Winterize question

[AK49er]

Hello All!
It's time to put away the Queen B for the year and since this is my first winter with a m/h I have a question. On my 2000 Coach House I have a city water hookup and also a separate tank fill inlet. I have never used our city water hookup. Should I put RV anti-freeze in the city water hookup? Since I have anti-freeze in the tank will it flow into the city water hookup inlet hose? Please feel free to add any other comments that may help. Thank- you.

 

[markopolo-ClassB]

I think you should make sure to get RV antifreeze in the city water inlet. On some RV's you can depress the city water check valve until RV antifreeze flows back out of it (when the pump is on). I use an RV antifreeze pump to make sure RV antifreeze is in the city water inlet pipe.



There's some good info in this topic: Link http://www.classbforum.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2396
There's a pdf file you can download, lots of links and videos on that link.

I can get pretty cold here in New Brunswick so I really "over do" the winterizing.

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Note to Roadtrek owners: there's been some discussion that Roadtrek does not recommend using compressed air and that they prefer you use RV antifreeze instead.

 

[mlts22-ClassB]

Roadtrek explicitly recommends using the pink stuff and not blowing out the lines with compressed air. Part of it is CYA because compressed air can leave water at low points which can later freeze.

Don't put it in the fresh water tank because it will never come out, or take a ton of rinses.

 

[booster]

Roadtrek explicitly recommends using the pink stuff and not blowing out the lines with compressed air. Part of it is CYA because compressed air can leave water at low points which can later freeze.

Don't put it in the fresh water tank because it will never come out, or take a ton of rinses.

You really should get some into the tank because you have to fill the water line from the tank to rest of the van, which is very low and prone to freezing. The outlet of the tank is usually to the rear, so if you jack up the front a bit, it takes very little anti-freeze in the tank to get it into the system. The other option is to pump it in and toward the tank through the fresh water to tank valve from the water connection.

 

[renrut]

I used to blow the lines out with air and it worked but after a while, the pump stopped working. If the pump is left dry, the seals will start to decay, crack and stop working. The toilet in my RV also started to leak because the seals were drying out.

I've never put antifreeze in the tank. I just made sure it is well drained.

What I did was drain as much water as I could through the drain points then closed them back up. I took a hose off of the pump (I had a 12 volt pump on my system), put it in to the antifreeze jug and turned the pump on. The pump primed itself and pumped antifreeze throughout the system. I opened all the taps and flushed the toilet until the pink came out. I also opened the drain points quickly to make sure no water pooled in them. Of course, any water will end up in the waste tanks. You can drain them or add a jug of antifreeze to them.

Make sure the hot water tank is drained. When you put antifreeze in the system, make sure the tank is bypassed or you will need a lot of antifreeze to fill it.

My new camper has valves and hoses all set up to do the winterizing. I just need to turn a couple valves and take a hose that is there and put it into antifreeze.

 

[gordonhks]

You could instead just move to South Florida

 

[AK49er]

Thanks for all your answers. I just wasn't really sure how both inlets tied together at the junction (still not sure) but will add anti-freeze to the city port and call it good. The rest of the operation went well. As for moving to Florida...