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Old 06-22-2013, 05:29 AM   #141
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

Hi Casd,

My only suggestion is that if you are going to buy a new base unit to build your dream Class B from, is to pony up the extra bucks and start with all the options that MB has to offer. In particular I would opt for the double stop sliding door. Once you start trying to outfit it with some extra features, you will find that any module that connnects an MB to any device is brutally expensive. If you buy the loaded version, you have all that stuff built in and everything is bound to work well. In our experience, everything that MB builds works well and is nearly flawless. I'll pop a cap off a brew and toast you to your courage in trying to build one yourself. Here's to your success. *clink*

...........Rocky
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Old 06-22-2013, 05:56 AM   #142
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

Rent first, it is worth the money. Often it is cheaper at the beginning and end of season and sometimes you can get it for less than a week. If it is a class B it doesn't matter which kind you rent it will still give you information about what you need to be comfortable. If you buy from a rental company sometimes they will refund your rent. As others have said, there are several good class B companies. We ended up choosing a Pleasure-Way Excel because it is short enough to be allowed to park in front of our house and we liked the bathroom.
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Old 06-22-2013, 04:25 PM   #143
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lou
Rent first, it is worth the money. Often it is cheaper at the beginning and end of season and sometimes you can get it for less than a week. If it is a class B it doesn't matter which kind you rent it will still give you information about what you need to be comfortable. If you buy from a rental company sometimes they will refund your rent. As others have said, there are several good class B companies. We ended up choosing a Pleasure-Way Excel because it is short enough to be allowed to park in front of our house and we liked the bathroom.
Renting a Sprinter RV is too expensive but I came up with a great idea, I will rent a Ryder Rental of the same size, saw one on the road last week and came up with the idea, $300 a week plus mileage
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Old 06-22-2013, 04:28 PM   #144
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rok
Hi Casd,

My only suggestion is that if you are going to buy a new base unit to build your dream Class B from, is to pony up the extra bucks and start with all the options that MB has to offer. In particular I would opt for the double stop sliding door. Once you start trying to outfit it with some extra features, you will find that any module that connnects an MB to any device is brutally expensive. If you buy the loaded version, you have all that stuff built in and everything is bound to work well. In our experience, everything that MB builds works well and is nearly flawless. I'll pop a cap off a brew and toast you to your courage in trying to build one yourself. Here's to your success. *clink*

...........Rocky
Thanks for the tip on the door, Never would have thought of that, As far as the luck I will use Sportsmobile for the basis, I will work on the solar , inverter, batteries and more storage
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Old 06-22-2013, 05:03 PM   #145
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

Make sure to get with the guy from SMB on what to order. For example, get the smaller DEF tank because that will allow for a bigger FW tank. Similar with the factory hitch because it has some features like antisway and such.

There are other options like a rear heater, remote controlled heater, insulation, getting four keys instead of two (BIG money saver as each key is $250 for the item, $250 for the Benz place to put it in the computer) and a lot of other stuff to be considered.

In September, the 2014 Sprinters will be out with a lot of safety features.
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Old 06-22-2013, 06:01 PM   #146
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

Just saw a post from Lake Region RVs in Minnesota on Facebook. They rent a Roadtrek Agile for $200 per day.
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Old 06-22-2013, 07:40 PM   #147
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

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Originally Posted by mlts22
Make sure to get with the guy from SMB on what to order. For example, get the smaller DEF tank because that will allow for a bigger FW tank. Similar with the factory hitch because it has some features like antisway and such.

There are other options like a rear heater, remote controlled heater, insulation, getting four keys instead of two (BIG money saver as each key is $250 for the item, $250 for the Benz place to put it in the computer) and a lot of other stuff to be considered.

In September, the 2014 Sprinters will be out with a lot of safety features.
Thanks for the tips especially on the keys, I have a similar key for my Toyota, lost one and never replaced because of costs, When your talking rear heater are you talking an oem heater or from SMB ? I guess it would be a good feature seeing your using engine heat , I would have a propane heater installed as well
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Old 06-22-2013, 07:44 PM   #148
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

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Just saw a post from Lake Region RVs in Minnesota on Facebook. They rent a Roadtrek Agile for $200 per day.
I am in the Southwest and only one rental company I know of, Out of San Francisco and Las Vegas, Average is $2000 per week, if you book an off week I think you can get down to $1200, I live in the San Diego area, A place rents RT's but real expensive also, plus wouldn't work seeing I want a MB Sprinter
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Old 06-22-2013, 07:51 PM   #149
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by casd
Quote:
Originally Posted by Davydd
Just saw a post from Lake Region RVs in Minnesota on Facebook. They rent a Roadtrek Agile for $200 per day.
I am in the Southwest and only one rental company I know of, Out of San Francisco and Las Vegas, Average is $2000 per week, if you book an off week I think you can get down to $1200, I live in the San Diego area, A place rents RT's but real expensive also, plus wouldn't work seeing I want a MB Sprinter
A Roadtrek Agile is a 144" WB Sprinter.
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Old 06-23-2013, 02:43 AM   #150
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by casd
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlts22
Make sure to get with the guy from SMB on what to order. For example, get the smaller DEF tank because that will allow for a bigger FW tank. Similar with the factory hitch because it has some features like antisway and such.

There are other options like a rear heater, remote controlled heater, insulation, getting four keys instead of two (BIG money saver as each key is $250 for the item, $250 for the Benz place to put it in the computer) and a lot of other stuff to be considered.

In September, the 2014 Sprinters will be out with a lot of safety features.
Thanks for the tips especially on the keys, I have a similar key for my Toyota, lost one and never replaced because of costs, When your talking rear heater are you talking an oem heater or from SMB ? I guess it would be a good feature seeing your using engine heat , I would have a propane heater installed as well
OEM Mercedes heater. I'd talk to the SMB person about exactly what to order. When I was working on my build (days before I found I was the victim of major ID theft), he gave me a list of exactly what to order. I also was ordering from Freightliner because of personal preference (native Texan, whose dream it is to have a FL diesel rig, even if it is a Sprinter.)
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Old 01-29-2014, 02:17 AM   #151
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

In one year I have received a quote from a builder in LA area building sprinter 170 inch 2500, great work but not experienced on RV type. price high and missed many things

After driving and riding in a 170 inch 2500 parking etc in Southern Ca I decided on a 144 inch 3500 and build because I wanted the batteries solar panels - etc etc , weight . Started with sportsmobile because expierance building RV's. , They were very professional but couldn't have bathroom where I wanted like Roadtrek, tried to have the bathroom on sliding door side said no, then wanted diesel generator and said hung down too far but would install, They said I wanted too much power production and didn't need, I explained I have a house with solar and understand what it takes to charge a bunch of batteries and what solar puts out etc., didn't think I needed that many batteries, (Yes I am crazy but I want to be able to dry camp with many different options of power, I have been reading last 2 years about running out of propane, draining diesel tank, running batteries down or cutting back to a candle ha ha, (Will ETrek design really work ?) This is my toy and dream home, (1 person) , don't blame them, they are 3 -4 months booked and don't need a crazy guy like me to build a one off

I decided I would do a little at a time and purchase a 2013 3500 , great price 39k through costco program. run marine toilet , inverter generator carry outside then build little by little properly custom

Before making a final decision I stopped at a Roadtrek dealer today, I was really surprised how much they would negotiate all the sudden on a Roadtrek ss agle, real 2014 with updated suspension and new front plus idiot buttons on steering wheel, When you look at all the extras you receive, size of tanks etc, your better off with a roadtrek, I don't think anybody can retro fit a 16 gallon propane tank. etc. yes its lots of money but when you figure 39k + 24k sportsmobile start package porta potti etc lots to add and adds up quick

Now I am thinking Roadtrek , will replace fridge (9.5 cu st, probably tear our rear bed and put in storage (fit my bicycles) (or in Trailer I will tow sometimes), its kind of like a expensive bicycle, you can't come close to purchasing a frame and components compared what you can purchase the whole bike for then you add your light wheels etc later

My question ? IS this too light to handle extra batteries weight for ETREK setup then can I install a 7500 lb towing hitch ? like I can on a new sprinter, runs about $1500 with electronic stuff to make it work

sorry, I am set on 144 inch, I know I am crazy but want to park in a parking spot with no hassles , in Southern Ca, some may understand

any remarks are welcome even if you think I am crazy
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:54 PM   #152
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

You are not crazy in the slightest. Here in Austin, it is a lot like southern California, so having a 144" model is completely understandable. The RT SS Agile does some small things to make that short space more useful, for example, the pull out sink.

There are no e-Trek options for the SS Agile. You get the standard propane generator and usual system, and that's it. If you want the eTrek stuff, you have to go to the CS or RS models.

As a compromise, you can always carry a hitch mounted cargo rack when going on longer jaunts and don't mind the extended length. This is how I'd carry a generator and a gas can so I wouldn't have to go on constant propane hunts if I went with a standard RT offering.
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Old 02-01-2014, 02:26 AM   #153
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

It was a fun read going through such a buying adventure. A note related to the last couple and parking/size/agility.

I went to the MB Sprinter site and see that the 144" 3500 bumper to bumper is 233". The van my wife drives on a daily basis has a bumper to bumper dimension of 224". She parks in regular spots both diagonal, parallel, and spaces. Our rig is a regular body chevy AWD 1500. Now i've seen my wife get our rig into some pretty tight parking spaces and she can wheel that like it was a Rav4 So i would think you should have fun building up a 144"wb Sprinter.

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Old 02-01-2014, 03:38 AM   #154
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

Thanks for replies on size of the 144 inch use , Things keep on getting more complicated, I found out the 2014's I was looking at weren't real 2014's either, They are on their way from Roadtrek, I decided I might order one then found out Roadtrek is only going to build the SS Agile with a 4 cylinder engine at this point Wow! , towing with that and the weight inside, sure around town soccer mom as all the RV places advertise , ok, now back to finding a deal on a 2014 that is really a 2013 frame, found one with lots of options, white, which isn't selling,
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Old 02-01-2014, 02:02 PM   #155
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

Lake Regions RV, in the Minneapolis area, also has a white 2014, that has been on the lot for quite a while IIRC. The website doesn't list a VIN, engine size, or pic of the engine, though.

http://www.lakeregionrvs.com/pre_own...h=3378698&nv=y

Ignore where the link says preowned, it is new, it appears.
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Old 02-01-2014, 03:23 PM   #156
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

Booster, I'd be curious to see if that Roadtrek Agile shows up in the Minneapolis RV Show next week.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:57 AM   #157
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

Lots of whites around, I have made my decision and contacted 5 RV dealers in a 500 mile radius, I am located in San Diego Ca, Hard to believe I found a white with the engine mounted 3500 W with 2500 W 12/110V power inverter installed, must be somebody special ordered this unit and backed out, I can't imagine a dealer ordering this in a ss agile

anybody have ideas on a low price on ss agile 2014 , I am thinking 90k before special options ??

Marco will hate me for engine mounted generator but my idea is charging batteries while driving - etrek style setup and use a lp generator plus solar for what little that will do, have 3 extra panels to mount outside when dry camping , I want to build a system that really works , Your never going to be able to run air for 8 hours off batteries , that's why you have a generator, lp or diesel, I don't ever see =myself needed this but want plenty to keep my norcold 9.5 cu ft refrigerator I will install small camera server
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Old 02-02-2014, 12:17 PM   #158
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by casd
.......... Marco will hate me for engine mounted generator but my idea is charging batteries while driving .......
Not at all. I've been looking into doing something similar as a DIY project. I think a single, larger output alternator or dual alternators is an efficient way to put a lot of amps back into a depleted battery bank quickly. Doing that while driving is ideal. I don't think idling the engine for hours is a good replacement for purpose built generator. If you need to run a generator for 6 hours for example for air conditioning an actual generator is better suited for that purpose in my opinion.

This is the info I got from Sprinter Engineering Support in late 2012.

Quote:
Per your request, with the SCR technology of our engines, we do not recommend idling a Sprinter for longer periods than 2.5 - 3 hours.
Even with the high idle engaged, you should not exceed the aforementioned times to avoid clogging the DPF or damages to the EGR valve.
Fyi, the fuel consumption is .4 - . 5gal. per hour of idling.
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:43 PM   #159
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

I totally agree with Marko. Nothing is wrong with an engine generator, but some of the way they have been promoted is not what I would choose. In particular, the running of the air conditioner off of the van engine. Faster charging of batteries, running the microwave, running a hair dryer, running an electric cooktop, are all made possible by the engine generator and running the van, without having to start a generator, which is nice.

I think it will all settle out after a while, and the running of the air conditioner will drop off the radar, but the other benefits will stay. This will allow the manufacturers to not need a huge 3500 watt generator, so they could just use one of the upgraded alternators in the 250-300 amp range (180+ at idle probably).

A class B with could be easily made with 520AH of batteries (if you use 4 GC2 wet cells), a 300 amp alternator, a 3-5000 watt pure sine wave inverter, and 300-400 watts of solar. You would have plenty of power for everything but the air conditioner, could run things like the microwave without the van running for reasonable lengths of time with that much battery, could stay off grid for a very long time if it was sunny, and recover the charge quickly while driving. You would still need to have a generator for the air conditioner.

The other question to ponder. The van engine has an air conditioner on it that is probably in the 25K+ btu range (couldn't find exact numbers in a quick search), which is at least double what the roof air is on an e-trek. If you have to run the engine anyway, why would you not just run the van air conditioner and leave off the roof air, saving all the inefficiencies of generating the power, inverting it, etc. It would also negate the need for such a huge generator, unless you had something else that was going pull a lot of power for a long time. It would also keep the engine warmer, which is good for diesels at idle, I hear.
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Old 02-02-2014, 04:27 PM   #160
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Default Re: Deciding on which class B to buy.

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If you have to run the engine anyway, why would you not just run the van air conditioner and leave off the roof air, saving all the inefficiencies of generating the power, inverting it, etc. It would also negate the need for such a huge generator, unless you had something else that was going pull a lot of power for a long time. It would also keep the engine warmer, which is good for diesels at idle, I hear.
You wouldn't be running the engine stopped because possible damage as posted earlier by Marco, charge while driving

I have a xantax freedom 3000 hooked up for 3 years with 2 batteries, If you watch the way this unit carefully charges the batteries its amazing, One thing I want to avoid over ETREK is fast charging of batteries plus not running them below 50 % , Even with 8 batteries with ETREK its like having 4, I assume they have the engine start-up regularly to avoid running the batteries low, I guess ?? Lithium is different but too much $$$$, I hope the Roadtrek charger\inverter is as good as the Xantrex I have for house backup of certain items

I have a Sony tablet PC, I was wondering why the battery was always only 75 % charged, finally looked into it and Sony has 3 settings in the BIOS , battery life is better at first setting 50 % second 75 % factory default and 3rd 100 %, after finding this out I set on 50 % then switch to 100 % when I want 7 hours of battery use

I sell Lithium batteries for recreational use, All the brands have lots of problems and you don't want to have lights or any kind of draining load hooked to them, otherwise they will hold a charge for a long time, There are many kinds of lithium batteries but I think for RV's its the wrong type of battery, electronics, model airplanes, A offroad motorcycle with lights, A road race motorcycle is the best application from what I have seen, We will know in a few years
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