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Old 08-29-2016, 03:17 PM   #1
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Default 190 Popular Battery Advice

We just got a 2004 Roadtrek 190 Popular. The previous owners just replaced the coach battery. I would like to add at least one more. I intend to go solar at some point. My question is what do I need to know to make sure what I get will work with the one they replaced?
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Old 08-29-2016, 03:40 PM   #2
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You probably have one gp27 behind the right side rear wheel. The second battery option for the 190s put another one of the same in the storage compartment in front of the wheel.

If you intend on using the existing battery, and if it is a good battery, you would need to match it as close as possible. Same make, model, capacity, etc, and even same manufacturing date if you get lucky enough to find one, although that is unlikely.

If it is not a true deep cycle battery (most "marine" batteries aren't), you might well be ahead to buy two good batteries and sell off the the one you have.
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Old 08-29-2016, 04:08 PM   #3
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Hi ManWonder,

I have an 05/04 190P, basically the same rv.

About 4 months ago I finally added the second optional battery, with the purchase of 2 New Walmart group 27 batteries. There is not room for any other battery options, period. Well, unless you basically start over concerning where they are placed, etc.

I did not use a battery tray for the second battery, no good reason to do that. The second battery is Less of hassle to check the water, etc. than the original battery location!

I simply ran the cable from the original battery to the second battery, and installed a quick disconnect Battery Tender for the batteries.

If you decide to this, pleas let me know if you like. You'll need a phone, flashlight, and I'll explain exactly what I did, pieces parts, etc.

Sorry, I can't be of assistance concerning the solar. So far, I'm going with running the van's alternator for a little while vs solar.

Bud
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Old 09-13-2016, 05:02 AM   #4
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Question about the second battery.. Obviously you have both wired in parallel? The point about the quick batter disconnect tender... If they are wired together.. Could you not recharge from both the alternator,or plugging into 110 and letting the converter / or inverter charging your battery? Thanks for the info... Would love to see how you plumed the cables to the storage area.. As well any bracing to prevent that battery from moving... Thank you Dan...
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Old 09-13-2016, 12:01 PM   #5
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As it turns out, I did actually have two new batteries! The second one (to me) was behind the rear wheel. The previous owner had only shown me the one up behind the passenger front wheel. I got to wondering, perhaps this should go in another thread... when I install a battery monitor should I connect to the one up front or the one in back? Or should I go to where they connect at the charger inside the coach?
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Old 09-13-2016, 01:30 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWonder View Post
As it turns out, I did actually have two new batteries! The second one (to me) was behind the rear wheel. The previous owner had only shown me the one up behind the passenger front wheel. I got to wondering, perhaps this should go in another thread... when I install a battery monitor should I connect to the one up front or the one in back? Or should I go to where they connect at the charger inside the coach?
For the monitor you will need to combine the two negative battery cables at the shunt for the monitor. Both cables go to one end of the shunt, and a cable from the other end of the shunt would go to the van frame.
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Old 05-20-2019, 05:09 PM   #7
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Hi Bud, I have a 2006 RT and want to add a second battery before a summer road trip, can you provide me the info of what you did and used? If more convenient, my email is thevon@gmail.com. Thanks in advance. Greg.
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Old 05-20-2019, 06:15 PM   #8
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Hi Bud, I have a 2006 RT and want to add a second battery before a summer road trip, can you provide me the info of what you did and used? If more convenient, my email is thevon@gmail.com. Thanks in advance. Greg.
Hi Greg,

Last year, September 2, you inquired about this same subject. I and others responded with a bunch of stuff. It appears that after I posted, you decided to do what I did, and did not keep on reading, a guess on my part.

You missed what I could have done different, again a guess.

I'll post a link to that thread, but a little first. You 'should' have a Tripp-Lite inverter/charger, I 'should' have had one to but instead a separate dumb charger and inverter. You have more options than I had, cost wise. I went with the simplest option which has worked well for 3 years, least cost option too.

Bud

Please check out the link and return:

http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f2...tery-8202.html

Bud
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Old 05-20-2019, 08:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booster View Post
For the monitor you will need to combine the two negative battery cables at the shunt for the monitor. Both cables go to one end of the shunt, and a cable from the other end of the shunt would go to the van frame.
I don't know about the parallel negative lead arrangement on the 190, but in installations where the negative leads are common to the chassis but not common to each other, it can be difficult if not impractical to configure both negative leads to address the SOC meter shunt. Blue Sea has resolved this with an OLED SOC Model 1830 that has an internal shunt polarity shifting network that permits inserting the shunt in the paralleled common positive leads.
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Old 05-20-2019, 08:50 PM   #10
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I don't know about the parallel negative lead arrangement on the 190, but in installations where the negative leads are common to the chassis but not common to each other, it can be difficult if not impractical to configure both negative leads to address the SOC meter shunt. Blue Sea has resolved this with an OLED SOC Model 1830 that has an internal shunt polarity shifting network that permits inserting the shunt in the paralleled common positive leads.

Parallel negative cables from the batteries are no problem at all. The only thing that matters is that all negative amps go through the shunt to the batteries. Equal cable lengths are also not needed for this.



All you need to do is either extend or run new negatives from the batteries to the battery side of the shunt. The the other end of the shunt needs to pick up all the negatives from the loads, so you would have a cable from the chassis to the shunt for most of the loads and maybe the negative directly from the charger/inverter and/or solar to the shunt.


Just remember all loads one side of shunt all battery negatives to the other side. The instructions are usually pretty clear on all of this.


What is important is making sure the small wires from the shunt to the meter get on the right shunt connections or the meter will run backwards.
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