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Old 04-11-2024, 07:33 PM   #21
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I just finished checking the fuses under the Driver's Seat. Took maybe 15 minutes - once the seat was positioned correctly. Facing out the open door.

The pictuures from Meryl & Me are of a different model RT so the photo doesn't match my fuse layout. The diagram does. I also added a quick note/arrow to show the orientation of the fuse box relative to the vehicle. I used the diagram I posted for my 2008 Chevy Express. Shown here rotated to match my vehicle.

Even checked the Door unlock fuses and the TPMS. All checked GOOD. Next step - check the trailer plug and the get into the rear piller. UGHH.

Best of Luck.

Cheers - Jim
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Old 04-12-2024, 09:23 AM   #22
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Default While-I'm-At-It...

My key fob had quit working. No biggie, just use the key to lock and unlock.
As long as I had the under seat fuse box open, I checked all the fuses.

Remove and replace must have been "just the ticket." Now the Fob Works!

Now on to the rear door and pillar. May just be the bulb - that would be nice.

Cheers - Jim
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Old 04-12-2024, 12:53 PM   #23
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If you find yourself needing to get into the pillar for the tail light solution, maybe this diagram will help. It looks a bit like what booster described earlier.


Boy, I hope mine is a BULB!

Cheers - Jim
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Old 04-12-2024, 01:08 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phantomjock View Post
If you find yourself needing to get into the pillar for the tail light solution, maybe this diagram will help. It looks a bit like what booster described earlier.


Boy, I hope mine is a BULB!

Cheers - Jim

It looks like there is harness extension that just ends going down. The "4" arrow to the connector goes through it on the driver side. Perhaps that is the trailer hitch pigtail, if the factory put one in. Can't think of where else it would go. If it is maybe the module will be near it.
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Old 04-12-2024, 03:09 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booster View Post
It looks like there is harness extension that just ends going down. The "4" arrow to the connector goes through it on the driver side. Perhaps that is the trailer hitch pigtail, if the factory put one in. Can't think of where else it would go. If it is maybe the module will be near it.
booster - I think I've found it!


But to get to that part... Remove the upper trim piece:

The hardest part was forcing myself to put some muscle into it to release the clips. Had the correct tool - but my "Force Nothing" moto was flashing...
There are only 2 nuts to remove on that piece.

And to pull the lamp housing to get to the bulb sockets there are 3 nuts. All take a 10mm socket - with maybe a squirt of PB Blaster too.


With access to the bulbs - I swapped them and proved to myself the wiring was OK. Then replaced the original bulb in its position- Voila! It works. Years of surface corrosion I suspect. A bit of emory paper, some contact cleaner - and I'm off to the store to get 4 Switchback LEDs and replace the lot. Both sides.

May your experience be as rewarding!


Cheers - Jim
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Old 04-16-2024, 02:03 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Mean_Jeanne View Post
Mean_Jeanne
Mean_Jeanne Explorer II

‎Apr-07-2024 01:00 PM

Aloha all:

So our 2007 Roadtrek 170 (MJ &#128578 has a taillight (passenger side) that is out. Immediately thought bulb, so I changed that...still didn't work (later confirmed the original bulb and replacement are good), so I went to the fuse box...fuses are good too, which leads me to believe the problem with the wiring; is that a logical conclusion, or something more obvious I'm missing? I know there are many locations where wiring will have been run/spliced together; does anyone have a suggestion of where I should look specifically to isolate the problem for the passenger side taillight? Mahalo in advance.🤙

Mike
Curious if any of the advice helped? Yours and my RT are same model (170) and just a year appart. For my problem, I (believe), I isolated it to some corrosion in the socket. Could easily be a problem on either side. So I treated both. Cleaned the fuse sockets too.

Cheers - Jim
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