Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 09-13-2016, 12:56 PM   #1
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 881
Default battery isolator replacement

Seems that my Sure Power 16023A is done.

I am now working in EU, before leaving home the other day with coach battery switched "off", I disconnected my chassis battery and...the underhood light stayed on! ...running off the shore power.


When i get back home I'll get into it but first suspect is the battery isolator.


the 2006 Pleasure-Way Lexor ( Chev) has a stock electrical system- nothing special or added ( like solar or extra batteries).

another SP16023A would be easy in terms of cabling and mounting- a direct easy swap.

What is a suggested battery isolator- anything better come up in the 10 years since my van was built?



Thanks, Mike
__________________

mkguitar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2016, 02:03 PM   #2
Platinum Member
 
markopolo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 8,045
Default

Other members here will know what the latest & best units available are. My understanding is that those traditional isolators tend to cause a significant voltage drop at the house battery.

I'll chime in with the low cost Aopec unit I installed: http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f8...lled-3409.html

The advantages would be insignificant voltage drop if any, bi-directional so both the house and chassis batteries charge when plugged in or on solar etc. With my clamp-on ammeter, I measured 0.25A to 0.28A current draw when engaged (cut in 13.3v / cut out 12.8v). You can use a switch to break/make the tiny gauge ground wire to manually disengage the house and chassis batteries if/when desired. (that's contrary to what Aopec told me in an email - but I clearly hear the "clunk" sound caused by the unit engaging/disengaging when I use the switch I installed)

It's rated 140A so only good for appropriate capacity systems.

I didn't know much about the brand before I bought it or even now but it is still working and price was pretty nice for the feature set.
__________________

__________________
Two bikes on sliding cargo box: https://www.classbforum.com/forums/m...icture206.html & 1997 GMC Savana 6.5L Turbo Diesel Custom Camper Van Specifications: https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...vana-5864.html
markopolo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2016, 02:40 PM   #3
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 8,101
Default

I have two of these sitting on my shelf used, but now unused:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/761...12_24V_DC_120A

They use a bit of power when combined at 175ma but only 15 when open. 120 amp continuous rated. They are nice because they have an input that will force them open to disconnect the coach if the batteries are full. You just use a switch and put 12v on the input.

$20 apiece plus shipping? or whatever
booster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2016, 05:57 PM   #4
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 881
Default

Thanks but the BlueSea are under-rated for my alternator

Mike
mkguitar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2016, 06:04 PM   #5
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 8,101
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mkguitar View Post
Thanks but the BlueSea are under-rated for my alternator

Mike
I don't know Pleasure-way wiring, but many B's have 80 amp breakers in the coach to engine cable, which would be 4 gauge. That would limit what you put through the separator to the 80 amps. That is how our Roadtrek was wired and breakered.
booster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2016, 06:15 AM   #6
New Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: USA
Posts: 1
Default

Very simply, MOSFET based isolator from Perfect Switch is what's in my Sprinter. Seen them on Newell Coaches too. Far better than mechanical switches and not like the old diode style isolators....these have essentially no voltage drop. www.perfectswitch.com
jumpshowhigh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2016, 11:51 AM   #7
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 881
Default

This needs further investigation.

Pulling the terminals shows signal between the A and batteries 1 and 2 and signal between E and A- so that all checks out.

Reconnecting everything as of today shows normal operation ( No power to chassis with chassis battery disconnected)- so no underhood light on by itself

As expected power at #2 terminal from aux battery ( switched off) when shore power is connected.

I will be looking further.

Mike
mkguitar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2016, 06:37 PM   #8
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 511
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by booster View Post
I have two of these sitting on my shelf used, but now unused:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/761...12_24V_DC_120A

They use a bit of power when combined at 175ma but only 15 when open. 120 amp continuous rated. They are nice because they have an input that will force them open to disconnect the coach if the batteries are full. You just use a switch and put 12v on the input.

$20 apiece plus shipping? or whatever
Hey booster I am interested in these. I tried to send a PM but it is not showing it sent. PM me. Thanks.
peteco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2016, 09:53 AM   #9
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 881
Default

Found the cause of the initial under hood light on with battery disconnected!

I had a battery trickle charger on my chassis battery- and shore power connected- even though the battery negative was disconnected...the battery was "seeing" chassis ground through the 2 extension cords plugged into my house...

I put a grey ground lift on my trickle charger and the underhood light and chassis have no power to them anymore.

So there is/was no problem with my isolator

duh!

Mike
mkguitar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2016, 12:02 PM   #10
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 8,101
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mkguitar View Post
Found the cause of the initial under hood light on with battery disconnected!

I had a battery trickle charger on my chassis battery- and shore power connected- even though the battery negative was disconnected...the battery was "seeing" chassis ground through the 2 extension cords plugged into my house...

I put a grey ground lift on my trickle charger and the underhood light and chassis have no power to them anymore.

So there is/was no problem with my isolator

duh!

Mike
I have never checked to see if a charger has the 12v negative tied to the safety ground. It never occurred to me that it even might be. I wonder is most/all chargers do that.
booster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2016, 03:30 PM   #11
Platinum Member
 
markopolo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 8,045
Default

deleted my other post

What is the second extension cord connected to? Was it another trickle charger or the coach AC panel?
__________________
Two bikes on sliding cargo box: https://www.classbforum.com/forums/m...icture206.html & 1997 GMC Savana 6.5L Turbo Diesel Custom Camper Van Specifications: https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...vana-5864.html
markopolo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2016, 03:43 PM   #12
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 881
Default

There is shore power.

and the trickle charger extension cord

both are connected to outlets at the house..

the circuit is completed through the grounding of the house outlets.

lifting the ground of either of the cords breaks the circuit


what this really points to is my initial concern ( underhood light & chassis energized) is that I had the trickle charger in place and didn;t think to remove it...
Considering I work with electronics- this is shameful- and I got hung up on assuming an isolator problem- where one didn;t exist.

The good news is that I have gone through some wiring and cleaned up the connections.

Mike
mkguitar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2016, 04:32 PM   #13
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 8,101
Default

That is the part I don't get. The AC ground is on the neutral by code at the box in your house, so both grounds, and neutrals are the same. The DC side is separate, or so I thought, so how would the ground of the chassis battery get connected to the frame of the vehicle unless the negative of the trickle charger is connected to the AC safety ground? I need to go out and check a couple of chargers and see if they are electrically connected between DC negative and AC safety ground.
booster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2016, 04:48 PM   #14
Site Team
 
avanti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 3,480
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by booster View Post
The DC side is separate, or so I thought, so how would the ground of the chassis battery get connected to the frame of the vehicle
???
My understanding is that the DC battery ground is almost always connected to the chassis. Mine certainly is.

For one thing, this would HAVE to be the case if you are using your engine alternator as a charging source.
__________________
Formerly: 2005 Airstream Interstate (Sprinter 2500 T1N)
Now!: 2014 Great West Vans Legend SE (Sprinter 3500 NCV3 I4)
avanti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2016, 05:00 PM   #15
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 8,101
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by avanti View Post
???
My understanding is that the DC battery ground is almost always connected to the chassis. Mine certainly is.

For one thing, this would HAVE to be the case if you are using your engine alternator as a charging source.
I probably wasn't clear on that. He has his chassis battery negative cable off, positive still on, and the battery is still connected to the chassis through the trickle charger and shore charger. The only way that could happen, I think is if the trickle charger 12v negative is connected to trickle charger AC safety ground.
booster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2016, 05:03 PM   #16
Site Team
 
avanti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 3,480
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by booster View Post
I probably wasn't clear on that. He has his chassis battery negative cable off, positive still on, and the battery is still connected to the chassis through the trickle charger and shore charger. The only way that could happen, I think is if the trickle charger 12v negative is connected to trickle charger AC safety ground.
Ah, now I see what you were saying. Sorry.
__________________
Formerly: 2005 Airstream Interstate (Sprinter 2500 T1N)
Now!: 2014 Great West Vans Legend SE (Sprinter 3500 NCV3 I4)
avanti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2016, 07:05 PM   #17
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 8,101
Default

I just checked the 3 standalone chargers that I have available. The Ctek is two wire, so doesn't apply.

The old sears fixed voltage unit shows megaohms between 12v negative and AC safety ground.

The Blue Sea marine charger that I use as a bench charger showed megaohms and then open, so must have charged a capacitor.

The trickle charger mkguitar has must be wired differently than regular chargers.
__________________

booster is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT. The time now is 06:48 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×