Testing and Replacing a 2011 Roadtrek Battery Separator

[teslasmuse]

I was boondocking in my 2011 Chevy Roadtrek 210 Versatile and I had Starlink plugged into my new AGM batteries installed in Sept 2025 using the 110/12V outlet and when the Starlink drained my AGM batteries it also drained the van battery and I had to get a jump, which makes me think it could be the battery isolator, does anyone have any useful information about testing and replacing this unit? Thanks in advance

 

[booster]

On a 2011 you would most likely have a coil relay type separator that allows charging both ways through it, but not use when not charging. On the Chevies those were mounted on the top edge of the firewall under the hood just toward the passenger side of the van. It will have squarish base and a round upper that is the coil. They are known to fail, and you can get better options now that use much less parasitic loss as they are full electronic and often called charge relays or some such term as there are a few used. If yours is closed, it would be activated and should be getting hot on the coil part. If it is not hot it is probably stuck on mechanically. Either way it will be not functioning correctly.

To check for sure, remove the battery cables from each side of it and check those post for continuity with a multimeter.

 

[teslasmuse]

Ih, the car stereo tech thought that getting hot meant it had burned up and was malfunctioning, but should the van battery be draining after the AGM batteries are drained?

 

[teslasmuse]

I called and the tech thinks the coil was already updated to the isolator so it must be going bad, I can build computers, is replacing this part very complicated? I'd love to save some money for the next fun repair. sigh

 

[booster]

I called and the tech thinks the coil was already updated to the isolator so it must be going bad, I can build computers, is replacing this part very complicated? I'd love to save some money for the next fun repair. sigh

It is an easy repair. Disconnect both the coach and starting batteries at the batteries and then remove them from the separator. A ground wire will be on a mounting screw, and you have a power wire to disconnect and reconnect.

 

[TX-Trek]

Maybe for consideration...I replaced the original battery separator with a Blue Sea 7622 magnetic latching relay. The original coil type got hot enough to fry eggs and needed constant power to function. The magnetic latch doesn't do that. I did make a new mounting bracket for it which wasn't a big deal.

Not cheap but the new relay has worked perfectly for several years now. I added the manual override switch into the dash panel. New relay has the yellow top knob.

 

[teslasmuse]

the stereo guy completely unplugged the alternator from the rv batteries without consulting me so I guess I am doing this sooner rather than later, he said it was very hot, is this the coil?

 

[booster]

Yes, the coil is the round part with the two straps on it to the connections and square is the control.

Even a new one will get very hot when in the connected (activated) position. Especially true in hot weather with a hot engine compartment.

 

[teslasmuse]

but what would cause the van battery to drain when boondocking and the AGM batteries were discharged?

 

[teslasmuse]

should it be drawing power?

 

[booster]

If the engine isn't running and there is no solar or shore charging (no charging voltage on either side basically) the unit will take a quite low amount of power for monitoring circuit in it. I don't remember how low it is but IIRC it was under .1amp. We got rid of ours many years ago and have the same relay unit as Tex Trek, except it is repurposed to a different task in our latest power system.

 

[teslasmuse]

he said 1.5 amp draw and apparently now I get to pay someone to hook it back up, although it would be nice to replace it now since it's the original, it just really sucks not being able to charge agm right now, the forest fire smoke is blocking the sun and it's 100 degrees so the generator won't start until it cools down and I don't have access to shore unless I pay 80 bucks at KOA, really sucky timing and I probably can't find the part in town

 

[booster]

Go to an auto parts store and buy a battery cable about 1 foot long with a 3/8" ring terminal on each end. Hopefully, the store will have double ring terminal ones, or you could call ahead to make sure. Some even can make custom cables, which I think Batteries Plus may also do.

Take off the nuts on the separator where the cables go and jumper across the separator with the short cable. The engine should then charge your coach battery.

 

[TX-Trek]

That Surepower 1315 was the original relay I had replaced - I believe they had a recall on them due to overheating/fire.
Booster's bypass will allow coach battery connection without the need for the 1315 to be activated.
Just a side note, if theres time to order, I've used batterycablesusa.com a bunch of times for custom cables.

 

[teslasmuse]

how long is it safe to run with the bypass? I'm discovering that my propane generator won't stay running due to sensor, power, or filter issues that also need to be addressed so I'm living in this full time with no rv power and it's causing a lot of anxiety, especially with the sun being choked out with smoke, sigh.

 

[booster]

There would really be no problem running the bypass in place for as long as you need to charge the batteries, both coach and starting, with the van engine running. You probably would want to take it off once you shut off the engine. We have heard the Stalinks can consume quite a bit of power, so you may be in need of more battery capacity. Are you running it through an inverter or does the Starlink have a 12 conversion on it?

You have a propane generator in your 2011 Roadtrek 190 on a gasser Chevy?

 

[teslasmuse]

I thought it was propane, maybe i'm wrong, it's so loud i rarely use it and I thought the heat was what was causing the issue since it will run (briefly) when it's cold but won't turn on at all when it's 100 degrees and forest-firey outside. If I get the same Sure Power separator, can I get away with getting less than 200A like what's installed?

 

[teslasmuse]

I was reading the tag wrong, it appears the same model is in stock here https://www.waytekwire.com/product/eaton-s-sure-power-1315-200-battery-separator?

 

[peteco]

I installed the Blue Sea 7610 Automatic Charge Relay. Booster had turned me on to this years ago. It works great. I would don't hook up your existing separator as it sounds like it may have an intermittent short that is draining your batteries. 1.5 amp draw should

 

[teslasmuse]

I half trust the dealership that never called me back and I trust the rv guy who I plan to have install it but he didn't seem to want to have a conversation about swapping it out with an upgraded model, I'm shy about doing it myself without fully understanding all of the components. I plan to have the rv guy look at the generator and the ground effects drawer that doesn't want to stay closed at the same time so this will be the most economic use of his time. I still have to save for a bunch of other repairs on this baby. sigh.