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Old 09-24-2023, 04:30 PM   #21
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Oh, and as I have reported elsewhere, I have reason to believe that time-based oil changes are nonsense.
Are you saying that changing the oil regularly in a vehicle that isn't driven much is not necessary? Is there any time-limit or is the oil good indefinitely?
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Old 09-24-2023, 05:12 PM   #22
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Are you saying that changing the oil regularly in a vehicle that isn't driven much is not necessary? Is there any time-limit or is the oil good indefinitely?

I will let Avanti speak for himself to your query, but will add some clarity as I see it to the issue.


I have torn down quite a few used engines over the the past decades so what I found is based on what the insides looked like for wear and tear or other issues.


I would totally agree with Avanti on the oil itself being just fine and it will last a long time, even years, in an engine. I have not seen a sludged up engine, on the oiled parts anyway, in many years and most are quite clean if good oil is used.


What I have found for years, and it has not really changed much on the Minnesota engines I have torn down is what I would water/acid issues, particularly in the main, rod, and cam bearing, which are babbit, trimetal, or aluminum for the most part these days. Trimetal in many high peforance or high rpm engines, aluminum now very dominant in daily driving vehicles because it lasts and on time and is cheap.


What I find in low mile engines is that they probably aren't driven enough to evaporate out all the water, and the generally low per year miles entails short trips, which commonly put more acid contamination into the oil because of more cold starts per mile and lack of long highway drives at full temperature.


What I see is erosion particularly in the lower (cap side of the main bearings and cam bearings, and on the rod bearings more generally around the in the lower side which is different side to side on V engines and compared to verticals or boxers.


Mostly not enough for major concern but does make for shorter engine life by some amount due to dropping oil pressure or possible bearing tear out of the surface if it gets too bad, IMO.


Sometimes there is also rust in the low spots of cast iron areas and sometimes in rockers and hydraulic lifters if they use them.


In general we are talking life changes that only show up later in the lifespan of the engine, Maybe the difference between needing a rebuild at 150K instead of 200K and most low yearly vehicles are dead from other reasons because of age by then, with the exception of collector stuff and exotics.


If there is any issue a person is worried about because of low miles per year, just send in some oil samples for analysis to see what it looks like and pay attention to acid and water content and related additive depletion because of it. Keep stretching it out on changes until the analysis starts to say it getting a bit long and back off a bit. I have done this several times, particularly with summer driven hotrod type vehicles and if they vehicle is stored in a climate controlled where it won't breath in moisture with temp changes and driven longer distances when driven, I could see going several years without changing oil without issue.
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Old 09-24-2023, 05:27 PM   #23
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Are you saying that changing the oil regularly in a vehicle that isn't driven much is not necessary? Is there any time-limit or is the oil good indefinitely?
I am making the specific claim that changing oil "once a year" (or any other fixed time interval--within reason) is unnecessary.

The evidence I alluded to can be found here:

https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...nge-13429.html

I am NOT saying that frequent short running of an engine is OK. It is not. For the reasons that Booster cited, such a pattern must be treated as "severe service" and is cause for accelerated OCIs. But the frequent advice to change your oil at a fixed time interval regardless of whether it has been run or not in that interval is to my knowledge without empirical or analytical support.

For this reason, people who "exercise" their engines for short periods during winter storage are almost certainly doing much more harm than good. If you insist on such "exercise", you MUST bring the vehicle up to full operating temperature via highway driving. But the best thing is to just let it sleep through the storage period. There is no reason to "get the fluids circulating" if the engine is not being operated. Every time you start the engine, you are pumping fresh moisture into the engine and exhaust. If the engine is not then raised to full operating temperature, this moisture will condense inside the engine as liquid water, which is not good at all.
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Old 09-24-2023, 09:48 PM   #24
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What Avanti said is spot on. Running the engine periodically over the storage period is causing much more harm than good.


If you are worried about the first start in the spring being deprived of oil because of all the time, there is some truth to it, but not severe.


If you have an expensive engine for whatever reason, investing in a preoiler system for it. I have used them in the past and the engines showed remarkedly low wear at teardown and one was a Minnesota daily commuter 4 cylinder Escort with over 200K on in 18.5 years. All the bearings and the cylinder bores checked to within new engine dimension tolerances. I was doing a test for the manufacturer of the preoiler system, which was an electric pump style.
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Old 09-26-2023, 10:37 AM   #25
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On the subject of oil changes: is there any benefit to filling the new oil filter with oil before putting it on. I have never done this in the past, but I have come across some posts recommending it.
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Old 09-26-2023, 01:12 PM   #26
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On the subject of oil changes: is there any benefit to filling the new oil filter with oil before putting it on. I have never done this in the past, but I have come across some posts recommending it.
I always fill mine before installing. Easy to do. Does no harm. Reduces time for oil pressure to build up at engine start. Benefit may be infinitesimal, but still there is no reason not to do it.
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Old 09-27-2023, 12:07 AM   #27
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Benefit may be infinitesimal, but still there is no reason not to do it.
Well, I think I would agree that if there is some benefit, even a small benefit, then it might be better to do it. But, I probably wouldn't take the trouble to do it for an infinitesimal benefit!
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Old 09-27-2023, 11:40 PM   #28
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Depends if your generator is one of the new “i” inverter generators with fuel injection and no generator brushes or the old design with carburetor and brushes.

The monthly run cycle was to remove the corrosion from the slip rings and keep carburetor fuel passages clear. The new generators have neither of those problems.
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Old 09-28-2023, 12:26 AM   #29
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Depends if your generator is one of the new “i” inverter generators with fuel injection and no generator brushes or the old design with carburetor and brushes.

The monthly run cycle was to remove the corrosion from the slip rings and keep carburetor fuel passages clear. The new generators have neither of those problems.
...and yet, the manual for the the inverter units STILL specifies the same old "exercise" regimen:

Quote:
Section 7.8:
Exercise the generator set at least 2 hours each month if use is infrequent.
https://www.cummins.com/sites/defaul...985_issue3.pdf

As I said, these recommendations are data-free.
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