best to do the job, then doing it. Only have one trip's use so time will tell of operational downsides.

Pic is of rubber gaskets adhered to plenum to seal the AC's cool exhaust from the room air intake. Hard to see black on black. This retained use of the ducts over the bed.

 

[booster]

They still sell it, special order, it has the new freon with 10,000 BTU capacity. I have one. It is the same size as the original. The digital thermostat requires easy install changes.

Are you saying you have the floor model or were able to get a new unit like the original Roadtrek one?

 

[hbn7hj]

Are you saying you have the floor model or were able to get a new unit like the original Roadtrek one?

New unit like the original Roadtrk one. It was about a $1000. If your original was analog you have to buy a digital thermostat which is $50 on eBay.

Just call a Dometic dealer and order a Cool Cat.

Install an EasyStart if you do that as the Cool Cat has to be off the roof to do that. Makes it easier on the poor Onan.

 

[dicktill]

GroupB: Thanks for the additional photos.

 

[Nicholas-ClassB]

Cool cat replacement

over on the RT facebook site, there are files on more than one person replacing the cool cat with the LG units...Cool-Cat Potential Replacement Units, these
LG LW8016ER 8,000 BTU 115V Window-Mounted AIR Conditioner (no heat) with Remote Control......Product Dimensions 19.6(D) x 19.4(W) x 12.4(H) inches...also check YouTube for a play by Play of installations.

 

[dicktill]

over on the RT facebook site, there are files on more than one person replacing the cool cat with the LG units...Cool-Cat Potential Replacement Units, these
LG LW8016ER 8,000 BTU 115V Window-Mounted AIR Conditioner (no heat) with Remote Control......Product Dimensions 19.6(D) x 19.4(W) x 12.4(H) inches...also check YouTube for a play by Play of installations.

Thanks - can you please post some links for both Facebook & Youtube? I wasn't able to find any.

 

[Nicholas-ClassB]

YouTube

its there...install AC in a Roadtrek....use that in search

 

[Road Toad]

its there...install AC in a Roadtrek....use that in search

Ignore the 1st guy on you tube (Lucky Dawg), he bends stuff up to get it out inwardly. And, doesn't show squat. Just talks about it.

 

[gerrym51]

I'm pretty sure this unit is worldwide for dometic-but is only called 'coolcat' in north america.

 

[TX-Trek]

Thanks to OP for the info, very useful. My change was a bit different but it's worked great.

https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f5/roadtrek-210p-ac-changeout-11478.html

 

[DWorrell3]

So, how did you rewire the thermostat to get the furnace to work? I, very successfully, replaced the CoolCat heat pump with a Frigidaire, but I need the propane furnace to work. Thanks! DaveW

 

[rhythmtone]

Independent thermostat

So, how did you rewire the thermostat to get the furnace to work? I, very successfully, replaced the CoolCat heat pump with a Frigidaire, but I need the propane furnace to work. Thanks! DaveW

Just wondering if you ever got a reply to this - it shouldn't be too hard to intercept the 2 furnace control wires from near the actual unit, mine were under the rear passenger seat, they're both blue usually but one is labeled positive. Not the power supply wires, but there should be 2 control wires as well, attached to the furnace.

Then you hook those control wires to an independent thermostat, usually a battery powered one, I used a digital thermostat from Honeywell that I found on Amazon, mounted it on the wall near the furnace, and it worked great.

A powered "heat-only" thermostat, powered from the RV electrical, would be great but it seemed too complicated, for now. The original thermostat above the bed got power from the cool cat electrical via the umbilical, and ground from the chassis I believe, so if you install a new Dometic thermostat just to control your furnace, you'd have to get that wiring to it somehow, and the control wires - you could put it above the bed and get chassis ground, but you wouldn't get 12v power from the new household AC unit anymore, so that's the issue - like many others, I abandoned the rear thermostat.

I wanted simplicity, and I didn't want to have to take off panels and try to rewire the old thermostat above the bed, or run power and ground new wires to a new thermostat, wherever it may be mounted (plus the "control" wires) - so I just went with a 2 wire "heat only" thermostat that was battery powered, attached directly to the furnace control wires, you could also use a mechanical thermostat attached directly if you can't deal with batteries.

Let me know if you have any questions on that part,
Dave