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04-14-2017, 02:22 PM
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#1
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: NH
Posts: 145
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03 Roadtrek 200P (Chevy)side door handle hard to open
2003 Roadtrek 200P. Side door handle/door VERY difficult to open.
Greetings, upon VIN lookup The chassis is called a 2002 Chevy Express Ext "cutaway" . It's an extended 3500 with one (single) side door that opens like a regular door. No slider.
I have to actuate the exterior handle and pull pretty hard on the door to get it to open. With most doors, you pull/operate the handle, and they usually "pop" right open. With this one, you have to pull the handle all the way out and then tug on it a bit. To an untrained person, they would think it is locked. (I did the first time).
Any thoughts on what needs replacing or adjusting?
Anyone else have a similar problem?
Thanks.
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04-14-2017, 06:24 PM
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#2
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: PHX, AZ
Posts: 2,657
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so exact same door mechanism as on a billion other chevy express vans- I'd look at some youtube clips- for linkage fixin' tips
often the guys putting speakers in doors will have great tricks to pull panels and get in there
likely lube
GM used plastic clips on door linkages - if parked facing the sun, like AZ, the plastic clips will break- all the clips in my 2001 GMC pick up have been swapped over time with metal carb linkage clips from the "Help!" section of autozone
mike
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04-14-2017, 06:41 PM
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#3
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Platinum Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 166
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First, check the hinges. They may need a shot of spray lubricant.
Second, remove the inner door panels and check the linkage for dried grease, un-hooked return spring and, as mentioned above, the guide clips.
__________________
Joe
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04-15-2017, 12:46 AM
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#4
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Garland, Texas
Posts: 238
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tighten linkage. lube.
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04-17-2017, 02:37 AM
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#5
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: America's Seaplane City, FL
Posts: 997
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I don;t think that this door used Chevy parts as it did not come from the gm factory with it.
Our side door,2000 200 versatile, requires a slight push on the door to open. More so in the cooler weather, less in the heat. I opened up the door to adjust the outside handle position to remedy this issue but it eventually slipped out again. It shifts slightly forward enough to cause this.
I chose to leave as is as I like the fact that it seems "locked" without having to bother locking it. And I'm lazy(er um efficient with my bodily exertions).
Traveling right now with newer item from the list in my sig, staying at Hickory Creek Army Core park near Fayetteville, AR for a few days.
__________________
Tick tock, baby(Ironbuttal)
2000 Roadtrek Chevy 200 Versatile(sold)
'98 Safari Trek 2480
Just for fun:'15 Kawasaki Versys650LT
Perfection is a fantasy, though improvement is possible(Wifey).
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04-17-2017, 07:02 AM
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#6
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: CA
Posts: 1,668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PJW73NH
2003 Roadtrek 200P. Side door handle/door VERY difficult to open.
Greetings, upon VIN lookup The chassis is called a 2002 Chevy Express Ext "cutaway" . It's an extended 3500 with one (single) side door that opens like a regular door. No slider.
I have to actuate the exterior handle and pull pretty hard on the door to get it to open. With most doors, you pull/operate the handle, and they usually "pop" right open. With this one, you have to pull the handle all the way out and then tug on it a bit. To an untrained person, they would think it is locked. (I did the first time).
Any thoughts on what needs replacing or adjusting?
Anyone else have a similar problem?
Thanks.
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On our 210 Popular, that side door and the rear doors are Chevy. If your doors are not fiberglass I think they also are Chevy.
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04-17-2017, 12:59 PM
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#7
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Platinum Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: East
Posts: 2,483
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.
It has to be an original factory door.
Because it is not easy (and expensive) to make an automobile door frame and its associated latches (read safety).
No RV upfitter would go to the expense to make a custom door for its RVs.
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04-17-2017, 01:05 PM
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#8
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: America's Seaplane City, FL
Posts: 997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBQ
.
It has to be an original factory door.
Because it is not easy (and expensive) to make an automobile door frame and its associated latches (read safety).
No RV upfitter would go to the expense to make a custom door for its RVs.
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Perhaps you should actually look at a door on the 200 series. They are not a Chevy part, they are fiberglass. So yes, someone went the the bother and expense to fit a "custom" door.
Not meant to be conflicting but simply after accuracy.
__________________
Tick tock, baby(Ironbuttal)
2000 Roadtrek Chevy 200 Versatile(sold)
'98 Safari Trek 2480
Just for fun:'15 Kawasaki Versys650LT
Perfection is a fantasy, though improvement is possible(Wifey).
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04-17-2017, 10:46 PM
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#9
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 677
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Chevy express vans shipped factory with a slider or double doors for the side entry. If there is just a single door then it has been modified from factory.
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04-17-2017, 11:33 PM
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#10
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: CA
Posts: 1,668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruceper
Chevy express vans shipped factory with a slider or double doors for the side entry. If there is just a single door then it has been modified from factory.
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Roadtrek gets regular vans from Chevy for their 190 and 210. They add 18 inches to the box frame to support the additional 210 length. For both models they only use the forward side door and use both rear doors.
On the 210 considering all the fiberglass work on the coach I wonder why they don't just start the build from a cutaway chassis.
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04-18-2017, 04:14 AM
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#11
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Virginia
Posts: 764
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I was told by a RT Tech that on the 210 Models they just fiberglassed right over the second door. They had a 210 that hat been hit in the side and that was when he actually seen it.
__________________
Ron J. Moore
'15 RT210P
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04-18-2017, 05:09 AM
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#12
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: CA
Posts: 1,668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron J. Moore
I was told by a RT Tech that on the 210 Models they just fiberglassed right over the second door. They had a 210 that hat been hit in the side and that was when he actually seen it.
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Yep. You learn something new every day. Did some checking. The tech is right. The other side door is buried behind the fiberglass shell.
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04-18-2017, 03:44 PM
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#13
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: NH
Posts: 145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveJ
I don;t think that this door used Chevy parts as it did not come from the gm factory with it.
Our side door,2000 200 versatile, requires a slight push on the door to open. More so in the cooler weather, less in the heat. I opened up the door to adjust the outside handle position to remedy this issue but it eventually slipped out again. It shifts slightly forward enough to cause this.
I chose to leave as is as I like the fact that it seems "locked" without having to bother locking it. And I'm lazy(er um efficient with my bodily exertions)....
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Yes, this is exactly my issue. But in my case, it appears the catch (not latch) is adjusted too far *IN* towards the cabin, thus when latched, there is excessive tension on the catch and latch. As Steve said, if I push on the door panel by the latch area, then actuate the handle, it requires very little effort. I do like the fact that it "appears" locked to the untrained, but I am concerned that with use (and according to Murphy) it will give up at the worst possible moment.
That said, does anyone know how to adjust the catch? I've attached a couple of pics, and there is a very short vid here: https://tinyurl.com/Door-Catch1
It looks like the catch may have been adjusted previously as it is a bit off center from the washer. Maybe to fix wind noise, or a water leak or the like. Being a "hex" like it is, it looks like I might be able to just loosen it with a wrench and re-position it. I am hesitant to do that because I can't get to the back of it to see what is on the other side. I don't want to get in a position where I can't re-tighten it or worse, have whatever is on the back of it fall off and down into the body cavity.
Does anyone know how to get to the back of the door stile? Do those cloth buttons just pop off and reveal some kind of fasteners?
Yes the door is fiberglass, not metal, and appears to have been Roadtrek issued, not GM issued.
Thanks.
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05-24-2017, 11:37 PM
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#14
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: NH
Posts: 145
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Update: No dice. I removed the inner cloth covered panel to try and reveal the back of the catch, and it appears to be fiberglassed over. There is limited room to see and work, but I can not see past the fiberglass. Glad I didn't remove it all the way.
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10-11-2017, 01:45 PM
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#15
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: NH
Posts: 145
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Just a quick update and clarification:
My situation hasn't changed. I adjusted the "catch" on the pillar and it made a VERY slight improvement. BUT it also makes the door look like it's not flush with the rest of the body. It's not ajar, but looks slightly like it is.
As SteveJ has mentioned, I have the exact same issue as he describes. Unless you push inward on the door while opening the latch, the door appears to be locked to the untrained unless you pull on the handle very hard.
Further, SteveJ is also correct on the composition of the door. When working on inside of the door, I can see the underside of (what appears to be) the outside fiberglass. With this visual confirmation, I will presume that unless RT fiber-glassed over the outside of the metal Chevy door AND THE INSIDE, that the door is otherwise ALL fiberglass and not metal as some have mentioned. The REARWARD side door does appear to have been removed and replace with the coach fiberglass shell.
Apparently, my particular model a 2003 Chevy 200 P was not very (no pun intended) popular. I have seen very few of them. 2 in about 9 months. Mine has only the one (forward) side door, and no doors on the rear.
Thanks again for all the input.
P.../NH
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