Testing and Replacing a 2011 Roadtrek Battery Separator

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Original Member Title: Locating, testing, and replacing battery isolator?
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A member with a 2011 Chevy Roadtrek 210 Versatile reported that Starlink drained the new AGM house batteries and also left the van battery dead, leading them to suspect the battery isolator or separator. Members said this model likely uses a Sure Power-style coil relay separator mounted high on the firewall toward the passenger side, and that the round coil section can get very hot when activated, which is not automatically proof of failure.

Members suggested disconnecting both battery...
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I thought mine had shorted out. I measured zero volts between the 2 sets of batteries. This told me the unit was shorted. I purchased a new one. I measured the old one and found it was not shorted. I reconnected it and it works correctly. I think the solid state internals got "latched" on. Disconnecting the unit cleared the apparent short. Worth testing
 
I wish I knew how old the current one is and if it's one of the recalled units. I can't find anyone to install it for me so I'm going to go for it myself and when it arrives on Monday. it's only a few wires so I should be able to manage it, I just didn't see it when it was hooked up so I'm flying a little blind here but he showed me a couple things, I could probably ask the stereo guy who unhooked it to hook it back up as a last resort. My generator won't even start now, that's getting addressed on Wednesday, but thankfully my solar panels are sensitive enough even with the clouds and rain to keep my battery charge at level 3 and I can shower and keep my fridge and furnace running since it's 55 at night here now.
 
I don't know what I was so afraid of, it was simple to install and impossible to mess up. I still want to go with a more advanced system but for now I've got my power back, thanks to everyone who chimed in
 

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I don't know what I was so afraid of, it was simple to install and impossible to mess up. I still want to go with a more advanced system but for now I've got my power back, thanks to everyone who chimed in
Cool. We also used the 7610 from Blue Sea. Quality name and quite simple to install with very little current draw and it doesn't get hot.

It is rated for only 120 amps continuous but 210 amps for 5 minutes. It worked well in our 2000 200 Chevy RT and is working well in our current Safari Trek on a '97 Chevy chassis.
 
I'll have to switch to that one in the future, for now I just wanted to get back up and running
 

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