"Come, Watson, come!" he cried. "The game is afoot." - Sherlock Holmes.
I love a mystery too. And it drives me nuts when a puzzle like this eludes resolution.
I'm leaning back to the low power theory marko posted a while back.
Could there be some fusing or something which lowers power to the fixture
when it senses a low/no voltage draw (like from a replacement LED)?
I'm trying to think of a reason why you'd want to drop power to the rear overhead fixture
if the bulb wasn't working properly. Fire/spark/short hazard near propane/fuel maybe?
Mamello, have you tried contacting PW and bouncing it off them?
Another thought. Maybe the bulb bases look the same but aren't exactly the same height.
If you put the incandescent bulb beside the LED on a table top bases down, and get down and look
at them from the side, do the little nubs that keep them in place when you press them in and twist,
appear to be the same height off the table top? I had a problem with a back up light in the Chev
tailight assembly and the replacement wasn't quite touching the center contact in the bottom of the
fixture. I had to pull on the little tab inside the base of the fixture with a pair of needle nose pliers
to get the base/tip of the bulb to make a good solid contact with it. Or, you might have to tug the tab
in the base of the receptacles up/out a bit to make contact with the bulb base. Just a thought.
BTW Mark, I picked up a new isolator in Ft. Worth ($124 all in) a week ago, while "passin' through".
Now I have to wait for a dry/warmish day to try to get down under the front end
to try to replace the old one. I wish there was a drive in DIY garage with a pit somewhere
How's the 'trek (pun intended
) east going?