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Old 03-14-2019, 07:38 PM   #21
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Another issue that would show this kind of issue is if the neutral and ground are bonded upstream, which they aren't supposed to be, but we have heard of that error also. That way the neutral and ground share the load on the negative side so they see less current.
But even in this scenario, if appliance malfunction was the cause, both
black hot leads should show similar damage.

From what I understand, the inverter side works fine and the shoreside input is open at the burned terminal which IMO is repairable. With a thousand dollars involved in a replacement, as you suggest, bypassing the trashed terminal is worth a shot.,
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Old 03-14-2019, 07:39 PM   #22
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I think Victron is based in the Netherlands. Samlex America is domestic Canadian but made all over the world, IIRC.
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Old 03-14-2019, 08:11 PM   #23
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I have a 2018 Banff, which is also made by Hymer. You said that you plugged in and then turned on the inverter. That won't work with the Banff; you get no power. You have to turn on the inverter before you plug in to get shore power. That is mentioned in my owner's manual, but I missed it on my first trip when my power kept going out because I plugged in first. So, I suspect that if you turn on the inverter before plugging in, that may solve your problem. If so, it's an easy fix that costs nothing. If you forget and plug in first, you can just unplug and then plug in again with the inverter on.
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Old 03-14-2019, 08:45 PM   #24
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I missed the photos attached to post 13 also - no point in trying to get it to work until at least the obvious issue is fixed.

20190307_105243.jpg

A high resistance black lead connection that cruising7388 noted would seem to be the cause. The damage seems to have occurred at the internal wiring side first. It may have burned up the transfer switch internally also.

As Booster noted, we've seen photos of a Roadtrek inverter with a terminal block melted like that before.

Yellow romex - is that 12 gauge 20 amp? Shouldn't it be 10 gauge on a 30A coach?
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Old 03-14-2019, 09:05 PM   #25
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I just blew up and brightened the pic a bit, and it looks like the hot side was the connection to the inverter, not the wiring, as it is much more burnt on the non Romex side. That would be a very good place to start and potentially jumper out the damage to see if the inverter is really fried or not.
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Old 03-14-2019, 09:26 PM   #26
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Thank guys for all the input and comments.
The wires are #10 solid ( just standard romex building wire) as you know good for the 30 AMP.
Yes, everything on the 12 VDC works fine, lights, Refrigerator, water pump.
I still plug in the shore power as the inverter receives the 110 Volt input. I turn it on to keep the batteries charged, all four.

On my unit as you know, when shore power is plugged in you have to have the inverter on to get any 110 Volt output or even have the Ecotek system charge the batteries. I never liked that the inverter had to be on when shore power was plugged in to have the outlets working or any of the appliances.


The way RT design has it, when plugged into shore power you have no use of any 110 Volt output, unless the inverter is on. That at times can be an inconvenience.


We where experiencing cold weather in the early mornings and nights, ranging from high 20's to low 30's. So at night I would set the Alde
Electric heater on and the water heater to keep from freezing. That is the only equipment used when this problem occurred. I have done this in the past many times and never had a problem when traveling.

Chris is right RT certainly would not replace with a quality inverter/charger. Looking at the Magnum MSH3012. I am sure they stopped using my Microgreen inverter when they found a cheaper one to install in their units. I am told they went with the KS2 3000 Watt inverter/charger which sells for MSRP $635.

When you compare that to the Magnum at $1900. Again there are other inverter makers out there for some cost savings that compare to the Magnum. One dealer I called said they replace with Magnum. The Aims 3000 Watt pure sine wave inverter/charger goes for $870
Called another dealer and they would use the KS2 installed for $1,700.




Thanks Posters,
Steve
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Old 03-14-2019, 09:30 PM   #27
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I just blew up and brightened the pic a bit, and it looks like the hot side was the connection to the inverter, not the wiring, as it is much more burnt on the non Romex side. That would be a very good place to start and potentially jumper out the damage to see if the inverter is really fried or not.

Might give that a try. Even with my old eyes and not very flexable body. Worth a try. Just in a lousy spot to work on. Might have to pull out some furniture to get at it.

Steve
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Old 03-14-2019, 10:34 PM   #28
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Thank guys for all the input and comments.
The wires are #10 solid ( just standard romex building wire) as you know good for the 30 AMP.
Yes, everything on the 12 VDC works fine, lights, Refrigerator, water pump.
I still plug in the shore power as the inverter receives the 110 Volt input. I turn it on to keep the batteries charged, all four.

On my unit as you know, when shore power is plugged in you have to have the inverter on to get any 110 Volt output or even have the Ecotek system charge the batteries. I never liked that the inverter had to be on when shore power was plugged in to have the outlets working or any of the appliances.


The way RT design has it, when plugged into shore power you have no use of any 110 Volt output, unless the inverter is on. That at times can be an inconvenience.


We where experiencing cold weather in the early mornings and nights, ranging from high 20's to low 30's. So at night I would set the Alde
Electric heater on and the water heater to keep from freezing. That is the only equipment used when this problem occurred. I have done this in the past many times and never had a problem when traveling.

Chris is right RT certainly would not replace with a quality inverter/charger. Looking at the Magnum MSH3012. I am sure they stopped using my Microgreen inverter when they found a cheaper one to install in their units. I am told they went with the KS2 3000 Watt inverter/charger which sells for MSRP $635.

When you compare that to the Magnum at $1900. Again there are other inverter makers out there for some cost savings that compare to the Magnum. One dealer I called said they replace with Magnum. The Aims 3000 Watt pure sine wave inverter/charger goes for $870
Called another dealer and they would use the KS2 installed for $1,700.




Thanks Posters,
Steve
There are some potential issues with replacing the Powerstar inverter. For starters, different cable connection points of the replacement can cause a problem. Also the cable to the inverter remote has to be compatible with the replacement format. Some remote cables are 4 CDX Telco to RJ11 receptacles. Some use 8 CDX Telco to RJ45 Receptacles. Some may even use CAT5/6.

IMO unless sufficient heat from the burned terminal migrated to the innards, I think that the electricals are intact and the connection terminals can be replaced. It's worth checking before trashing it.

That said, there are some not so terrific features with this unit as installed:

1. As you mentioned, the inverter has to be on in order for the battery charger to operate. Consequently, if the inverter fails, you don't have a functioning battery charger. Better designs may physically integrate the inverter and charger but they are electrically independent and the failure of one mode doesn't cripple the other mode.

2. While, the charger is capable of delivering 100 amps, RT programs it for 36 amps maximum to avoid beaker tripping. Better chargers can account for varying coach appliance demands and adjust the charging rate to prevent chronic breaker tripping.

3. The charger has a temp sense port but it's not implemented on multiple battery etreks which depending on their location, may have batteries with different temperatures.
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Old 03-14-2019, 10:52 PM   #29
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There are some potential issues with replacing the Powerstar inverter. For starters, different cable connection points of the replacement can cause a problem. Also the cable to the inverter remote has to be compatible with the replacement format. Some remote cables are 4 CDX Telco to RJ11 receptacles. Some use 8 CDX Telco to RJ45 Receptacles. Some may even use CAT5/6.

IMO unless sufficient heat from the burned terminal migrated to the innards, I think that the electricals are intact and the connection terminals can be replaced. It's worth checking before trashing it.

That said, there are some not so terrific features with this unit as installed:

1. As you mentioned, the inverter has to be on in order for the battery charger to operate. Consequently, if the inverter fails, you don't have a functioning battery charger. Better designs may physically integrate the inverter and charger but they are electrically independent and the failure of one mode doesn't cripple the other mode.

2. While, the charger is capable of delivering 100 amps, RT programs it for 36 amps maximum to avoid beaker tripping. Better chargers can account for varying coach appliance demands and adjust the charging rate to prevent chronic breaker tripping.

3. The charger has a temp sense port but it's not implemented on multiple battery etreks which depending on their location, may have batteries with different temperatures.
Cruising,

That's one of the problems for me right now is the remote compatible on the replacement inverter. That is where RT would come in if they where still around. The three dealers I called could not answer that question. As one said we usually get our input on equipment and install guidance through RT tech support.


Will check out the connection terminal.


1. The inverter is still charging the batteries.

2.Would have to find the best charging rate to set the inverter properly.

3. I do not think the Microgreen has a temp sensor. I see some of the inverters that I looked at have that option for battery heat sensing.

Steve
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Old 03-14-2019, 10:58 PM   #30
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Is it common for Roadtrek to use solid copper wires? My previous RV was wired with stranded AC and DC, my current is all marine style.
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