Storing your RV

[bboutside]

storage

I live in the Pacific Northwest. I do use my Airstream Interstate year round and also pay for indoor storage the last 5 years. We live near downtown in a condo, so there is not anywhere to park long term (parking is almost all metered). While it is expensive, I have found it to be a good solution and don't have to worry about any weather or critter damage, or vandalism. I can also leave my car there when I take my van out, they store it inside in my spot. For me, it's totally worth it.

 

[Pilgrim-ClassB]

Let's face it, interior storage is always superior - but often not available or impractical.

Having bought a used Class B this week (2000 Roadtrek 190P), I'm limited to storing it outside. The exterior of the van already has some issues, and I'm debating buying a cover since a couple of scuffs would not be a problem in the overall condition of the van. I'm specifically concerned about making sure sunlight is kept out of the interior, and I'll use tire covers to minimize premature aging. But a cover is also a pain to work with.

A good wash and wax on all exposed surfaces will help protect the exterior, but sunlight will tear up interior fabrics and tires. Therefore the least I'll do is add tire covers.

The other issue where I'll be storing is no access to AC for a float charger, nor does the van have solar (at least for now.) I'll probably put a quick disconnect on the engine battery and remove it, but I welcome advice on whether to remove the coach battery as well.

 

[FredG]

I live in NW Minnesota. For the past seven winters (now on winter number eight) I've been using an ADCO cover on our 2016 24' class C.

The front tires sit on our tar driveway. The rest of the motorhome sits on dirt/earth that I cover with a folded over heavy duty tarp, that extends past the sides and end in an attempt to keep ground moisture away from the chassis and components.

So far so good with the ground cover and the ADCO. I'm on my second ADCO cover. The first ADCO I used for six winters and was serviceable enough that I was able to sell it.

I will say that there is a bit of wind protection that helps to keep the cover in decent shape year after year. Also, it the snow gets too deep on the top, I'll use a roof rake to pull the snow off. I like take care of that fun traveling "investment" the best I can.

I would never NOT use a cover over the winter.

 

[jrobe-ClassB]

I make a point to to take my Class B out and drive it every month all winter to run the engine and recharge the van and house batteries. I also run my Espar heater for 20 min or so every month as recommended. I don't have a generator but if I did I would run that every month as recommended. I have an indoor storage space so this is easy but it would be a pain in the butt if I had to take a cover off every time. I think you could make the point that running everything monthly for the 4-5 month winter is more important that keeping the sun and elements off the exterior. I would do the same thing if I had a car sitting outside all winter.

 

[MiddKid]

I live in Southern California. Have had my PW van for 6 years. Always stored outside without a cover. Yes, the tires deteriorate quicker but I usually change tires by date rather than mileage. I would not recommend covering the vehicle. These vehicles are like cars so proper washing/waxing really is all that is required.

Tire covers are inexpensive, as is UV protectant if you are concerned about sun exposure.

 

[Pilgrim-ClassB]

I make a point to to take my Class B out and drive it every month all winter to run the engine and recharge the van and house batteries. I also run my Espar heater for 20 min or so every month as recommended. I don't have a generator but if I did I would run that every month as recommended. I have an indoor storage space so this is easy but it would be a pain in the butt if I had to take a cover off every time. I think you could make the point that running everything monthly for the 4-5 month winter is more important that keeping the sun and elements off the exterior. I would do the same thing if I had a car sitting outside all winter.

I like that approach, too - and I especially appreciate the comment about the generator. It's clear to me from the reading I've done that they need to be exercised and used at regular intervals just as much as the rest of the van. You may have convinced me to take that approach.

 

[avanti]

I also run my Espar heater for 20 min or so every month as recommended.

Recommended by who? Eberspächer? I have never heard this.

 

[jrobe-ClassB]

Recommended by who? Eberspächer? I have never heard this.

Besides simple common sense that it is logical to run any gas engine regularly, my Sprinter Freightliner dealer (that installs bunk heaters into every semi-truck that they sell), they recommended that I run it for 20 min every month on a high setting. I also buy my Espar maintenance parts from this Espar dealer and they also recommend this as part of their maintenance schedule as in their guide. It makes perfect sense to me but to each his own.

https://esparparts.com/preventative-maintenance-n-21.html

 

[avanti]

Sorry, but it doesn't make sense to me. These heaters are NOTHING like ICE engines. They are external combustion, no carburetor or automotive-style fuel injection. I service these things myself, and I am well-familiar with how they work and what their failure modes are. They have sophisticated shut-down protocols that leave the burner fuel-free. I can't imagine what good regular running could accomplish. In fact, start-up is probably the hardest part of their use cycle, since the glow-plug is involved and the system is not at operating temperature. I would certainly not go out of my way to do unnecessary starts.

These devices DO need regular maintenance, but that involves replacing the combuistion screen and cleaning the chamber. This is called for maybe every 1000 hours. If you really want to treat it nicely, run it for an hour on kerosene once a year. It works wonders for keeping everything nice and clean.

P.S. -- It is not a good idea to periodically run "gas engines" either (although for different reasons), "simple common-sense" notwithstanding.

 

[booster]

Besides simple common sense that it is logical to run any gas engine regularly, my Sprinter Freightliner dealer (that installs bunk heaters into every semi-truck that they sell), they recommended that I run it for 20 min every month on a high setting. I also buy my Espar maintenance parts from this Espar dealer and they also recommend this as part of their maintenance schedule as in their guide. It makes perfect sense to me but to each his own.

https://esparparts.com/preventative-maintenance-n-21.html

I gotta agree with Avanti on this, at least related to IC engines. Can't speak to gas heaters as I have never had one, although when I see all the problems at high elevations and maintenance needed, my propane furnace is looking better every day. The hassle of propane not looking like a major issue at all by comparison.


If you aren't going to run the engine for at least an hour on highway you still probably cause more issues than you solve, maybe from residual water depending on how cold it is, how far you drive slow until parked, etc. It is guaranteed the battery won't charge to full in that time, or probably ever, if it is much under 10+F. But the biggest damage you do is put an extra long time sitting (a month) dry start with cold oil on the engine. Watch how long it takes for the oil pressure to come and consider how the internals like running with no lubrication after totally draining back. Various studies show that cold starts can make up most of the wear in engines and explains why delivery vans can go so many miles, especially if highway based couriers who would start once and drive lots of miles.


IMO, the best thing you can do to minimize wear is to add an engine prelubrication system so you never have a totally dry start and literally can have oil pressure before the engine is even turned over. And don't drive it every month in the winter.

 

[GeorgeRad]

Sorry, but it doesn't make sense to me. These heaters are NOTHING like ICE engines. They are external combustion, no carburetor or automotive-style fuel injection. I service these things myself, and I am well-familiar with how they work and what their failure modes are. They have sophisticated shut-down protocols that leave the burner fuel-free. I can't imagine what good regular running could accomplish. In fact, start-up is probably the hardest part of their use cycle, since the glow-plug is involved and the system is not at operating temperature. I would certainly not go out of my way to do unnecessary starts.

These devices DO need regular maintenance, but that involves replacing the combuistion screen and cleaning the chamber. This is called for maybe every 1000 hours. If you really want to treat it nicely, run it for an hour on kerosene once a year. It works wonders for keeping everything nice and clean.

P.S. -- It is not a good idea to periodically run "gas engines" either (although for different reasons), "simple common-sense" notwithstanding.

I agree, there is no reason to maintain – which in actuality is carbon deposit removal for an unused furnace, carbon deposit is deposited only during operation. I would like to ask folks promoting running maintenance once per month what this “maintenance” actually does to the furnace. In addition, as already pointed correctly by Avanti starting a furnace is the most harmful time period when unwanted carbon will be deposited.

A potential problem with these furnaces is fuel breakdown over long period of time, years. Most of these furnaces run at least once per year so fuel breakdown should not be an issue.

I have two furnaces, Hydronic and Airtronics. My maintenance it to run for 30 min on high after a couple of weeks of usage on Airtronics and a little longer on Hydronics

 

[Punkinhead-ClassB]

I have an Elwell Timberline heater and the user manual states

"It is recommended to exercise the burner every month letting the burner run for 15-20 minutes. If the burner is utilized monthly there is no annual or hour based maintenance required."​

They don't say why and the only annual maintenance they mention is testing the coolant for alkalinity.

 

[booster]

I have an Elwell Timberline heater and the user manual states

"It is recommended to exercise the burner every month letting the burner run for 15-20 minutes. If the burner is utilized monthly there is no annual or hour based maintenance required."​

They don't say why and the only annual maintenance they mention is testing the coolant for alkalinity.

They also don't say if that is in periods when it is stored or in use. Not a very useful recommendation, I think.

 

[GeorgeRad]

I have an Elwell Timberline heater and the user manual states

"It is recommended to exercise the burner every month letting the burner run for 15-20 minutes. If the burner is utilized monthly there is no annual or hour based maintenance required."​

They don't say why and the only annual maintenance they mention is testing the coolant for alkalinity.

Timberline is using Russian furnaces, could be translation issue.

 

[Estoniankid]

Most of you commenting are dealing with regular below
freezing temperatures during winter months. Great advice.

What would winter preservation protocols would you recommend
for those of us using exterior storage in a temperate climate where below freezing temperatures occur maybe 5-6 times, and where the batteries are exposed at the rear of the chassis, without any heating unit supplied by manufacturer. Most winter low temps are in the 40s-50s??

My how we suffer when temps hit the 30s!

 

[dingo-ClassB]

I live in Huntington Beach, CA. We have a 21’ Class B, 1999 Coachmen Starflyte on a Ford E350 chassis and have always kept it in our driveway since purchasing it about 10 years ago. Like having it there, to check on, pack, clean, do any maintenance, etc. I love the quick prep to go on a trip, especially when I see my neighbors who store their/larger rigs, prep for several days.
As far as wear, I use a windshield shades or a cover, and since all the other windows are tinted/uv protected and have blackout shades, sun damage is not an issue, except for as others mentioned tires/rubber seals and plastic parts. I don’t worry about tire damage from the sun, because they will hit their age limit before that happens, same as our other autos. I just wax it a couple times a year and use uv spray/Armor All type on any exposed rubber/tires/window seals. As far as plastic parts which tend to yellow like my outdoor speaker covers/vents/clips, I have used a Rustoleum spray paint to make them look like new and protect from uv.
I run full synthetic oil and filter and run the engine once every week or two when not using. I also cycle the A/C to keep seals lubricated, and run the trans through its gears. If a couple months go by, I will run it around the block so that it doesn’t sit on the same tire spots. I have an alarm and that along with the engine computer would drain the battery some, so I bought a small solar panel that keeps my battery charged. It’s an 8 or 10 watt panel that plugs into a lighter socket or can clip to the battery and cost about $40 on Amazon, has overcharge protection and works great. Since I already have two 100 watt panels on the roof for the coach battery, it is always topped off when stored.
Use that saved storage money for those other little things you might need or want.
We have put just under 50,000 miles on our rig, after completing a trip to Alaska last summer. Headed to Texas this coming spring for the eclipse then on to Florida. Anyhow, good luck on a purchase and happy travels!
Scott

 

[InterBlog]

After many long months of waiting for the build to finish, and after a full decade of Class B ownership, my husband and I moved into our new semi-custom home about 4 weeks ago, with its dedicated RV garage. It has two garages - a “regular” one (with a porte cochere for daily drivers) and the one for our rig.

We moved our van out of storage and into its new digs one evening last week, and I was so excited that I started taking pics before dawn the next morning, including this one below.

We do a great deal of DIY work on our van, so the outside vs. inside debate is moot - we must have the van inside. But for most people there’s a big number associated with being able to achieve “inside” in a residential context. I guess I could say it took us an extra decade of gainful employment to get there.

This is a small family-owned builder called Cervelle. They specialize in garages and they are located on the south side of Houston.

Every day, I need to pinch myself - is it real? After all these years, do I finally have my own Class B garage? It would seem so.

 

[The Eyesore]

What a lovely home! Congratulations! I dream of having a barn-sized garage to work in.

 

[Boondocker-ClassB]

Been doing my research and close to pulling the trigger on purchasing a new
Class B. A total newbie here, but thanks to this and another Class B forum, I am slowly working towards a B.S. in Responsibilities of Van Ownership.

One issue I have not seen addressed is storing your Van. I live in Bay Area, and
my house does not have a garage suitable for an RV, be it 20' or 22'. The temperature rarely goes below freezing even in the winter, but leaving the vehicle out in the elements year round has to create issues. I have plenty of driveway space and could buy a a simple canvas cover or some sort of slip cover for the van, but, just like our housing prices, renting interior RV storage space is a significant expense.

Does it make sense to purchase one of these great toys, only to leave it exposed year round?

Any info or suggestions would be welcomed

Thanks

We live in Oakland and keep our B class in the driveway. We don't cover it because it would be a pain and we have solar panels keeping our house batteries charged, but we do cover the windshield and the tires. We have to wash it more than I would like but also we can use it whenever we want. We have the beige color and people ask if it's new... it's 10 years old. The worst thing is the headlights are getting cloudy but storing this for the past 6 years we have owned it would have been quite expensive. Besides, it doubles as our earthquake/fire escape vehicle.

 

[InterBlog]

What a lovely home! Congratulations! I dream of having a barn-sized garage to work in.

Thanks - we decided to build our retirement “forever home” 5 years before we begin actual retirement. Home prices have nearly doubled in the past several years, even in formerly-cheap Texas. Who knows what they will look like in another 5 years - it seemed risky to wait any longer.

The garage is actually 45 feet long because it was designed to hold a Class A if that’s what the owner needed to do. So there’s plenty of elbow room in it.

We are in the subtropics (Galveston County) so we do plan on adding basic finishes including insulation and some kind of wall / ceiling covering. A bare barn like this heats up like a solar oven in our 95-plus degree summers.

And of course it needs a lighting plan, a work station, and maybe a storage loft to go with the initial wall shelves we threw up within the first 2 weeks of owning the place.