Black Tank Gate Valve Replacement

[Kurt Franz]

Looking for some specifics/input from anyone who has replaced the black tank gate valve on their Chevy Roadtrek. Looks to be a tough job due to the fact that the upper bolts seem to be inaccessible and it is a tight squeeze in there

What valve did you buy etc...? Is it a special one that is needed so the rod can be fitted inside?

mine is dripping and in the initial stages of disintegration being 22 years old.

Thanks for any advice.

[booster]

Originally Posted by Kurt Franz

Looking for some specifics/input from anyone who has replaced the black tank gate valve on their Chevy Roadtrek. Looks to be a tough job due to the fact that the upper bolts seem to be inaccessible and it is a tight squeeze in there

What valve did you buy etc...? Is it a special one that is needed so the rod can be fitted inside?

mine is dripping and in the initial stages of disintegration being 22 years old.

Thanks for any advice.

That is very early Chevy, but if it is like the later ones, ours is an 07, both the valves are on the Tee fitting that the tanks go into before connecting to the dump hose. The tee and valves are one assembly but the valves can be disassembled to replace the bad parts.



Easiest way to do it probably is to replace the entire Tee fitting and valves as one piece. It should be held in place by 3 rubber couplings from the tanks and hose fitting, I think. All you will need to disconnect other than hose clamps and couplings would be the dump cables to the valves. Might as well replace both valves and be done with it.

[jjrbus]

Long time ago the wizened old timers shared their secret to keeping valves operating properly. They added Zerk fittings and greased on occasion. Been doing for long time and no issues. Leak gotta be fixed but easy to add Zerk while you have it apart. [IMG][/IMG]

[hbn7hj]

I found that loosening the rubber coupler to the gray tank was enough to get the space to replace the valves. A normal valve will connect to the push pull valves. Been awhile but I think you just remove the handle.

The four bolts per valve can be difficult to get to but it is possible. Of course, replace both valves while you are in there.

[KurtFranz]

Thanks guys for responding....
Unfortunately I have no rubber couplings with hose clamps. However, I do see the T setup that you guys are mentioning...
I guess further investigation is needed

[booster]

This is likely the tee fitting you have in your Roadtrek.


https://valterra.com/product/ell-dou...let-no-cables/


You can also get them with an added output for cleanup and emergencies.


About $55. And a whole lot less hassle.

[hbn7hj]

Originally Posted by KurtFranz

Thanks guys for responding....
Unfortunately I have no rubber couplings with hose clamps. However, I do see the T setup that you guys are mentioning...
I guess further investigation is needed

Gotta be rubber couplings there to connect the gray tank and black tank to the T. Have fun!

[GallenH]

I know that RT is different from my 97 PW but I have no rubber coupler and found that when I removed the 4 fastening bolts for the valve body (one was difficult as I recall) there was enough play in the piping to slip the valve out and the new one in.

[jjrbus]

You only replace the middle of the valves and should not have to replace the flanges. Not recommending this only an example. https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T100...SABEgIG_fD_BwE

[GallenH]

Yes. What jjrbus said is exactly what I did.

[KurtFranz]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

You only replace the middle of the valves and should not have to replace the flanges. Not recommending this only an example. https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T100...SABEgIG_fD_BwE

That was my initial intention until I realized that it is impossible to get the top two bolts/nuts on the valve removed so that the pipes could be spread apart a bit so it could be replaced. Go figure

[otr]

It is not a fun job, but it sounds as though you are up to it. I posted about my replace it last Sept on a 2000 Dodge RT 190 V

I did both valves, the difficult bolts I removed by carefully using a right angle grinder to cut thru the corner of the valve using caution to not hit the flange.
I was amazed by how durable and well built they were when I tried to dismantle the 4 inch valterra, you really cannot.

I replaced all bolts with stainless so that when I need to do the work again in 20 years they will be easier to disassemble!

I also jacked up the front of thw van about a foot as I do t have access to a lift.

Reaching over exhaust, etc is really gymnastics and I found that multiple 3/8 socket extensions made a big difference. Vice grip on a nut or bolt also worked as a couple of bolts broke when loosening!
Good luck

[hbn7hj]

Originally Posted by KurtFranz

That was my initial intention until I realized that it is impossible to get the top two bolts/nuts on the valve removed so that the pipes could be spread apart a bit so it could be replaced. Go figure

Gotta be resourceful and not be in a position where you have to pay someone else to do it. Belly scratching time can get expensive at $140 plus an hour.

The important things like replacing bolts with stainless are not done at the RV service center.

[GroupB]

Had the same dilemma in a drain project recently. Dreading the job because of poorly accessible rusty valve bolts.

The easy solution was replacing the Tee fitting assembly including the valves.

Good access after removing the macerator shield.

As already described, three hose clamps and two allen set screws holding the cables and out it came.

Vehicle is a 2008 RT 210.

If I were just replacing one valve, I would still remove the assembly as I think it would be less total time and effort.

The rubber couplings were located at the outlets of each tank. If lines were hard plumbed, I would cut through each drain pipe (black & gray) at a convenient place and reconnect with rubber couplings at reassembly.