How often do I need to run generator

[Zwillingsmama]

We finally bought our first van (06 RT Adventurous) while looking at previous vans a sales person told us we had to run the generator frequently so it doesn’t seize up. Now my question is how often? How long? Under load? What do you do?

[jjrbus]

I have had a motorized RV for 20+ years, last year I bought a Roadtrek RV with a good running Onan generator. I removed it and sold it before it could cost me money! Been using Honda for 20 years!

The main problem with any carbureted engine is the ethanol in the gas, the gasoline evaporates and the ethanol gums up the carburetor. This applies to lawn mowers, weed wackers, chain saws etc. Also the various electrical components, again any generator not just Ohno can corrode. The Onans can be a money pit if not cared for! There is a lady on the generator forum that has spent $1000 on an Onan that was not used for 3 years and it still is not right.


If I were forced to live with a Onan I would run it at least 30 minutes twice a month with a load, AC, electric heater, something that loads the generator not just a light bulb or radio. If you want to store the RV for months, there are instructions online on how to prep the generator.

My opinion and worth what you are paying for it.

[booster]

The Adventurous should have a propane generator so really the need for running is to keep the slip rings clean in the generator section of the unit.


I think the Onan recommendation should easily cover it but I don't recall exactly how many hours a month it was that year.

[Zwillingsmama]

Yes it is a propane generator

[jjrbus]

Propane will save you a lot of grief. I would still run 1/2 hour under load twice a month to keep the internals of the generator clean. I exercise my RV at least once a month. Keeps everything moving, lubricated.

[Urlauber]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

Propane will save you a lot of grief. I would still run 1/2 hour under load twice a month to keep the internals of the generator clean. I exercise my RV at least once a month. Keeps everything moving, lubricated.

I try to run mine once a month for an hour, either with the A/C or a 1500W heater as loads.
Usually it ends up more like every other month.

[Deano]

This only applies to a gasoline genny, I believe it may depend on the climate where it spends most of it's time. I live in a very dry area and ran the genny only when being used, which was not often. Never had an issue, except for the fuel pump failing. I doubt that had anything to do with not exercising the genny.
However, I did drain the carburetor in the fall .

[RT-NY]

The following is from the operator's' manual for the Onan Microlite 2800 KV (I do not know if this also applies to propane):

"To prevent harmful moisture accumulation and fuel deposits, run the genset at 50 percent capacity (1,400 watts) for two hours every four weeks. A long exercise period is preferable to several short periods."

This is what I do and it seems to work just fine. I do notice, however, that the more I run it the better it runs.

[ilmor]

onan says two hours per month under load if you’re not using it

[Roadtrek Adventuous RS1]

Originally Posted by ilmor

onan says two hours per month under load if you’re not using it

It's in the owners manual and I've talked personally with the people at the Cummins Onan service center.

Two hours per month, on gas or propane....

Also, get your generator serviced once a year unless you're confident of doing it yourself.... it's cheap insurance...

What's $350 per year when you have a $100,000 or more motorhome???

[ilmor]

Originally Posted by Roadtrek Adventuous RS1

It's in the owners manual and I've talked personally with the people at the Cummins Onan service center.

Two hours per month, on gas or propane....

Also, get your generator serviced once a year unless you're confident of doing it yourself.... it's cheap insurance...

What's $350 per year when you have a $100,000 or more motorhome???

To further elaborate, the only "annual service" needed (on my Onan 2800i) would be an oil change which is required every 150 hours or 1 year whichever first. For that you need 1 quart of oil for $5, per year.

For the remainder of the maintenance, one should follow the maintenance schedule in the manual -

[avanti]

Speaking only for myself, I think the Onan published maintenance regimen is nonsense. When the exact same procedure is repeated nearly verbatim for decades -- across models, fuel types, operating conditions, and improvements in oil formulations -- I get a little skeptical.

Yes, you can say that they designed it and so are the best source of information. You can also say that it is a CYA statement written decades ago to make up for a crude and poorly-designed gasoline setup by a company that doesn't care about cost and inconvenience to their owners and has absolutely no motivation to do the work necessary to develop and publish realistic, fact-based guidelines.

My personal experience over two propane units is that they need to be run for awhile a couple of times a year to keep the commutator surfaces rust-free. That is what I did, and both units held up just fine. Gasoline units are no doubt another story--I have no data there.

Oh, and as I have reported elsewhere, I have reason to believe that time-based oil changes are nonsense.

Of course, everybody should do what they think best.

[booster]

Originally Posted by avanti

Speaking only for myself, I think the Onan published maintenance regimen is nonsense. When the exact same procedure is repeated nearly verbatim for decades -- across models, fuel types, operating conditions, and improvements in oil formulations -- I get a little skeptical.

Yes, you can say that they designed it and so are the best source of information. You can also say that it is a CYA statement written decades ago to make up for a crude and poorly-designed gasoline setup by a company that doesn't care about cost and inconvenience to their owners and has absolutely no motivation to do the work necessary to develop and publish realistic, fact-based guidelines.

My personal experience over two propane units is that they need to be run for awhile a couple of times a year to keep the commutator surfaces rust-free. That is what I did, and both units held up just fine. Gasoline units are no doubt another story--I have no data there.

Oh, and as I have reported elsewhere, I have reason to believe that time-based oil changes are nonsense.

Of course, everybody should do what they think best.

Definitely not bad for propane, and agree gas is the problem child.


I would add the caveat that where you live can make a big difference in commuator/slip ring corrosion. If you are in the dry and warm air in Arizona, the will nearly never corrode, but live in the Pacific NW or in salty air by the ocean and it is very likely much more of a an issue. Drive it on sloppy salty roads with an underbody generator is probably also high corrosion.

[kml123@gmail.com]

Will gas generators fueled by the gas tank on the coach benefit much by running premium fuel? How about those additives that you add to gas tanks that clean your system would those help?

[ilmor]

Originally Posted by kml123@gmail.com

Will gas generators fueled by the gas tank on the coach benefit much by running premium fuel? How about those additives that you add to gas tanks that clean your system would those help?

I would say that as long as your using good and correct gasoline in your van then that gas is good for the generator. What's important is the "detergents" and quality of gas, not the octane.

[booster]

Originally Posted by kml123@gmail.com

Will gas generators fueled by the gas tank on the coach benefit much by running premium fuel? How about those additives that you add to gas tanks that clean your system would those help?

IMO, many will disagree as always with this kind of question.


Premium no benefit


Top Tier small if any for plugging of carb issue, will help keep valves clean


Ethanol free will be the biggest improvement if you can get it as it will change the plugging up while sitting timeframe from week to months, from what we saw when we had our Onan.


Additives can help. Many, including us found Seafoam to work very well.

[ilmor]

Originally Posted by booster

IMO, many will disagree as always with this kind of question.


Premium no benefit


Top Tier small if any for plugging of carb issue, will help keep valves clean


Ethanol free will be the biggest improvement if you can get it as it will change the plugging up while sitting timeframe from week to months, from what we saw when we had our Onan.


Additives can help. Many, including us found Seafoam to work very well.

Agreed!

[ilmor]

Originally Posted by avanti

Speaking only for myself, I think the Onan published maintenance regimen is nonsense. When the exact same procedure is repeated nearly verbatim for decades -- across models, fuel types, operating conditions, and improvements in oil formulations -- I get a little skeptical.

Yes, you can say that they designed it and so are the best source of information. You can also say that it is a CYA statement written decades ago to make up for a crude and poorly-designed gasoline setup by a company that doesn't care about cost and inconvenience to their owners and has absolutely no motivation to do the work necessary to develop and publish realistic, fact-based guidelines.

My personal experience over two propane units is that they need to be run for awhile a couple of times a year to keep the commutator surfaces rust-free. That is what I did, and both units held up just fine. Gasoline units are no doubt another story--I have no data there.

Oh, and as I have reported elsewhere, I have reason to believe that time-based oil changes are nonsense.

Of course, everybody should do what they think best.

Agreed and I think I'll stick with the specified maintenance schedule

[RT-NY]

Originally Posted by avanti

Oh, and as I have reported elsewhere, I have reason to believe that time-based oil changes are nonsense.

Are you saying that changing the oil regularly in a vehicle that isn't driven much is not necessary? Is there any time-limit or is the oil good indefinitely?

[booster]

Originally Posted by RT-NY

Are you saying that changing the oil regularly in a vehicle that isn't driven much is not necessary? Is there any time-limit or is the oil good indefinitely?

I will let Avanti speak for himself to your query, but will add some clarity as I see it to the issue.


I have torn down quite a few used engines over the the past decades so what I found is based on what the insides looked like for wear and tear or other issues.


I would totally agree with Avanti on the oil itself being just fine and it will last a long time, even years, in an engine. I have not seen a sludged up engine, on the oiled parts anyway, in many years and most are quite clean if good oil is used.


What I have found for years, and it has not really changed much on the Minnesota engines I have torn down is what I would water/acid issues, particularly in the main, rod, and cam bearing, which are babbit, trimetal, or aluminum for the most part these days. Trimetal in many high peforance or high rpm engines, aluminum now very dominant in daily driving vehicles because it lasts and on time and is cheap.


What I find in low mile engines is that they probably aren't driven enough to evaporate out all the water, and the generally low per year miles entails short trips, which commonly put more acid contamination into the oil because of more cold starts per mile and lack of long highway drives at full temperature.


What I see is erosion particularly in the lower (cap side of the main bearings and cam bearings, and on the rod bearings more generally around the in the lower side which is different side to side on V engines and compared to verticals or boxers.


Mostly not enough for major concern but does make for shorter engine life by some amount due to dropping oil pressure or possible bearing tear out of the surface if it gets too bad, IMO.


Sometimes there is also rust in the low spots of cast iron areas and sometimes in rockers and hydraulic lifters if they use them.


In general we are talking life changes that only show up later in the lifespan of the engine, Maybe the difference between needing a rebuild at 150K instead of 200K and most low yearly vehicles are dead from other reasons because of age by then, with the exception of collector stuff and exotics.


If there is any issue a person is worried about because of low miles per year, just send in some oil samples for analysis to see what it looks like and pay attention to acid and water content and related additive depletion because of it. Keep stretching it out on changes until the analysis starts to say it getting a bit long and back off a bit. I have done this several times, particularly with summer driven hotrod type vehicles and if they vehicle is stored in a climate controlled where it won't breath in moisture with temp changes and driven longer distances when driven, I could see going several years without changing oil without issue.