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Old 10-21-2021, 11:02 AM   #1
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Default Changing Shocks???

When I bought my Roadtrek 97 Dodge 190 Popular last spring it had the original shocks my mechanic changed the front shocks but would not change the rear as the bolts were too close to waterlines and the fibreglass floor box he was scared that the bolt would break and he would not be able to cut them out. I have the shocks and have changed shocks in other vehicles.
Is this an issue??? I really don't want to get halfway through and not be able to continue.
Have any of you had any issues changing the rear shocks?
Thanks
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Old 10-31-2021, 05:01 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by CanuckRV View Post
When I bought my Roadtrek 97 Dodge 190 Popular last spring it had the original shocks my mechanic changed the front shocks but would not change the rear as the bolts were too close to waterlines and the fibreglass floor box he was scared that the bolt would break and he would not be able to cut them out. I have the shocks and have changed shocks in other vehicles.
Is this an issue??? I really don't want to get halfway through and not be able to continue.
Have any of you had any issues changing the rear shocks?
Thanks
On my 94C210P I soaked the shock bolts with liquid wrench for a few weeks about a spray a week for three weeks while I was waiting on the shocks to arrive and had no trouble undoing them ,I am not sure of the dodge set up is it bolts and nuts or stud and nut
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Old 10-31-2021, 09:34 PM   #3
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it'll be case by case


my old Arizona vehicles are completely rust free underneath and i'm not dealing with rust, frozen bolts or undercoating


as you know a CDN vehicle can be a total mess in 7 years



you'd have to see what is going on under there- did the tech even take a look or did they beg off in advance


On my chev the front shocks took about 30 minutes for both including gather the jacks and tools.


the rears took longer as jacking is more deliberate & I need to keep climbing out for a different extension or tool to get around tanks or water lines. but no big deal


in your case a spray penetrating oil is probably a must



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Old 10-31-2021, 09:43 PM   #4
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From all I have seen in posts here and elsewhere, the Dodges are much tougher to get at for the rear upper shock bolts, than the later Chevies which are not cake either sometimes. Lots of shops appear to not want to tackle it because of the tanks, clearances, rust, etc.


I use PB Blaster and Kroil to soak bolts and some still break. Best is a torch, but there are a lot of areas that doing the torch is not safe. The biggest thing is if the the broken bolts have adequate access to get them out, which can be a tough thing on some applications.


It sounds like this mechanic may have taken one before that turned out to be a money losing job.
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Old 11-02-2021, 10:40 PM   #5
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Default Roadtrek Shock Installation

I personally installed Bilsteins both front and rear on my 1994 Dodge Roadtrek versatile 190.
I can understand your mechanic not wanting to tackle the rears. The problem is that the upper shock bolt nuts are so close to the shower pan that there is very little room to maneuver. You would have to have world's tiniest and longest fingers to get in there manually. To make things easier, I used a 1 1/2" hole-saw and from the interior, drilled holes through the side of the shower pan centred directly over the shock bolt nut. OK, how do you determine exactly where the centre of the shock nut is located? I did my best to carefully measure, from underneath the van, where the centre of the shock nut is located on the side of the shower pan. Next I transferred these measurements to the interior of the shower pan (taking into account the thickness of the shower pan wall). Even so, to be sure of exact placement, I drilled a 1/2" starter hole to see precisely where the 1 1/2" hole would have to be located. Drill the 1 1/2" hole, use a long socket and remove the shock nut. You can take it from here. Plug the 1 1/2" hole with a hole plug and use sealer to make the hole waterproof.
My Roadtrek is a Versatile and the shower pan may differ from your Popular. If there is resistance in removing the nut, things really get difficult. I used to live and had my Roadtrek in Ontario and know that seized bolts and nuts can be a problem. Take the advice of others and soak the upper shock bolt/nut over several days to make removal as problem free as possible.
I don't have to remind you that this is not the time of year to be doing this outside in Ontario.

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