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Old 01-15-2024, 06:27 PM   #1
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Default Black Tank Gate Valve Replacement

Looking for some specifics/input from anyone who has replaced the black tank gate valve on their Chevy Roadtrek. Looks to be a tough job due to the fact that the upper bolts seem to be inaccessible and it is a tight squeeze in there

What valve did you buy etc...? Is it a special one that is needed so the rod can be fitted inside?

mine is dripping and in the initial stages of disintegration being 22 years old.

Thanks for any advice.
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Old 01-15-2024, 08:33 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurt Franz View Post
Looking for some specifics/input from anyone who has replaced the black tank gate valve on their Chevy Roadtrek. Looks to be a tough job due to the fact that the upper bolts seem to be inaccessible and it is a tight squeeze in there

What valve did you buy etc...? Is it a special one that is needed so the rod can be fitted inside?

mine is dripping and in the initial stages of disintegration being 22 years old.

Thanks for any advice.

That is very early Chevy, but if it is like the later ones, ours is an 07, both the valves are on the Tee fitting that the tanks go into before connecting to the dump hose. The tee and valves are one assembly but the valves can be disassembled to replace the bad parts.



Easiest way to do it probably is to replace the entire Tee fitting and valves as one piece. It should be held in place by 3 rubber couplings from the tanks and hose fitting, I think. All you will need to disconnect other than hose clamps and couplings would be the dump cables to the valves. Might as well replace both valves and be done with it.
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Old 01-15-2024, 11:40 PM   #3
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Long time ago the wizened old timers shared their secret to keeping valves operating properly. They added Zerk fittings and greased on occasion. Been doing for long time and no issues. Leak gotta be fixed but easy to add Zerk while you have it apart. [IMG][/IMG]
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Old 01-16-2024, 01:36 AM   #4
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I found that loosening the rubber coupler to the gray tank was enough to get the space to replace the valves. A normal valve will connect to the push pull valves. Been awhile but I think you just remove the handle.

The four bolts per valve can be difficult to get to but it is possible. Of course, replace both valves while you are in there.
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Old 01-16-2024, 01:45 AM   #5
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Thanks guys for responding....
Unfortunately I have no rubber couplings with hose clamps. However, I do see the T setup that you guys are mentioning...
I guess further investigation is needed
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Old 01-16-2024, 04:46 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by KurtFranz View Post
Thanks guys for responding....
Unfortunately I have no rubber couplings with hose clamps. However, I do see the T setup that you guys are mentioning...
I guess further investigation is needed
Gotta be rubber couplings there to connect the gray tank and black tank to the T. Have fun!
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Old 01-16-2024, 04:29 PM   #7
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I know that RT is different from my 97 PW but I have no rubber coupler and found that when I removed the 4 fastening bolts for the valve body (one was difficult as I recall) there was enough play in the piping to slip the valve out and the new one in.
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Old 01-16-2024, 07:56 PM   #8
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You only replace the middle of the valves and should not have to replace the flanges. Not recommending this only an example. https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T100...SABEgIG_fD_BwE
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Old 01-16-2024, 01:46 AM   #9
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This is likely the tee fitting you have in your Roadtrek.


https://valterra.com/product/ell-dou...let-no-cables/


You can also get them with an added output for cleanup and emergencies.


About $55. And a whole lot less hassle.
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