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Old 05-25-2017, 02:17 PM   #1
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Default 02 Roadtrek 200 popular AC rattles & squeaks (Physically, not electro-mechanically)

I posted this before under a different title and didn't get any replies. Thought I'd try with a more descriptive title. My apologies for the double post, but I couldn't figure out how to edit the title on the original post.

I've got a horrendous rattle and most annoying squeak coming from my Danby AC unit. It is physical, and not mechanical. Meaning, it is just with the unit powered off, driving down the road.

I have isolated it to the left side where it meets the wood of the left (passenger side) storage compartment. If I drive a couple of PVC or wooden "door and window" shims in between the AC unit and the wood, it cures 85% of the rattle & squeak.

This solution has a few issues. 1. Looks horrible. 2. After 3 miles on a poorly maintained roadway, the shims fall out. 3. Not very "elegant".

Further, there is a "tray" of some sort underneath it. I suspect a condensation/drip tray with an outlet somewhere. This "tray" has a lot of what looks like disintegrated "rock wool" insulation in it. I can get a few pieces out by hand, by the front of the tray. How much more is in there? Where did it come from? How do I replace it?

In addition to the questions above I ask:

1. Anyone else have this issue (squeak/rattle) and what did they do about it.

2. Any suggestions as to what to try?

3. How do I access/remove the AC unit to attempt my OWN modifications/repairs?.

Thanks.
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Old 05-25-2017, 05:02 PM   #2
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.

RVs rattle. That's just the nature of the beast.

RVs are not designed to go offroad or on badly maintained roads.
The potholes and ruts will tear the interior apart.

Having said the above...

if the fridge [edit] I meant AC, is falling apart,
maybe you should take it out and re-seat it.


.
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Old 05-25-2017, 05:46 PM   #3
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Not talking about potholes or ruts. Nor off-road. Just secondary roads that might be crowned, cracked the usual pavement defects etc. Nothing major. We travel on secondary roads a lot.

It's the AC not fridge. The fridge would be a breeze to remove compared to the AC.
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Old 05-26-2017, 05:26 PM   #4
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Default ac remove

On my 2002 popular 200 the ac is accessed from the outside on the roof there are several screws that seal a access cover to reach the ac unit. I would look at that cover to see if yours comes out the same way
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Old 05-26-2017, 10:21 PM   #5
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Also, if there is a cover that comes off, and you remove it, you cannot re-use the screws that come out. They are not screws but I believe they are called Well Nuts. If you should remove, take one to a Fastnel Store for exact match-up; sometimes you will find them at Ace or Home Depot. Ron
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Old 05-27-2017, 07:32 PM   #6
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Thanks for the tip Ron. I never even hear of a "well nut" until you mentioned them. Interesting.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Well_nut
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Old 05-29-2017, 03:39 PM   #7
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I would suggest avoiding to remove the AC. It's a tough job with lots of Silicone!

I can't really tell you how to fix it but I can certainly share pictures to give you an idea of the work involved. I replaced my AC did this weekend on my 1998 Versatile 200:

After the old AC was removed:


The new AC in place:

We added 1" and 3/4" aluminum angle iron to hold it in place. Before, there was just two screws on the side that go through the cabinet at an angle into the corners of the old AC. I think we did a better job!

From the inside:


(Limit of 4 pictures. Standby for the rest.)
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Old 05-29-2017, 03:42 PM   #8
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Where the drip tray is supposed to be:


What my drip tray looks like:

You can see that it's broken and patched up with weird material. You can also see that there's a tube that empties it out to the back.

I also found some foam inside the drip tray and my hypothesis is that it's there to prevent water from splashing around when you're driving. I suggest to replace it with any kind of foam made for a humidified that won't develop mold.
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Old 01-29-2020, 02:04 AM   #9
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Well, Not to resurrect an old post but....

I DID do all the well nuts and gaskets on the exterior cover about 15 months ago. I've never really given it the opportunity (parking nose down) to see if it leaks. So I don't know how successful I was.

That said, the last KNOWN working date for the DANBY coach AC was Summer of 2018. I've started it up a few times periodically (in the driveway) and it "sort of" cooled, but it was never a blizzard maker.

We're traveling in S FL now and I went to use it today. It starts and blows fine, the I can hear the compressor kick in and load down the genny, but it really doesn't blow very cool. I'm not even sure it was blowing cooler than ambient outdoor temp. I don't have a IR temp gun with me, and when I get back home it will be 25 deg f. So no testing until late spring or summer.

I see the replacement proc above and I am dreading it, but I think this is one issue I AM going to have to deal with.

Do HVAC guys ever repair these "window shaker" type AC units any more? At today's prices they're pretty much disposable. I am thinking that given the amount of labor involved in replacing it (assuming I could even find a correctly sized unit) I may be better off having an AC guy look at it. Maybe in just needs an evacuation and recharge.

I am very well versed in automotive AC systems, but I've never recharged an "appliance". Refrigerator, AC, dehumidifier etc.

As an alternative, the chassis AC works great and cools the cab like a meat locker. Some of it actually get s back to the coach if you run it long enough.

Suggestions ?

Thanks.

Paul.../NH
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Old 01-29-2020, 12:08 PM   #10
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If it's low on charge, it has a leak. If it leaked slowly over a long time, it's a tiny leak and you may not find it. If you can evac and charge it will work but for how long before it leaks down again. Like a car you have to charge every summer. Food for thought. Good luck.
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Old 01-29-2020, 12:19 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PJW73NH View Post
Well, Not to resurrect an old post but....

I DID do all the well nuts and gaskets on the exterior cover about 15 months ago. I've never really given it the opportunity (parking nose down) to see if it leaks. So I don't know how successful I was.

That said, the last KNOWN working date for the DANBY coach AC was Summer of 2018. I've started it up a few times periodically (in the driveway) and it "sort of" cooled, but it was never a blizzard maker.

We're traveling in S FL now and I went to use it today. It starts and blows fine, the I can hear the compressor kick in and load down the genny, but it really doesn't blow very cool. I'm not even sure it was blowing cooler than ambient outdoor temp. I don't have a IR temp gun with me, and when I get back home it will be 25 deg f. So no testing until late spring or summer.

I see the replacement proc above and I am dreading it, but I think this is one issue I AM going to have to deal with.

Do HVAC guys ever repair these "window shaker" type AC units any more? At today's prices they're pretty much disposable. I am thinking that given the amount of labor involved in replacing it (assuming I could even find a correctly sized unit) I may be better off having an AC guy look at it. Maybe in just needs an evacuation and recharge.

I am very well versed in automotive AC systems, but I've never recharged an "appliance". Refrigerator, AC, dehumidifier etc.

As an alternative, the chassis AC works great and cools the cab like a meat locker. Some of it actually get s back to the coach if you run it long enough.

Suggestions ?

Thanks.

Paul.../NH
Generally there are no provisions to tap into the sealed system on shakers. I believe that you would also have to remove the unit to work on it. On my '00 200 is on it's second replacement, both done before my purchase about six years ago, and both done by a dealer. The last one, in about 2012, was done at a dealer near North Port, north of Port Charlotte. It appears that they did a good job.

It has a Frigidaire unit in it that has to this point performed well. I believe it is a 10kBTU unit which is apparently no longer available. Try to get at least an 8k unit.

If it were me I would try and tough it out and do it at my house or at least have a dealer near my home location do it in case of any issues. At least it isn't July.

Have fun in SoFlo. Where are you staying?
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Old 02-02-2020, 08:01 PM   #12
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We’ve pretty much been Driving most of the day and into the night and then “Crackerdocking”.


Stevej, skunberg and Mat Mobile. Thanks for the info.

Mat, those pics are great. As is your installation. It looks beautiful. Is it really just held in with two screws from the sides of the cabinet and silicone?

I see the two black pieces of aluminum you have on the sides, but I don’t quite see how they mount to the floor. Can you describe that for me please?

And most importantly, when I look for an air conditioner do you know what the dimensions of the original are? Or what size I can use to fit in there?

Thanks so much for the help and advice.
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Old 02-02-2020, 09:05 PM   #13
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I had same issue with my 200 and finally replace the old unit with a 10,000 BTU Fridgidaire unit from Home Depot. It was a bit of a pain cutting out old sealer and the replacement was a little taller than the old unit so had to modify the fiberglass cover somewhat. Sorry unit under wraps right now so no pictures. Other than the weight of the unit and trying to lift it up into place I did it by myself, another thing was opening up the cabinet pass through to accomodate the huge plug that comes with the new A/C units.
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