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Old 08-16-2019, 03:59 AM   #1
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Default 2016 Travato 59G House Battery Replacement

Q1. I may need new house batteries for 2016 59G. Other than removing batteries and taking them to store for testing, what is best way to test while still mounted under the 59G?
Q2. If need new house batteries, is it best to replace with identical NAPA batteries or are there better alternatives?
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Old 08-16-2019, 07:51 PM   #2
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Q1. I may need new house batteries for 2016 59G. Other than removing batteries and taking them to store for testing, what is best way to test while still mounted under the 59G?
Q2. If need new house batteries, is it best to replace with identical NAPA batteries or are there better alternatives?
Q2. NAPA doesn't manufacture batteries. They are made by Deka or Exide. A cost effective alternative is a Costco Interstate AGM battery. Their warranty is valid at any Costco in the country.
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Old 08-16-2019, 10:19 PM   #3
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I have found NAPA to be a decent place to buy decent DECA AGMs (branded NAPA as per above). Very handy and the warranty is good at any NAPA in the country. There is no need to stick with NAPA, but they are a good choice, In my experience.
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Old 08-17-2019, 04:33 AM   #4
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q2

Q2. NAPA doesn't manufacture batteries. They are made by Deka or Exide. A cost effective alternative is a Costco Interstate AGM battery. Their warranty is valid at any Costco in the country.
Thank you for the suggestion, however, turns out that I was at Costco today. The folks in the tire and battery department told me that Costco does not sell AGM batteries. I'm likely to purchase Duracell house batteries from either Sam's Club (less expensive but only 18 month full replacement warranty) or Batteries Plus (30 month full replacement warranty and far more stores across the U.S.) The NAPA batteries are considerably more expensive, approaching the cost of Lifeline AGM batteries, and have only a 12 month pro-rated replacement warranty.
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Old 08-17-2019, 05:44 AM   #5
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Have you check Fullriver batteries, my experience with them is excellent for the last six years. https://www.fullriverbattery.com/dc-series-batteries/
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Old 08-22-2019, 07:06 PM   #6
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Thank you for the suggestion, however, turns out that I was at Costco today. The folks in the tire and battery department told me that Costco does not sell AGM batteries. I'm likely to purchase Duracell house batteries from either Sam's Club (less expensive but only 18 month full replacement warranty) or Batteries Plus (30 month full replacement warranty and far more stores across the U.S.) The NAPA batteries are considerably more expensive, approaching the cost of Lifeline AGM batteries, and have only a 12 month pro-rated replacement warranty.
I saw AGM battery at my Local Costco this week (Kingston Ont) and it appears that Costco has AGM (group 24) on the Costco.ca website: https://www.costco.ca/Energizer-24F-...100404760.html
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Old 08-24-2019, 06:36 PM   #7
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Q1. I may need new house batteries for 2016 59G. Other than removing batteries and taking them to store for testing, what is best way to test while still mounted under the 59G? ...

Pardon me while I hijack this thread, but Q1 was about how to test house batteries, and no one has addressed it, and I am in a similar predicament with a similar question. The difference is that my 2007 RT Pop190 has a pair of flooded Interstate SRM-27 lead acids that I think are finito (Yes, my fault, I just don't think to check fluid levels, especially not in the Connecticut winter. Last time I checked, plates were exposed.) but a service tech in the area thought were fine - after he replaced a corroded contact under the hood - just needing charging. After several days on shore power, I still doubt that one or both are healthy and charging up - viz. after unplugging 120v, fridge can light up on gas, but subsequent cycling fails, gas won't light and fridge stops. Back on 120v and gas stays lit indefinitely. Opinions? Tests?

Q2 is whether a lazy slob like me should switch to zero maintenance AGM's like all the rest of you seem to have done. I just don't like to check fluids in the cold or when I'm on the move (which is most days). For a minimum system of 2 batteries - I'm not curious about how the batteries are doing today, I just want the fridge to be cold. (Right, I should get a compressor job - maybe next year, if the Dometic dies.) Q3 What else do I need to change to be a happy AGM user? Possible complication: Years ago when I was fleeing Winter racing to Yuma, my Tripplite PowerVerter died. The RV tech would have to order one in, but he did have in stock an Intellipower PD9140A Power Converter (no 12v DC to 120v AC! but he said what AC appliance could you run for long on your house battery, anyway, and you do have your Onan for that!) I had no ready argument - I'm sure you guys can provide one), So I had it put in and everything seemed to be simpatico. Will it get along with the AGMs? Possibly pertinent: We have in the house an Autocraft XC-103 100 Amp Charger (3 modes: trickle, fast, and engine start) as well as a number of test meters (not mine). Q4 NOW, what are good brands? (I'm not one of Sam's or Costco's boys, but there's a NAPA in the area.

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Old 08-24-2019, 07:12 PM   #8
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Pardon me while I hijack this thread, but Q1 was about how to test house batteries, and no one has addressed it, and I am in a similar predicament with a similar question. The difference is that my 2007 RT Pop190 has a pair of flooded Interstate SRM-27 lead acids that I think are finito (Yes, my fault, I just don't think to check fluid levels, especially not in the Connecticut winter. Last time I checked, plates were exposed.) but a service tech in the area thought were fine - after he replaced a corroded contact under the hood - just needing charging. After several days on shore power, I still doubt that one or both are healthy and charging up - viz. after unplugging 120v, fridge can light up on gas, but subsequent cycling fails, gas won't light and fridge stops. Back on 120v and gas stays lit indefinitely. Opinions? Tests?

I don't have a compressor fridge, but I'd bet on a propane problem since the batteries do light. But what causes you to suspect your batteries are done?


Q2 is whether a lazy slob like me should switch to zero maintenance AGM's like all the rest of you seem to have done. I just don't like to check fluids in the cold or when I'm on the move (which is most days). For a minimum system of 2 batteries - I'm not curious about how the batteries are doing today, I just want the fridge to be cold. (Right, I should get a compressor job - maybe next year, if the Dometic dies.) Q3 What else do I need to change to be a happy AGM user? Possible complication: Years ago when I was fleeing Winter racing to Yuma, my Tripplite PowerVerter died. The RV tech would have to order one in, but he did have in stock an Intellipower PD9140A Power Converter (no 12v DC to 120v AC! but he said what AC appliance could you run for long on your house battery, anyway, and you do have your Onan for that!) I had no ready argument - I'm sure you guys can provide one), So I had it put in and everything seemed to be simpatico. Will it get along with the AGMs? Possibly pertinent: We have in the house an Autocraft XC-103 100 Amp Charger (3 modes: trickle, fast, and engine start) as well as a number of test meters (not mine). Q4 NOW, what are good brands? (I'm not one of Sam's or Costco's boys, but there's a NAPA in the area.

You sound like a perfect candidate for no-maintenance AGM's.


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Hijacking a thread back to its' original topic. I . . . I . . . , well I never heard of such a thing. MODERATOR! MODERATOR!

At first, I thought that's what you were doing. But then I see you added your fridge questions, so we're back to normal.
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Old 08-24-2019, 08:26 PM   #9
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Hijacking a thread back to its' original topic. I . . . I . . . , well I never heard of such a thing. MODERATOR! MODERATOR!
Don't worry, he'll step in to get it back off topic any minute now.
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Old 08-24-2019, 10:11 PM   #10
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Somebody said: I don't have a compressor fridge, but I'd bet on a propane problem since the batteries do light. But what causes you to suspect your batteries are done?

Yes, they spark the gas once, immediately after unplugging AC. But if you switch off the fridge they won't light it again. Even seconds later, all you see is a brief flicker of the top "coldest" LED, than darkness. The propane tank is full, the water heater works, the Onan can run for hours, and I can brew up my "Special" on the stove. But, in the end, my technical retardation leads me to just switch on the display panel above the Onan switch. On AC or Onan I get 4 big LED's every time. Unplugged, I get one. I realize that there is some battery power in one or both lead acids. Fans and lights do run, but not at maximum AC power. One may be still good; I just don't know. Hence my request for a critical test. The propane system tested OK for leaks by the same guy who said the batteries were OK. What can you think of that might make gas the culprit?
The same guy said: You sound like a perfect candidate for no-maintenance AGM's.
Just the encouragement I needed! Let it be!


Then a guy had the NERVE to say: At first, I thought that's what you were doing. But then I see you added your fridge questions, so we're back to normal.


I mentioned the fridge as a TEST of the battery issue. I threw in "compressor" to forestall a debate about fridge technology!
You can be cruel, Rowie! You're hereby suspended from 1% Macerators Sunday rides until you turn in at least two more "A Gravity" puke scalps! Tomorrow we're harassing a certain guy in Minnesota with a big mouth.
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