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Old 09-04-2020, 03:08 AM   #1
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Default Roadtrek exhaust hanger

This is a great forum so Iím posting asking for help - our year 2000 RT Chevy has had a couple of exhaust hanger issues and in the course of trying to get it fixed I never took a photo of the original hanger system, which now is changed. The last repair shop totally bungled it and itís in for another re-do. Itís the hanger by the rear passenger shock. (Original issue was the hanger rod was slowly drilling a hole in the fiberglass underbelly of the RV). If anybody has time to post a photo of a similar hanger it would be much appreciated!
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Old 09-04-2020, 03:32 AM   #2
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This is what I used on my Chevy Express-based Airstream Avenue:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cummins-Ona...item1f0e1e85a1

The clamp is the proper size for the onan exhaust and the metal strap (while sturdy enough) can be easily bent to comform or can be cut if a shorter strap is needed.

Note to others: If your van is more than 5 yrs. old or if you haven't checked your onan exhaust strap in a while, do so. Mine hadn't yet failed but the "tire strap" (rubber) portion was nearly cracked in two after only 7 yrs. I'm pretty sure if it had failed completely, my entire Onan exhaust would have detached and been lying in the road somewhere.
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Old 09-04-2020, 11:47 AM   #3
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I can't help with the hanger pic as my exhaust has been replaced.

They have universal type hangers at auto parts stores that can be configured in a gazillion different ways.
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Old 09-04-2020, 03:00 PM   #4
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I can't help with the hanger pic as my exhaust has been replaced.

They have universal type hangers at auto parts stores that can be configured in a gazillion different ways.
Bummer! I was hoping somebody with my van had a photo. Itís the metal structure/hanger that needs to be rebuilt. Iím on my 3rd repair shop with this.
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Old 09-04-2020, 03:35 PM   #5
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Ooops! I posted previously thinking this thread was for the Onan exhaust. Since it appears to be about the engine exhaust, I'm surprised the first shop was unable to fix it, much less the third (now looking for a 4th).
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Old 09-04-2020, 04:12 PM   #6
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Ooops! I posted previously thinking this thread was for the Onan exhaust. Since it appears to be about the engine exhaust, I'm surprised the first shop was unable to fix it, much less the third (no looking for a 4th).
Thanks for your post- yes itís the van exhaust- I should have remembered thereís a generator too! Actually I miscounted: today itís at the 4th place for repair. I guess exhaust fabrication is more of an art than a science.
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Old 09-04-2020, 04:20 PM   #7
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I can't recall for certain, but I do seem to remember reading that the 200 which is built on the Chevy cutaway chassis did not use the OEM exhaust system like the full bodied vans did, so all the hangers and other things very likely could have been aftermarket from the factory.


Perhaps you might be able to get some information from the new Roadtrek about what was actually used. For Full bodied vans you just need to go factory parts or duplicates, but my not be the case for the 200.


Good exhaust shops normally have a big assortment of hangers and know how to use them so the last and work well, but exhaust shop quality level is a highly variable thing, at least around our area.
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Old 09-04-2020, 04:33 PM   #8
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I guess my personality is an irritant to some of these guys - you could call them gunslingers- Anyway the current repair guy agrees the muffler is 2” too low now and plans to raise it and simultaneously avoid touching the heat shields and the frame
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Old 09-15-2020, 07:24 PM   #9
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Attached is a rather rusty exhaust hanger from a 2000 Roadtrek 200 Versatile. Sorry for posting so late in the thread. Hope it helps.
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File Type: jpg RT200Exhaust.jpg (100.4 KB, 5 views)
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Old 09-15-2020, 07:50 PM   #10
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Here are 5 photos from my 2005 roadtrek Versatile.

I crawled underneath just now so they are current.

Please note that I do have a custom Magnaflow Exhaust & a Custom Exhaust tip.

If you are in Los Angeles, I hsve the best shop who can customize any Hanger you need, at a fraction of the price of the big stores & guarantee the work for Life.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20200915_124013.jpg (187.6 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg 20200915_124027.jpg (165.6 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg 20200915_124053.jpg (192.9 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 20200915_124114.jpg (179.4 KB, 3 views)
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Old 09-15-2020, 08:03 PM   #11
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Much thanks to all the folks posting their photos! I know how hard it is to take those, and a dirty experience!
Unfortunately, the closest one is the last photo from the Mexican Doctor and it's still looking quite different from mine, maybe because of the year of your RT? The problem hanger is just to the rear of my muffler, right where the passenger rear shock absorber is attached to the body of the RT (not the axle). RT is still in the shop of course after 2+ weeks. Newest problem is finding a replacement starter that fits! This will be starter #2 and the first replacement failed after 1 year. Still no final design on the exhaust hanger from the shop.
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Old 09-15-2020, 08:27 PM   #12
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Your starter is a commonly used part- 10's of millions on the road

the gm "starter" has 3 parts:

1.) the solenoid switch ( the small canister riding piggy back on teh starter)

2.) the starter

3.) the "bendix" or starter gear

1.) the solenoid switch is damaged if trying to start with a bad battery or a bad connection- the low voltage will cause a "chattering" sound. with each chatter the interior contacts are arcing and pitting and carbon is deposited on a disk
easy fix- remove and clean disk or turn over to the clean side- clean good tight clean connections and condition of cables ( i've seen cables rotten inside the PVC insulation)
SOME replace with a remote solenoid, such as ford uses- easier to service and doesn't get hot

2.) the starter itself only has a few things to go bad- the windings, the bearings or the brushes- that's it. windings is fatal- brushes/bearing is dead easy fix.
the commutator some times needs to be cleaned ( with a hacksaw blade the mica is cut back)


3.) the bendix is the geared shaft which extends to engage the flywheel and then retracts once the motor is running- it is doesn't retract the starter will keep spinning even when the key turned back
this indicates a mounting alignment and shims may be needed.

make sure any shop warranties their work- so it is costly if they have a "return" or "customer come back" as they are using a good tech to fix the work of a crap tech
a shop will make more money selling you a new part and installing it


here is what replacement takes- quicker than brewing a pot of coffee



demand any removed parts

I've had many many vehicles and never a starter which couldn't be easily and inexpensively serviced ( except the right knee from kicking over antique motorcycles)- I have never never ever replaced a starter


I'm not expecting you to crawl under your van..(if you do disconnect the battery negative cable!)- just some info when you are getting service.


posting your location may get you recommendations for a shop


Mike
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Old 09-15-2020, 09:34 PM   #13
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Comes off the frame to the muffler
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File Type: jpg RT200MufflerHolder2.jpg (88.6 KB, 7 views)
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Old 09-15-2020, 10:01 PM   #14
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I don't know if its a blind spot your particular shop has or they don't have access to a welding equipment in house but a Welder can fabricate anything & usually out perform oem standards.

But guess what; You are in the right place to get help.

Is there a thread specific to your model somewhere in our history?
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Old 09-15-2020, 11:10 PM   #15
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I just saw this post published today, he might have your answer ...

2000 RT Versatile 200 on Chevy chassis for sale - Class B Forums
https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...ale-11172.html
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Old 09-15-2020, 11:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcurrier View Post
Comes off the frame to the muffler
You found it! Very helpful; thanks!
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Old 09-15-2020, 11:13 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkguitar View Post
Your starter is a commonly used part- 10's of millions on the road

the gm "starter" has 3 parts:

1.) the solenoid switch ( the small canister riding piggy back on teh starter)

2.) the starter

3.) the "bendix" or starter gear

1.) the solenoid switch is damaged if trying to start with a bad battery or a bad connection- the low voltage will cause a "chattering" sound. with each chatter the interior contacts are arcing and pitting and carbon is deposited on a disk
easy fix- remove and clean disk or turn over to the clean side- clean good tight clean connections and condition of cables ( i've seen cables rotten inside the PVC insulation)
SOME replace with a remote solenoid, such as ford uses- easier to service and doesn't get hot

2.) the starter itself only has a few things to go bad- the windings, the bearings or the brushes- that's it. windings is fatal- brushes/bearing is dead easy fix.
the commutator some times needs to be cleaned ( with a hacksaw blade the mica is cut back)


3.) the bendix is the geared shaft which extends to engage the flywheel and then retracts once the motor is running- it is doesn't retract the starter will keep spinning even when the key turned back
this indicates a mounting alignment and shims may be needed.

make sure any shop warranties their work- so it is costly if they have a "return" or "customer come back" as they are using a good tech to fix the work of a crap tech
a shop will make more money selling you a new part and installing it


here is what replacement takes- quicker than brewing a pot of coffee



demand any removed parts

I've had many many vehicles and never a starter which couldn't be easily and inexpensively serviced ( except the right knee from kicking over antique motorcycles)- I have never never ever replaced a starter


I'm not expecting you to crawl under your van..(if you do disconnect the battery negative cable!)- just some info when you are getting service.


posting your location may get you recommendations for a shop


Mike
Thanks for this info. I wish my husband and I were more mechanically inclined and we could do some of these things ourselves.

To justify all these expensive repairs ($600 for this starter) I always think about the cost of a new Winnebago Revel.
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Old 09-16-2020, 12:56 AM   #18
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Thanks for this info. I wish my husband and I were more mechanically inclined and we could do some of these things ourselves.

To justify all these expensive repairs ($600 for this starter) I always think about the cost of a new Winnebago Revel.
Be grateful.

You are blessed with skills in other areas.

It seems very overpriced, if you were in LA I could point you to some trusted professionals.

The Grass is always greener on the other side of the fence*.

Their is such a phenomena known as RV Envy.

And it can happen just after you paid top money fpr a rig like a Winnebago Revel, a Tiffin Class A or even a Pop Top & your temporary campground neighbour has something better that you need, on his older, modified rig, you cannot add.

Enjoy your travels & if you are ever in LA & need work done, contact me first. And MK Guitar also seems to know a few places here as well.
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Old 09-16-2020, 01:06 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Average_alice View Post
Thanks for this info. I wish my husband and I were more mechanically inclined and we could do some of these things ourselves.
exactly why I took courses at Santa Monica College- I was sick of the mysteries of cost and shoddy work.
I have ASE certification ( w/o specialty) and work on my own stuff

Many CC's have basic auto courses which can save you thousands- even if not doing the job you should have an idea of what is involved.
an acdelco starter for your van is under $150, and as you see the swap takes minutes ( my coffee maker takes 14 for a pot)
i bet i could...



Mike
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