Dometic RM2310 to 2354 in RT 170 1997

[RT1997]

I would appreciate if Roadtrek owners share their experience in taking RM2310 fridge out and installing 2354.
Not sure if the connections at the back are the same in later models of RT 170.I made a pic. of them.
I searched online but no info on exact situation.
The general idea is clear but it could be some details.
F.i. in the only video of 2310 removal the owner had trouble with some metal thing keeping it from being pooled out ( in later model of 170).
Thank you in advance for any details.

[RT-NY]

I think that one forum member recently had out an RM2310 (https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...ion-14301.html) to fix the thermostat. Hopefully someone with a 2354 can provide some more information on that model. My 2310 needs news a new thermostat and a new swtich, but I am sticking with it. I expect that, even if the coil eventually fails, I will try to replace it rather than upgrading. Did your RM2310 stop working entirely?

[RT1997]

The fridge is still working.But a couple of years ago during normal cleaning I heard a hissing sound and found that a tiny pipe under the freezer that looks more like a wire (about 0.08 inches in diameter and just a few inhes long) is loose.I called Dometic right away.They had no idea what was that pipe for but assured me it was not freon leak.
The hissing sound stopped shortly.After that incident the freezer is not cold enough to keep an ice cream hard.The rest is ok (buttter is hard f.i.)
There is another possible damage that could appear any time. At first I did not know about the necessity of keeping the vehicle levelled and parked overnight in the driveway for a couple of months ( ticket for parking on the street).The driveway was not very steep but enough to do some damage.
The fridge also performes poorly in hot weather..

P.S. Thank you for the link.Their connections are different.
I am afraid ( after propane tank story) that 1997 was
not a good year for the RT designers )):

[RT-NY]

Well, before you replace it, it might be a good idea to think more about what kind of fridge you want. The 2310 and 2354 are both "absorption" fidges. They do not use freon -- that is for "compressor" fridges, like people have in their houses.

I do not know what that hissing you heard could have been, but I wonder if the thin pipe you saw was just the capillary tube, which runs from inside the fridge to the thermostat behind the fridge. It's long thin tube that acts like kind of a switch to control the temperature. It is longer than a few inches but only part of it is visible from inside the fridge.

It is possible that you disturbed that tube, or its location in the fridge, in such a way that the thermostat is not letting the freezer get cold enough (it's supposed to be against the fins, held in place by a thin piece of metal I think). But it is also true that, when it is very hot outside absoprtion fridges do not always get as cold as compression fridges do. But only absorption fridges can run off of propane, so it depends on how you want to use the fridge.

Regarding, leveling -- that is only an issue when the fridge is running, not when the RV is just parked and not in use.

Anyway, perhaps there isn't anything wrong with the fridge beyond needing a few adjustments.

[RT1997]

Originally Posted by RT-NY

Well, before you replace it, it might be a good idea to think more about what kind of fridge you want. The 2310 and 2354 are both "absorption" fidges. They do not use freon -- that is for "compressor" fridges, like people have in their houses.

I do not know what that hissing you heard could have been, but I wonder if the thin pipe you saw was just the capillary tube, which runs from inside the fridge to the thermostat behind the fridge. It's long thin tube that acts like kind of a switch to control the temperature. It is longer than a few inches but only part of it is visible from inside the fridge.

It is possible that you disturbed that tube, or its location in the fridge, in such a way that the thermostat is not letting the freezer get cold enough (it's supposed to be against the fins, held in place by a thin piece of metal I think). But it is also true that, when it is very hot outside absoprtion fridges do not always get as cold as compression fridges do. But only absorption fridges can run off of propane, so it depends on how you want to use the fridge.

Regarding, leveling -- that is only an issue when the fridge is running, not when the RV is just parked and not in use.

Anyway, perhaps there isn't anything wrong with the fridge beyond needing a few adjustments.

Thank you, RT-NY.
You are a wealth of knowleadge !
It is definitely the capillary tube. But it looks like it was broken or pulled out (see the pic.).That is probably how some air under high pressure made that hissing sound.
"It was not freon" - I was quoting Dometic young lady rep.
I was concerned about that sound.
When the RT was in the driveway the fridge was working on propane.I found about the levelling probably just in time.It is 9+ years since then.But some damage most likely happened.
There is another reason I would like to get a new fridge.
It might not be available later ( like there is no cooktop available for direct replacement - a major cabinets modification required).
In general I would rather have 2 way fridge (2351) since 12v is pretty useless if you have just 1 house battery.
But I decided to have as exact replacement model as possible.

[hbn7hj]

Originally Posted by RT1997

In general I would rather have 2 way fridge (2351) since 12v is pretty useless if you have just 1 house battery.
But I decided to have as exact replacement model as possible.

Not true. Twelve volt is only used with the engine running and has nothing to do with battery size.

[GallenH]

RT1997: I can't tell by your pic if the end of the capillary tube is broken off or if it is still intact. I replaced thermostat and the instructions do warn you to be careful not to damage the tube (which you should see running out of the fridge back and down to the bottom of the fridge where the thermostat is). You can't replace the tube alone if it's broken; you have to replace the entire thermostat.

RT-NY: So my thermostat replacement is working in both electrical and gas modes. What I want to add is when you get to the thermostat to replace it, you also have good access to the switch. The bottom of the switch are has a cover that you have to remove to easily get to the thermostat. Once off it's a simple mechanism, completely exposed for cleaning. I used a healthy amount of electrical contact cleaner and then a slight bit of silicone on the areas that the shaft rubs. Very smooth action now and, of course, the thermostat is smooth as it's new.
Fuel selector switch.jpg
Clip at very top connects to gas valve to open valve whan in "GAS" position. Electrical contacts for 120v and 12v on exposed area of switch below.

[RT-NY]

Originally Posted by RT1997

Thank you, RT-NY.
You are a wealth of knowleadge !
It is definitely the capillary tube. But it looks like it was broken or pulled out (see the pic.).That is probably how some air under high pressure made that hissing sound.
"It was not freon" - I was quoting Dometic young lady rep.
I was concerned about that sound.
When the RT was in the driveway the fridge was working on propane.I found about the levelling probably just in time.It is 9+ years since then.But some damage most likely happened.
There is another reason I would like to get a new fridge.
It might not be available later ( like there is no cooktop available for direct replacement - a major cabinets modification required).
In general I would rather have 2 way fridge (2351) since 12v is pretty useless if you have just 1 house battery.
But I decided to have as exact replacement model as possible.

I think the capillary tube has fluid it in but only a small amount; the fliud expands/contracts with temperature and that switches the termostat on or off. The tube might be broken, but if so I think that the fridge would not cool at all or would get too cold, so it might have just fell down a bit from where it should be and because it is colder lower down the thermostat turns off too soon and so the freezer doesn't get as cold. Also, the tube can be replaced (it is part of the thermostat, as in the picture here: https://www.amazon.com/M-C-Enterprz-.../dp/B01BKPVUNO) Have you tried setting the temperature dial all the way to max?

I think that the kind of damage that running out of level causes would result either in intermittent or complete failure to cool rather than less efficient cooling.

About the connections of the 2310 versus the 2354: I guess they would both require the same thing--12 volts, 120 volts, and propane. The biggest concern would be where the propane line runs and if it will line up correctly. The wires should be easy to deal with.

[hbn7hj]

You will need to provide 15 amps of 12 volt DC (30 amp fuse). The 2310 has no electrical connection. Beyond that it is just a matter of hooking up the propane.

[Fernando Damasceno]

Originally Posted by RT1997

I would appreciate if Roadtrek owners share their experience in taking RM2310 fridge out and installing 2354.
Not sure if the connections at the back are the same in later models of RT 170.I made a pic. of them.
I searched online but no info on exact situation.
The general idea is clear but it could be some details.
F.i. in the only video of 2310 removal the owner had trouble with some metal thing keeping it from being pooled out ( in later model of 170).
Thank you in advance for any details.

I removed the original refrigerator and replaced it with one from Best Buy. It only works at 120V. I have no regrets, a new one is more efficient. I would like to know if someone took one 120V, and converted it into a 12V. My RV is 2005 - Roadtreck 190 with a Chevy platform.

[RT1997]

Fernando,did you have 2310 model ?
If you did I'd appreciate any details of taking it out.

[GallenH]

I think you're asking if someone has converted it to run on 12v battery power? Because obviously if you were running a generator you wouldn't need any conversion. The simplest one I believe would be to run it off an inverter. You probably would need to check the amp draw of the fridge/inverter combo. Then determine how much battery capacity you need. So a fridge drawing 5A running 40% of the time would run 9.6hrs in a day times 5A = 48AH. One 100AH battery would give you about a days worth (assuming you don't have lithium, which would give you more).