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06-13-2017, 04:16 AM
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#141
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: CA
Posts: 1,668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingedRyno
Somebody said it meant the dealer wouldn't get any units "like" ours delivered until ours was delivered. FWIW.
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It is late enough in this year that you may be able to have your coach built as a 2018 model although the chassis will most likely be a 2017 or even 2016.
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06-13-2017, 12:37 PM
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#142
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: WA
Posts: 202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruising7388
It is late enough in this year that you may be able to have your coach built as a 2018 model although the chassis will most likely be a 2017 or even 2016.
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That's what they're saying. 2018 coach, 2017 chasis. I suppose that means they'll use their latest and greatest components and things they've learned from feedback they've gotten from others. Definitely looking forward to it. We're making plans to move out of our place and rent it out and take the RT on the road for six months straight testing it out.
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06-13-2017, 07:24 PM
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#143
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: WA
Posts: 194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingedRyno
That's what they're saying. 2018 coach, 2017 chasis. I suppose that means they'll use their latest and greatest components and things they've learned from feedback they've gotten from others. Definitely looking forward to it. We're making plans to move out of our place and rent it out and take the RT on the road for six months straight testing it out.
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Do you have a plan for where you'll live when the MH is in the shop for 2-3 months? I was just talking to someone the other day about his busted AC. The AC manufacturer told him he had to have a dealership handle the repair and local dealerships were going to take weeks before they got around to testing and then fixing/replacing it so he's replacing it himself. Repairs like that are tricky enough when you have a garage + skills. I can't imagine repairing it while boon docking or living in an RV park far from home.
__________________
User formerly known as Transit
2017 Trend 23L
2011 13' Scamp
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06-13-2017, 07:44 PM
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#144
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Platinum Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: East
Posts: 2,483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B Eventually
Do you have a plan for where you'll live when the MH is in the shop for 2-3 months?
...
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06-13-2017, 07:48 PM
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#145
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: WA
Posts: 194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBQ
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BBQ, there's been 7 posts to this thread since your last one. Which one are you responding to?
__________________
User formerly known as Transit
2017 Trend 23L
2011 13' Scamp
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06-13-2017, 08:04 PM
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#146
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Platinum Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: East
Posts: 2,483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B Eventually
BBQ, there's been 7 posts to this thread since your last one. Which one are you responding to?
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added quote.
THank you.
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06-14-2017, 11:33 PM
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#147
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: WA
Posts: 202
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Thinking about running a pole along the driver side top (paralleling the awning) and putting a custom solar panel on it that swivels and locks to the side of the van (just above the side windows so it doesn't block the window view). Thinking a custom panel of about 20" by 20 feet would produce roughly 500W of power in addition to the OEM 600W.
Has anybody looked closely at the OEM solar on a RT? I'm assuming the panels are wired in series and lack DC optimizers (so shade on one panel would likely have a real impact on total production). Wondering how hard it would be to add DC optimizers to the panels and wondering if the OEM solar charger can handle nearly doubling the solar input. Anybody messed around with this?
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06-15-2017, 12:15 AM
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#148
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Platinum Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: East
Posts: 2,483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingedRyno
Thinking about running a pole along the driver side top (paralleling the awning) and putting a custom solar panel on it that swivels and locks to the side of the van (just above the side windows so it doesn't block the window view). Thinking a custom panel of about 20" by 20 feet would produce roughly 500W of power in addition to the OEM 600W.
Has anybody looked closely at the OEM solar on a RT? I'm assuming the panels are wired in series and lack DC optimizers (so shade on one panel would likely have a real impact on total production). Wondering how hard it would be to add DC optimizers to the panels and wondering if the OEM solar charger can handle nearly doubling the solar input. Anybody messed around with this?
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LOL good that you ask.
RT are pathetic amateurs when it comes to solar.
One guy's CS with mega Li and a roof full of panels were not getting the power he expected. Repeated dealer and factory intervention did not improve things. So he hired an independent technician to look the thing over. It turns out that the multiple panels of various sizes were not wired in a balanced configuration. The technician added another panel to the mix so that the volt/watts were balanced. He says he can now boondock for up to 5 days vs the 2 days before the rewire.
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06-15-2017, 01:15 AM
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#149
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 5,967
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You most likely will shade your rooftop panels and trade 500 watts for 600 useless watts.
__________________
Davydd
2021 Advanced RV 144 custom Sprinter
2015 Advanced RV Extended body Sprinter
2011 Great West Van Legend Sprinter
2005 Pleasure-way Plateau TS Sprinter
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06-15-2017, 03:35 AM
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#150
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 3,236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingedRyno
Thinking about running a pole along the driver side top (paralleling the awning) and putting a custom solar panel on it that swivels and locks to the side of the van (just above the side windows so it doesn't block the window view). Thinking a custom panel of about 20" by 20 feet would produce roughly 500W of power in addition to the OEM 600W..................
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If I understand you correctly this additional solar panel would be like an awning fold down for travel and fold up to horizontal position of harvesting, like a roof extension. At the length of 20’ there would need to be a few hinges. It should work, but mechanical design could be very challenging and cost of none standard 20” could be prohibitively expensive.
If I have to do my solar again (I could redo mine) I would contemplate using side to side telescoping stacked double panels. For driving position only the upper panels would harvest, for example in my case 3x100W, for campsite harvesting I would “telescope” out to each side ending up with 6x100W. 8020 company have aluminum profiles and other fixtures which could be used to design this type of “a double decker” PV panels system. My PV panles are mounted using 8020 extrusions. In my case I would need to slide out to the side about 24”, very doable, to clear potential side to side shadowing.
Another option is using wind turbine, permanently mounted telescoping mast and turbine lifted up for harvesting and anchored to the ground to eliminate vibration. This would be my option to diversify charging for different weather conditions.
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06-15-2017, 11:57 AM
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#151
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: WA
Posts: 202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davydd
You most likely will shade your rooftop panels and trade 500 watts for 600 useless watts.
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Does Advanced install DC optimizers to take care of the shading loss issues? One per panel should cut down on shading effects I would think.
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06-15-2017, 02:46 PM
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#152
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Platinum Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: East
Posts: 2,483
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.
If you are planning to do all that mod,
I would have bought a Winnebago ERA.
The interior is far better than RT.
The price is good. (the street price is 25%~30% below MSRP)
The best part is, it has an inexpensive low-tech AGM battery/solar system.
ie. you can rip them all out, and throw them away without feeling any pain.
With the money you saved on the initial price, you could afford to hire a Li/solar specialist to design and build a system of your dream. And the total price will still be cheaper than the long suffering RT warp drive.
Just my 2 cents
YMMV
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06-15-2017, 04:05 PM
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#153
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 5,967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingedRyno
Does Advanced install DC optimizers to take care of the shading loss issues? One per panel should cut down on shading effects I would think.
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Yes. My three solar panels are each zoned in half so that partial shade will not effect the whole panels performance. But even if you could do that, and I doubt, but don't know, that Roadtrek does it you would still trade shade from the upright panels that are optimized for the sun.
Each panel in turn on my Advanced RV has its own MPPT controller. I don't know what you mean by DC optimizers.
Roadtrek has maximized the available roof area with 600 watts. They used to get more by eliminating the rooftop air conditioner with a split system but seemingly abandoned that effort. Advanced RV built a 1200 watt assembly for one customer that was built on a structural platform above all the rooftop equipment. That was one of a kind.
__________________
Davydd
2021 Advanced RV 144 custom Sprinter
2015 Advanced RV Extended body Sprinter
2011 Great West Van Legend Sprinter
2005 Pleasure-way Plateau TS Sprinter
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06-15-2017, 09:18 PM
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#154
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: WA
Posts: 194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davydd
They used to get more by eliminating the rooftop air conditioner with a split system but seemingly abandoned that effort.
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That's disappointing. If ARV can't improve on the traditional deafening overhead AC yet, it's probably not possible or at least the tradeoffs don't make sense for most customers.
__________________
User formerly known as Transit
2017 Trend 23L
2011 13' Scamp
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06-15-2017, 09:31 PM
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#155
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 3,236
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I have seen one of these in action, very quiet but 230V, I hope Truma will decide to bring it to NA. Onan 2500 LPG should have enough oomph to start. https://www.truma.com/int/en/air-con...ng-systems.php
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06-15-2017, 09:31 PM
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#156
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: CA
Posts: 1,668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingedRyno
That's what they're saying. 2018 coach, 2017 chasis. I suppose that means they'll use their latest and greatest components and things they've learned from feedback they've gotten from others. Definitely looking forward to it. We're making plans to move out of our place and rent it out and take the RT on the road for six months straight testing it out.
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What may be the latest but not so greatest is the battery charging capacity which was originally designed for a 200 AH battery which is no longer offered. So, for battery capacities ranging from 400 AH to 1600 AH, you are going to get the same charge capacity from both the Nations alternator and the shore side battery charger. Consequently. the alternator will be delivering pedal to the metal for an extended period compared to the typically supplied 400 AH setup and with a discharged 1600 AH warp core, the shore side charger is going to run full tilt for quite a while to provide a full recharge.
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06-16-2017, 12:52 PM
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#157
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: WA
Posts: 202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruising7388
What may be the latest but not so greatest is the battery charging capacity which was originally designed for a 200 AH battery which is no longer offered. So, for battery capacities ranging from 400 AH to 1600 AH, you are going to get the same charge capacity from both the Nations alternator and the shore side battery charger. Consequently. the alternator will be delivering pedal to the metal for an extended period compared to the typically supplied 400 AH setup and with a discharged 1600 AH warp core, the shore side charger is going to run full tilt for quite a while to provide a full recharge.
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The rule of thumb we were told is 45-60 mins per 200AH battery while driving to charge them from 20% to 100%. So 8 hours of driving to fill em up is what we're expecting.
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06-16-2017, 12:54 PM
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#158
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: WA
Posts: 202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davydd
Yes. My three solar panels are each zoned in half so that partial shade will not effect the whole panels performance. But even if you could do that, and I doubt, but don't know, that Roadtrek does it you would still trade shade from the upright panels that are optimized for the sun.
Each panel in turn on my Advanced RV has its own MPPT controller. I don't know what you mean by DC optimizers.
Roadtrek has maximized the available roof area with 600 watts. They used to get more by eliminating the rooftop air conditioner with a split system but seemingly abandoned that effort. Advanced RV built a 1200 watt assembly for one customer that was built on a structural platform above all the rooftop equipment. That was one of a kind.
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I think having a charge controller per panel as you have accomplishes the same thing as having DC optimizers.
My understanding is that RT offers the undermount A/C for warp core models so that the A/C doesn't shade the panels up top and they can fit 600W up there.
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06-16-2017, 04:53 PM
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#159
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 8,828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingedRyno
The rule of thumb we were told is 45-60 mins per 200AH battery while driving to charge them from 20% to 100%. So 8 hours of driving to fill em up is what we're expecting.
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Do you have to remember to turn on all 8 modules before driving if you want them to charge or is that automatically controlled? If not automatic, if it is only a 2 hour drive how many modules would you turn on? Do you have to keep track of which modules were used last? Will you have some sort of usage rotation in place so that the banks get somewhat equal use?
Then I guess when you stop driving you have to remember to turn some modules off.
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06-16-2017, 05:29 PM
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#160
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Platinum Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: East
Posts: 2,483
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.
Whoever came up with this "Warp Drive" marketing moniker should get a medal.
The more questions you ask, the more interesting it gets.
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