Received from Barry:
I thank you for posting for me, in answer to the question of output the converter is putting out exactly 12 volts, however there is no current regulation so this voltage is present at the battery any time the 110v is connected,this is apparently destructive to the battery,my plan is to deny the battery this voltage with a 30 amp diode so that the battery will only charge from the alternator but I could still use the 12v when parked without shore power, the wizard I alluded to is part of the charging /desulfication circuitry that is present in the later converters. Thanks again for the link and the feedback. Barry
Barry - does your "cooked" battery boil out like renrut mentioned?
If it doesn't then the problem could be that your battery rarely gets much of a charge. That would kill it quickly. I would have expected you to see maybe 14 or more volts output. 12 volts won't charge a battery.
This chart is from The 12volt Side of Life:
Basically you never want to let your batteries get down to 12.24 volts. That's a 50% state of charge. That's the point when you need to fully charge them again
to prevent permanent capacity loss. (tech note: true
deep cycle batteries can go lower and recover)
Again, from The 12volt Side of Life:
Float voltage for Lead-Acid batteries should be about 2.15 to 2.23 volts per cell, or about 12.9 to 13.4 volts for a 12 volt battery.
The float voltage is a maintenance voltage. It keeps them happy. The charging voltage would be more like 14.4 volts to fully charge a battery.
I've seen upgrade kits for the old Magnetek converters for not much over $200. What brand is your converter?
The converter in my RV doesn't put out sufficient voltage to fully charge my batteries. I rely on my solar panels to top them off.